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Old 2017.01.09, 07:23 PM   #16
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All good tips from those that posted.

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Old 2017.02.17, 11:36 AM   #17
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Sorry it took so long to respond. I have been taking my time with the setup changes and so far I seem to have a lot less push. I did each change one at a time and with each run it felt better and better. Thank you everyone for the help! I will keep updating this with any other issues that come up.
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Old 2017.02.17, 01:18 PM   #18
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If you don't have a top shock, you may want to consider adding one. A standard one will do, you are really just looking to add spring to the rear end to keep more mass on the front end when you get on throttle. Since you are already damping the rear end with a disc damper, an oil shock isn't as necessary as if you were not using a disc damper (tri damper). Take on mind that the more mass you transfer to the front on throttle, the less will be in the rear, which will translate to less traction in the rear.

Check out the 1/12 setup guide here: http://www.petitrc.com/index.php?/setupguide.html/
Although this is written for 1/12 scale cars, it translates well in theory for mini-z 2wd since there are many similarities between the setup of 2wd mini-z and 1/12 pan car.

In the section where it talks about side spring and center spring... You can think of that as t-plate options, since the t-plate covers both lateral and longitudinal support for the rear end of the chassis.

Side spring would relate to how stiff the t-plate is at twisting. Typically, a wider t-plate would equate to a stiffer side spring.

The thickness of the material would equate to center spring. In general, we don't have many options In this department. Generally there are only thick carbon like 3racing or reflex racing t-plate, thin carbon like Kyosho/PN/Atomic, or thin frp. I prefer the thin frp, and use a top shock to be able to fine tune the longitudinal spring rate with a spring that can be adjusted with spring rate (different spring), preload, and throw/down travel. This allows me to place my rear end exactly where I want it to be to transfer weight predictably.

Things that aren't touched on much there are the differences in body choice that mini-z has, and how much that changes handling and setup choices. Center of mass has a huge effect on how the cars handle, as does the overhang of the body past the wheel axles.

The body that you are using has a very large rear overhang, which means that you need more spring in the rear to compensate the additional mass. Spring ratio f/r is relative to mass ratio.

As always, if you have questions, ask away...
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Last edited by EMU; 2017.02.17 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 2017.02.17, 05:36 PM   #19
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Seems like my body is kind of holding the car back. Do you have any 94mm or 98mm bodies that you prefer?
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Old 2017.02.17, 06:01 PM   #20
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I really like the 599XX Ferrari. That with a PN Lexan rear wing. That is a 98mm body but you can run +3 rims all the way around it so it is really wide and stable. It is also very good in the way that it does not pull you into the side rails much if you hit them. If you notice that you get pulled into the side rails you can also switch to a +2.5 front rim and that will help also.
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Old 2017.02.17, 06:48 PM   #21
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Seems like my body is kind of holding the car back. Do you have any 94mm or 98mm bodies that you prefer?
If you want to stay with 94MM, try the F430. My favorite 94 body.
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Old 2017.02.17, 07:02 PM   #22
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When choosing a body, there are a bunch of things to consider. Overhang past the axles as I mentioned above are a concern, but there are many variables to consider when choosing a body.

The Ferrari 599xx that Mike posted above is a good body for many reasons. However, I don't like how it drives. One thing that is important to me is the position of the cab (windshield).

I tend to prefer a cab forward design, with the windshield closer to the front wheels. To me, this puts more of th mass and down force on the front wheels and makes it a little more aggressive. The slight increase in front traction allows me to use slightly harder front tires for a similar amount of corner grip, therefore giving the feeling of more consistency.

With that said, other variables are wheel clearance, and ability to use wide offsets, mass of the body, aero grip, center of gravity.... But one of the most important factors for a race body is how it handles collisions and if it snags on the track divider. There are some bodies that are fast, but will snag the walls of get very unsettled with a side to side collision.

Some bodies run better with slower motors, others with faster motors. So, the class that you are racing should have an effect on body choice.

Many of the common go to race bodies, some/many may no longer be available:

94mm
Ferrari 360gtc
Ferrari f50
Ferrari f430gt
F430
F360
Lexus sc430
Corvette c5r
Nissan 350z (2005/2007 racing versions)

98mm
McLaren short tail (stock class)
McLaren 12c
Ferrari 458
Ferrari la Ferrari
Mosler (one of the most versatile bodies, and my pick for new racers)
Long McLaren good for mod on sweeping layout
Murcielago / lp670 good for low traction, generates a lot of grip

There are others, but this is just a ballpark
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Old 2017.02.22, 11:15 AM   #23
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Ive been looking at the 458 GT2 body. Dont know if I want to go 98mm or try 96mm. Any thoughts?
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Old 2017.02.22, 11:18 AM   #24
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If you want to stay with 94MM, try the F430. My favorite 94 body.
Does it get hung up on the track barriers?
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Old 2017.02.22, 11:35 AM   #25
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Does it get hung up on the track barriers?
In my experience, the F430 is one of the many bodies that tend to get wedged under the rails on RCP. The front splitter is a mixed blessing. Definitely makes the body more rigid/durable, but the aforementioned "wedge" issue can be frustrating during a race. Some people grind it off but then I'd want to reinforce the front inside of the body shell.
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Old 2017.02.22, 11:58 AM   #26
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Does it get hung up on the track barriers?
I have no lip on mine and it's one of the best on the rails.
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Old 2017.02.22, 12:00 PM   #27
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In my experience, the F430 is one of the many bodies that tend to get wedged under the rails on RCP. The front splitter is a mixed blessing. Definitely makes the body more rigid/durable, but the aforementioned "wedge" issue can be frustrating during a race. Some people grind it off but then I'd want to reinforce the front inside of the body shell.
Are you sure you don't mean the 360gt body? I would have to look but I don't remember a front lip on f430 gt body.
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Old 2017.02.22, 01:24 PM   #28
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Are you sure you don't mean the 360gt body? I would have to look but I don't remember a front lip on f430 gt body.
Hah, you are absolutely right! I've long since sold the body but I went and looked at a picture of it and compared it to a body guide and I absolutely had the F360, while all this while I thought it was the 430.

Shows what I know! Looks like the F430 would be the better choice.
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Old 2017.02.22, 02:26 PM   #29
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Heres another question for you guys. I was reading some of EMU's posts and it sounds like 96mm setups are more stable than the 94mm setup im running. My JGTC GTR is tail heavy (thanks EMU!) so Im after a new body. I want a 94mm body and really like the F430 GT body. What body do you guys have for your 96mm setups? Would the F430 GT body be a good pick?
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Old 2017.02.22, 04:04 PM   #30
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96mm is good on 94mm bodies with longer rear ends, and 98mm bodies worth shorter rear ends. The 430gt has a relatively short rear end at 94mm, which I preferred to use in 94mm compared to 96mm. The rear felt a little light at 96mm.

94 bodies at 96, I like the f50, 360gtc, 2005/07 350z race... in general bodies that had a pushy feeling on throttle at 94mm. You could try the r34 gt and see how you like it at 96mm.

I feel that 96mm for me is better suited for sweeping layouts where 94mm better suited to point and shoot layouts where you want maximum traction exiting the corners. When you extend the wheelbase on 2wd mini-z, you ate essentially moving the weight ratio more towards the front wheels. Which gives more steering at the expense of rear traction with all other variables held constant.
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