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Old 2019.01.24, 07:18 AM   #31
Ka0sgh0st
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperFly View Post
I saw that too, was wondering if he flipped it to accommodate the higher post mount on the Atomic pod.

Here's how I have that damper installed, without the spring:

that's a very helpful picture. I see what I had wrong.

I however have countersunk screws with the lock nuts to hold the 2 carbon fiber pieces together. The only outside screws I used were not there when I put the damper together, and those are the ones that hold the dealer to the chassis. Does that matter? I tried to find button heads in my bag of screws, but only found 1 that had the right threads, but was way too long. the rest didnt want to thread into the nut, and I didnt want to force it and destroy the threads.

there still is some body rub however, but I see why. the body shifts one way and isnt centered. after playing with it a few times and getting the body centered, there wasnt any run and was super smooth. took the body off, put it back on, and body rub. and again plays g with it to get the body centered and it's fine again. It looks like there is a little hole/notch/bulb thing area on the top of the body for the damper. when pittihung the body on, it sits off to one side of it and I can see and hear the rubbing. but now at least Incan play around with it and get it to work. Is there something I can put on the body clip parts to shift the body over? I was thinking a small dab of hot glue, then while the glue is still hot pull the body off so it doesnt adhere to that. AMD reshape the hot glue so it doesnt let the body shift that far on the one side

on a side note, do you all use a different image host to upload pictures? I've been having to email them to myself and shrink them down on my PC. would be much faster to just upload off my phone, but they are always way too big. loke 1 or 2 mb, and it only let's me upload like 488kb or something like that.

Last edited by Ka0sgh0st; 2019.01.24 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 2019.01.24, 10:49 AM   #32
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The countersunk screws are not a necessity, in fact, my version of that damper doesn't have the countersunk cones hollowed out of the CF, it's just flat. I bought it right when they updated to accommodate 102mm, the previous version only had one set of holes at 98mm.

The important thing is getting that whole friction plate below the PCB cover deck. Just be sure to put the screw head on top and the nut on the bottom. This will get you the few mm needed to get that spring mount from scraping on the body.

I post pictures the old school way; pull them off my phone, resize/crop in Photoshop, and then post a jpeg to a directory on my business web server.
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Old 2019.01.24, 09:47 PM   #33
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The countersink screw is helpful only into the damper post, and top shock. Using it in the damper post through the arm of the mount should allow you to lower the arm 1-1.5mm, and reduce any rub.

If that doesn't help, you can relocate the side clips, and hot glue them back into the body. Use of hot glue here will create more tension, and retention of the body, and keep it centered.

Image posting I do on my phone almost all of the time. I use an app to resize the pics (why can't this just be integrated into default software), then upload to the forum in the post.

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Old 2019.01.25, 03:11 AM   #34
Ka0sgh0st
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperFly View Post
The countersunk screws are not a necessity, in fact, my version of that damper doesn't have the countersunk cones hollowed out of the CF, it's just flat. I bought it right when they updated to accommodate 102mm, the previous version only had one set of holes at 98mm.

The important thing is getting that whole friction plate below the PCB cover deck. Just be sure to put the screw head on top and the nut on the bottom. This will get you the few mm needed to get that spring mount from scraping on the body.

I post pictures the old school way; pull them off my phone, resize/crop in Photoshop, and then post a jpeg to a directory on my business web server.
with the screw that comes up for the shock correctly in the countersunk hole, the top of the plate is flat, while there are 2 holes that are countersunk on the underside. however, the holes I need to ise are flat on both sides, as well as the second plate that gets attached.

As long as the attached plate is under the other one mounted to the chassis, does it really matter if the nuts or screws are on top? I haven't seen a difference either way. ring the countersunk screw doesnt use the countersunk holes, I'm not sure it would matter. I could be wrong though
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Old 2019.01.25, 03:59 AM   #35
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The two countersink holes in the forward set of mounting holes for the adapter plate to screw through to the damper plate are to use the damper plate in the 98mm position with the damper plate on top. It should not matter whether the nuts are on top or below, I install the nuts low to lower the center of gravity marginally.

What you need to use the countersink screw for is through the damper arm into the post which holds the discs, and keep that arm as low as possible. A little threadlock (purple) on the screw will help prevent it from loosening from vibration. Due to its location, this is a difficult screw to tighten after the fact, especially with the flaw in the damper arm in that it moves. I used blue thread lock inside the entire cavity that the arm sits in on the mount, and let it sit for a day, it has not budged since. However, this makes it locked in position, which is why threadlock is even more important for the damper post screw since you would need to remove the motor for access (not an easy feat with the damper arm in the lowest position.

With this scale, every detail cannot be overlooked, but with a keen eye and patience, even flawed products can perform admirably. This mount is a very good performing one, with the only real drawbacks being the damper arm wobble and gear capacity restriction.
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