Thanks for the compliment Yes, I did get the side spings and they really help the car handle through the turns a lot better without too much side to side roll. If you do get them follow this link to a page on Pro-Z's website on how to install them. No installation instructions come with any of the products: http://www.pro-z.com/side/side_spring_sus.html
One word of caution, make sure that you do glue the springs onto the micro nut. They do have a tendancy to fall off with hard driving or if the track is elevated off the ground and your car flies off theyll pop right off. Have fun with your new chassis! If you need any help with your chassis, let me know and I'll help you out the best I can
Thanks for the compliment! I have total confidence that you will soon be getting your order from the shop when you explain your situation to them. As with zumzum5150, If you need any help with your chassis let me know
I am going to guess that the side springs are the same as a motec exo2 micro rs4 chassis. That system works pretty good.
I have already received an email about the pro-z.com order from the shop here. I am glad to see that there are very nice people around here.
I alos oreder a chassis form the store here so it looks like I might have two chassis. If I get both I will give one to the neighbor kid that got me into racing. It will make a great holiday gift for him.
Finally after 2/5 moths I get my Pro-z V5. Can someone please help me with the batterie pack? Someone told me that the soldering make the batteries to explode, is this true? With charger do I use to charge the pack?
You need to solder the pack together, not hard if you have a good iron 40 Watt or more. Use a little flux or soldering paste and a chisel tip on the iron. Your iron should be hot enough to flow solder to the battery within a few seconds of touching it. If you hold the iron to the battery for a few minutes, the battery will vent, and all the media will expand and push out the top seam. Take your time, wait until the irons hot and tin the top and bottom of the battery and whatever you use to wire the pack together (wire, battery bars or copper braid). Dont let the open connections touch the chassis plates or else the pack will short and the battery will drain quickly. If you find you are not getting more than 9 or 10 minutes out of the fully charged battery, check your connections for shorts. You want to charge the pack on a charger that will charge receiver packs or a charger that allows you to change the charge amperage rate. Ideally the packs should be charged a 1 amp or less, at this rate it takes about 45 mins to an hour to charge a 6.0 v, Metal Hydride pack. When I'm racing I have charged at 1.5 amps, but this gets them hot, so keep a fan on them if you choose to do this. Batteries should be monitored while charging, dont plug them in and walk away for a few hours, not very safe. I have never seen a battery catch fire, but they do make a mess when they vent not to mention the stuff inside the battery is not good for the human body. The packs are held in by the top deck, it clamps down and holds the pack very securely. The battery slots on the chassis allow you to alter the battery placement, I like a little more weight to the front, I find I get less push when cornering. The back of the chassis has plenty of weight, but thats is up to you and your driving style. This chassis great and has plenty of adjustment and a lot of stuff available to make it handle like an 1/18th scale.
Thanks.... I just finished assembling my V5 and it is very nice... I will work on battery packs tomorrow...
The only issue I see so far is that I used a stock 01 rear pod... the diamond bar does not stick out the back far enough to give the stock pod "full travel" If you hold the car in your hand you can flex the pod down but if you set the car down and push on the top, there is no flex because the pod is flush against the top chassis plate. What is hitting is the two support ribs that run up and parrallel with the mounting screw holes. I will try to dremmel some of the material off to allow for some travel. But doing so will weaken the mount area.
I may opt for an aluminum pod but hate to add the weight... Plus I don't see any on the MZR site for sale... May have to go to hong kong for that...
Other than that, the car seems real solid, cant wait to run it...
I dremelled mine and it works fine, I ran it like that for about six months, before I replaced it with aluminum eye candy. You can adjust ride height by tighten/loosening the two center screws, and the two screws on the left and right of the t-bar are for tweak. You can add a little left or right bias to the thrust of the axle. This helps compensate for the diff being on the right side of the axle or you can get a little more steering for those tight technical courses.
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