2017.01.12, 02:31 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Near Bristol, UK
Posts: 4
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MB-010S motor upgrade
I just got one of the Inferno Sports buggies. I have to say it is so slow, much worse than I expected and a lot slower than the on-road Mini-Z cars I have owned and driven before. Definitely need more speed but unclear about exactly what is needed to achieve this reliably. There's plenty of talk about changing over to the ASF set up but that's expensive and I am happy with the radio system I have with this car and the servo. I would prefer to solder in some new FETs (seems FDS8858CZ are the ideal part) and upgrade the motor. Not seen anything about doing this on the Sports board though, although on inspection it doesn't seem like it would be hard, there are 4x 3010 MOSFETs on the board as standard.
So, if I went for say, a Kyosho X-Speed motor, would I be able to run it on the stock electronics, and supposing not, can I just replace the 4 FETs and go for it then? I would like to get the buggy running more like a scaled down 1/10th buggy as I really got it to keep my skills in when I can't race the bigger cars, so it would be good to have closer handling characteristics under power.
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2017.01.12, 02:59 PM
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#2
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Redline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Greater Vancouver, B.C.
Posts: 218
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If the buggy has 3010 FETs by default, you should be able to run the Xspeed motor but I'd be conservative with the gearing. Keep a close eye on how hot the motor gets too. If you really want to put some power down though, I'd upgrade both the FETs and chassis wiring (go for 22or 20 Ga silicone wire if it will fit) and also invest in a motor heat sink since the buggy is fairly heavy and the drivetrain spins on a lot more bearings than a 2WD Mini-Z.
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2017.01.12, 03:02 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 6,877
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if the board had 4 x 3010's than you should be fine to drop in a hotter motor without much issue. the ASF board also has the 4 x 3010's and most of our club is running PN33T, some have a 39T and run it with no problem. they do get hotter so keep that in mind and don't over gear.
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2017.01.12, 03:08 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Near Bristol, UK
Posts: 4
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Guys, thanks for the replies. Guess I'll just upgrade the motor first then - easy. Funny thinking about motor heat. After a constant run over 10mins on the stock setup the standard motor is stone cold. Absolutely zero heat, just as if it had not run. Is this right? Because I can't believe many people would be happy with the speed I am seeing either, I wonder if something is preventing this car getting full power.
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2017.01.12, 03:13 PM
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#5
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Redline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Greater Vancouver, B.C.
Posts: 218
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Kyosho always puts the highest gear ratio available on Ready Set vehicles. Try gearing it up a few ratios and see if that improves the speed.
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2017.01.12, 06:00 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 74
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I have an xspeed on mine and it runs plenty fast enough for me. TBH I never tried the stock setup, but xspeed on the stock gearing runs great.
It has to be asked though - are your batteries just cycled out?
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2017.01.13, 07:43 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 6,877
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I wasn't happy with the speed I was getting when stock either. we tried some of our jumps and it just wasn't enough pop to clear them. the X-speed would be a step up for sure.
depending on how you are using the buggy you might even want a little more than the x-speed has. get to much power in there and you'll blow the stock diffs, going with the ball diff is the way to go when that happens.
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2017.01.13, 09:51 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Near Bristol, UK
Posts: 4
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Cool, good info here.
I have checked a couple of sets of (both known good) batteries and can't see much difference. I'm building a small off-road track in my back garden, and messing about with it in my house too. If I break anything mechanical, that's no too much of an issue as I'm really into making parts and I've heard about diffs and drive shaft pins breaking on the higher powered set ups. Those are upgrades I'll gladly make if and when needed.
Regarding the motor, I am seeing 2 X-Speed motors with different part numbers but both called the same. One blue text on the label, one red. Any difference? Part numbers MZW301 and MDW023.
Last edited by LongRat; 2017.01.13 at 10:12 AM.
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2017.01.13, 11:51 AM
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#9
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Redline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Greater Vancouver, B.C.
Posts: 218
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The difference is where the PTC and noise suppression capacitors are added. I think the Blue motor will be the one you want but check the manual.
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2017.01.14, 05:55 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 74
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if you guys are adding some real power, i highly recommend the hardened pinion gears for the drive shaft. The plastic ones will distort and fail after prolonged use. Kyosho makes a brass front pinion and alloy rear.
As for diffs, I found that the ball diff comes out of adjustment when used on the rear axle - when you jump and remain on the throttle to keep the buggy level--you of course land on the rear tires. Despite the slipper being there, the diff eventually gets unwound and starts "diffing out" (read: buggy goes almost fwd mode due to rear diff slippage). I actually ended up running a ball diff up front and the reinforced gear diff out back. No issues. The reinforced gear diff has metal spider gears internally, along with hardened out-drives.
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2017.01.15, 09:39 AM
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#11
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RCP Me!!
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Goodrich MI
Posts: 134
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I would skip the X-Speed motor, and get a PN 50T ball bearing motor. Much faster than stock, without a whole lot of extra stress on the FET's and drive line.
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Helifar
Kyosho
Goodrich RC Club
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2017.01.16, 07:45 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NYC
Posts: 46
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I have a brushless one with the 8200kv motor with about 3 hours on it and my diffs are holding up so far. I was fully expecting to see the diff cups distort and start to spit the axles out. So far so good, so I don't know what the breaking point is on the diffs. The 8200kv is like a pn50t motor atleast, and I jump the hell out of my buggy. Broke almost everything on it from botched landing on concrete, but the drive line remains intact.
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2017.01.24, 09:36 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 56
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Can the brushless buggy handle the 12000kv atomic motor or will it need fet upgrade
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2017.01.25, 09:54 AM
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#14
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epic procrastinator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nsxtat
I have a brushless one with the 8200kv motor with about 3 hours on it and my diffs are holding up so far. I was fully expecting to see the diff cups distort and start to spit the axles out. So far so good, so I don't know what the breaking point is on the diffs. The 8200kv is like a pn50t motor atleast, and I jump the hell out of my buggy. Broke almost everything on it from botched landing on concrete, but the drive line remains intact.
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If you are concerned about your different cups and don't plan on alloy ball diffs...back in my xmod days I would trim a thin piece of heat shrink and heat it just enough to reinforce but not distort the cup. It worked well for lipo powered 39T alloy bricks (ie xmod ) so it may give you some piece of mind for your buggy
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2017.01.25, 09:57 AM
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#15
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epic procrastinator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmgoodies
Can the brushless buggy handle the 12000kv atomic motor or will it need fet upgrade
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One option to confirm is to check the recent mr03 board that operates the 12k xspeed ve....if the fets are the same then you have a good indicator of use
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