2008.02.01, 09:37 AM
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#61
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MBMZR
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 3,274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxtrev
i am saving up for an mr-02, but its $140. Looking at these things, for $50, i might want one of these instead. But if i order one from toyeast, will it %100 sure be the new version? with the old 2.0, a lot of people got crappy controllers, bad plastic, and bad molds. With the new and improved version of the 2.0, are these problems all fixed? i want to get one from toyeast, but i dont want to get one that will break [ tx too], cuz then i have to send it back and waste all my money on shipping fees. Also, does it handle just as good as the real mr-02? are the electronics and such just as good? i am asking all of this because if i can be sure that i will get a nice fl 2.0 thats just as good as the mr-02, i WILL buy one in a heart beat!
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IMO, it is a lesser car than a Kyosho. You get what you pay for, and it is less than half the price. The electronics are slower, the motor is slower, and the plastic is of lesser quality. All that being said it is a good car for the money. I tried to run mine against box stock MR02s. I was running an ATM stockR motor which is uber fast in my Zs. My car couldnt keep up with the Zs at all.
The handling is there, and these are a HUGE step up from any Xmod. The tolerances are tighter, the steering more sensetive, and over all performance blows Xmods away. They just arent quite up to par with a Kyosho. If you are going to use it for running around the house, it will be a good buy. If you plan on racing it, keep saving and get the Kyosho.
Ive owned 2 of these (1 old, and 1 new) and have 2 friends that run them (newer versions), so I have a bit of experience with them. One guy has his FET modified, with a real fast (custom wound) motor. It is comparable to my MR02 with a FET safe motor, and the older 3004 FETs. Im upgrading that car to the new 3010 FETs. Once I do that, he wont keep up, even with a superior motor and FETs. Im having a single stack of 4562s put on mine. Ill let you know how it fairs on the track after that.
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Landon
LET's Go Racing!
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2008.02.01, 04:33 PM
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#62
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MidWest Racers
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 410
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well,
thanks for the help guys. i am leaning more to the kyosho side now, i really want to have a competitive racer [ my xmod evo just for "running around the house" lol], and the mr-02 seems to come with better electronics and plastics, so i will probably just save up the extra $100. note: this is gonna take forever to save up for, but i already have $45, and i'm gonna cut some wood all day tomorrow. [WHATEVER IT TAKES!!!]
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2008.02.03, 08:07 PM
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#63
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 475
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hrdrv,
I would have to agree with you on some of the point, basically the NR2 is more of a budget racer that is stock to stock is not yet on par with Kyosho MR-02. However with that being said it is still a very good racer and much more superior then the similar priced X-mod.
However it is kinda strange to hear that even with stack FET NR2 still can't out perform MR-02 stock. Since it is my understanding that the speed is control by the limit of the FET and not the overall board electronics. So upgrading the FET should dramatically change the speed of the chassis.
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2008.02.03, 09:52 PM
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#64
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fangel
hrdrv,
I would have to agree with you on some of the point, basically the NR2 is more of a budget racer that is stock to stock is not yet on par with Kyosho MR-02. However with that being said it is still a very good racer and much more superior then the similar priced X-mod.
However it is kinda strange to hear that even with stack FET NR2 still can't out perform MR-02 stock. Since it is my understanding that the speed is control by the limit of the FET and not the overall board electronics. So upgrading the FET should dramatically change the speed of the chassis.
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We finally tried one of the NR2 at our club. I do not like the new electronics at all. There is no pot for adjusting the centering of the steering, you have to trim it with the controller. The steering also seems weak. Especially when you put a faster motor in. I put a HFAY Spec motor (similar to an Atomic Standard motor) in two NR2's and they both experience the same problem. With the faster motor the steering was no longer able to work correctly. It had a lot of trouble centering after a turn, almost like the motor was pulling so much power that the steering wasn't getting enough. When I switch them back to stock motors the problem goes away. I took apart the servos to make sure they moved freely and they do. It is an electrical problem not a physical problem.
Our club mostly runs Firelap 2.0's and have been pleased with them. The new NR2 does appear to have better plastics but please go back to the old circuitry.
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2008.02.04, 07:39 AM
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#65
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MBMZR
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 3,274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fangel
hrdrv,
I would have to agree with you on some of the point, basically the NR2 is more of a budget racer that is stock to stock is not yet on par with Kyosho MR-02. However with that being said it is still a very good racer and much more superior then the similar priced X-mod.
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I totally agree with everything said here I made a point in my previous post to state "over all performance blows Xmods away".
Quote:
Originally Posted by fangel
However it is kinda strange to hear that even with stack FET NR2 still can't out perform MR-02 stock. Since it is my understanding that the speed is control by the limit of the FET and not the overall board electronics. So upgrading the FET should dramatically change the speed of the chassis.
