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Old 2018.08.11, 09:00 PM   #16
arch2b
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Its genius in its simplicity. I'm sure Kris will be posting more photos of the current iteration.
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Old 2018.08.11, 09:10 PM   #17
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Can't wait to see it. It looks similar to what I was thinking.

Edit: what is the class spec for motor and battery?
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Last edited by EMU; 2018.08.12 at 05:26 AM.
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Old 2018.08.12, 10:31 AM   #18
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These are first generation iterations or prototypes if you will.

Maintains original wheelbase of the truck body. Utilizes the stock pick up points on the front of all Kyosho chassis's.
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Old 2018.08.12, 10:50 AM   #19
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I might have to give a truck a go. Considering this as a fall/winter project.
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Old 2018.08.12, 03:56 PM   #20
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Hey guys! Yeah 108mm. I'm going to work with a one of our own innovators and get parts of this kit made in carbon for better rigidity.

Kris
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Old 2018.08.13, 07:37 PM   #21
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Good news on some carbon fiber stuff in the works, thanks for the update. I am set to get a truck race ready. The black and red body in EMU's post is mine.

I got a great deal at a slot store with a few nice tracks. I explained to the owner that I intended to just use the body for a Mini-Z based race truck. We took it apart and he kept the guts and took $20 off a $39.99 racer. That stuff was useless to me and he was super cool. I hope that helps...
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Old 2018.08.13, 08:49 PM   #22
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That's a sweet deal!
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Old 2018.08.13, 09:28 PM   #23
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I grabbed another, same style as GIHOSU on ebay for $7.45 shipped



Looks like it's going to need a different front kit... I have ideas, but will need to get the body first. Rear end may need some workto include the wheel wells.
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Old 2018.08.14, 06:40 AM   #24
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I guess it's going to be tuff finding these for cheap on eBay for awhile
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Old 2018.08.14, 06:59 PM   #25
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What glue works best on this plastic to join the side skirts to the main body?
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Old 2018.08.15, 05:25 AM   #26
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Medium CA with baking soda may be the best bond... hot glue might be a good alternative, since the body would separate before cracking the plastic.

I'm planning to make a frame that screws the side pods to and then the main chassis. At least for the white truck that I am doing. The differing design of the body with the wheel wells not integrated into three pods means that I either need to replace them or cut them from the center section and attach them to the sub frame.

The different bodies look to have about 2mm difference in wheelbase. I tried to show it as best I could. Front wells centered, and you can see the difference in the rear.





The fly buggyra is listed as 107mm wheelbase. The scalextric truck is listed as 106.5mm. So while they look like there a greater wheelbase length delta, it's only .5mm on the chassis.

Ray, I have no plans to get any more of the bodies. I just needed the same one that GIHOSU has to be able to work a mounting system out. It doesn't look like the same design for the fly will work for the scalextric. You should be able to find them pretty cheap.

I had reached out to Remy on the book, since he has some lexan ones in stock. Selling $20 per body, plus ship. I think shipping is flat up to 5 bodies. I have already spent this and next month's allotment of my hobby budget... so you're safe to snipe those low priced bids
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Old 2018.08.15, 06:02 AM   #27
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It appears the scalextric is what the lexans is based off of? I'm not a fan of lexan bodies as I prefer scale realism of the slot bodies.

Can't wait to see the framework your designing. Ideally it would be awesome if you could secure a body to a framework that attached like an autoscale but thats a lot of design consideration to resolve and Kris's system for the Buyy. works simply and effectively but may be more challenging to accommodate the cab forward trucks.

This is going to be fun! This could make our next trailer race much more interesting!
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Old 2018.08.15, 07:57 AM   #28
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Initial design will be as simple as it can be. I wish I had time to do a lot of modelling, but I will probably only get one day this week with enough computer time to model, and I havent modeled in a couple months, so it will take a little time to get my mind back into it.

The Scalextric has screw mounts facing the bottom of the chassis for the side pods, which will make it a little more difficult. But, perhaps there may be a way to integrate a side clip into it. I do want to make a bumper of some sorts, but need the appropriate measuring tool to get the radius proper. It takes about 2 weeks to print a prototype for me, so I need to ensure accuracy as best as I can and have the prototype as near complete as I can. I do have the luxury of having a close to accurate MR03 type model to reference, which should help speed the process. I would just need to account for the differences in my design and Kyoshos.

I was told that the lexan body is 98mm. So, that opens it up to AWD and FWD options where at 106mm, the only option is RWD.

Have we decided what sort of power we are looking at running the class? Slow motors, fast motors? Im game for either, but slower motors mean less chance of breaking the bodies
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Old 2018.08.15, 03:14 PM   #29
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Talk right now is of PN70T pr PN3500kv with equivalent gear ratio limitations which haven not yet been determined. I believe PN has a gear ratio table that adequately covers this in a set of rules.

All is still being ironed out, this is all informal at the moment as looking to kick off this class in September. Gives everyone a bit of time to figure it out.
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Old 2018.08.15, 07:03 PM   #30
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Cool, I will drop a 70t motor in the car... I mean truck! feels so weird to say.

I have read the new PNWC regulations posted here, which have open gearing, but user can change the rotor in the 3500kv motor to tune for more RPM or more torque. My opinion would be to stick with a gearing restriction and stock rotor.
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