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I thought it to be strange too. Just to calrify though, it wasnt stacked FETs, just single 4562s. Ive found these to be very good FETs with a linear range. They can also handle hotter motors than the stock FETs, and make stock safe motors even faster.
I will admit this wasnt my car. It was one of my friends that races with us. He is putting some 4562s on my NR2 now (single ones as well). I will be able to set it up similar to my cars and determine wether it could have been pure set up that wasnt putting the power down. Ill keep you guys posted
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Landon
LET's Go Racing!
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2008.02.04, 09:15 PM
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#66
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 475
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hrdrvr,
As I said before, even with the new information that you have provided.
Anything that should out perform the stock FET should "out perform" the stock chassis.
It's basically the golden rule, high the power to weight ratio, faster it moves. (both accerleration and top speed)
I would believe it's the person or maybe the setting as you have mention it.
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2008.02.04, 09:29 PM
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#67
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 475
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pinwc4,
I have not personally tried the motor that you suggested, but I did tried the i-plus motor that we have in stock. The i-plus motor is a FET safe motor, and I have not experience the problem you have witness. I could not confirm the cause of the issue, but my bet is same as yours, it should be a voltage issue.
However I checked with the engineer, they have confirmed to me that the voltage output should be even higher then the previous models (However I don't know which "older" version you have.)
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2008.02.04, 09:53 PM
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#68
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fangel
pinwc4,
I have not personally tried the motor that you suggested, but I did tried the i-plus motor that we have in stock. The i-plus motor is a FET safe motor, and I have not experience the problem you have witness. I could not confirm the cause of the issue, but my bet is same as yours, it should be a voltage issue.
However I checked with the engineer, they have confirmed to me that the voltage output should be even higher then the previous models (However I don't know which "older" version you have.)
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The HFAY motor is FET safe also. It has ran fine with the old Firelaps as most our club run this combination. Some of our Firelaps are over 2 years old. The new NR2's are the only ones that have had this problem. I tried 2 different RTR's and they did not work with the HFAY motor. I swapped the board with a Kyosho board with 3004 FET's and it worked fine. So I know the motor is works and the batteries were charged. The motor and batteries were broken in prior to using them in the NR2.
If I had only tried one NR2 I would have though maybe I had bad luck and got a bad one. But since I opened a second one and it had the same behavior it appears as though the new board can not handle as strong of motors as the older boards.
Which is a bummer for us as we participate in the How Fast Are You OnLine Point Series. Most everyone in our club uses Firelaps. The rules for the HFAY point series only allows you to use the stock motor or the HFAY motor. Since the stock motor in the Firelaps is weaker than the stock Kyosho motor we are at a disadvantage if we can not run the HFAY motor.
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2008.02.10, 10:30 PM
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#69
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 475
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hum...this is really strange.
Since I don't have the motor that you have suggested for testing, I really can't confirm about this. However I understand you issue and feel that it would be too bad if it is true.
I'll ask the engineer about this and see if this is actually true.
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2008.02.14, 07:11 PM
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#70
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Manila, Philippines
Posts: 388
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Actually I have the feeling this is true because when I put in weak batteries on my firelap, the steering suffers (of course the throttle suffers too). But what I'm trying to say is that usually, in rc cars, when the batteries become weak, only the throttle suffers but not the steering. In this case, it seems the elec. board is sharing the power between the two and not equalizing the voltage.
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I'll win next time, just you see!
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2008.02.14, 08:06 PM
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#71
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 475
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As I have said before, I believe that it might be true, but unless I use a volt meter to measure it I can't confirm it.
All I know is that when the battery runs down, the overall chassis responce will decrease and signal noise will appear. I think this has something to do with the electronic design and what the PCB consider "enough" power. I know that some electrical component will not function unless it has what "it" thinks is "enough" power.
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2008.02.15, 10:09 AM
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#72
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MBMZR
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 3,274
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Ive had the experience of low batteries giving me control (steering and throttle) ony my Firelaps and on my miniZs. Its just a product of the combuined ESC and Rx, IMO.
fangel, I went ahead and put a 4562 set (single layer) of FETs on my new version FL. It is faster than the stock miniZ with a stock Z motor. My friend must have had a really loose gear diff or a bad set of rear tires, as the power just wasnt getting to the ground. My next trial is to see how it stacks up against a Z with a single layer of 4562s and then with a slightly faster motor.
It may be a while, but Ill report back when I get a chance
__________________
Landon
LET's Go Racing!
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2008.02.17, 08:41 PM
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#73
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 475
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It's really down to the electronic design to control how low power situation handles.
It's good that your NR2 is back up and running, Traction is really a big component for the handling and performance. I think it will present a good competition for MR-02.
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