2004.10.02, 11:04 AM
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#16
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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notice they sneak in the non bold text
Quote:
There are a lot of differences but a lot of similarities as well.
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2004.10.02, 12:07 PM
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#17
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Rockin Da Z
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NL, Canada
Posts: 3,112
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sneaky bastards lol
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2004.10.03, 08:41 PM
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#18
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r/c user
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Schenectady,ny
Posts: 462
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x mod turning
Radio shack should upgrade the pcb board to fix the turnig radius. A simple swap of two resistors or adding 2 4.7k ohm resistors inline of the potntiometer will cure the problem. I fixed both of mine and it works great. Actualy my 2wd xmod turns in a tighter radius tham my mro2.The only good thing about the x-mods is that it lead me to the mini-z, which i now own a fleet of. The x mods are a good effort by radioshack, a bit of over kill and a little short on quality.
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2004.10.03, 09:56 PM
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#19
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Mechanic
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Chatsworth, GA
Posts: 3,577
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anybody ever thought about lifting an X-Mod as we have seen done my Easy to a Mini-Z? it would be good if it can be done easily b/c it has optional 4-wheel drive sounds like fun
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Real Racers Do It Sideways.
PETA=People Eating Tastey Animals
those two chicks over there, not so hot. Dont get me wrong, I would still go for it, cause thats the type of equal opportunity guy I am.
I am a FIRM believer in "Run what ya brung"......Unless it's your MOUTH!!!
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2004.10.04, 07:36 AM
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#20
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r/c user
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Schenectady,ny
Posts: 462
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there is not enough power to spin larger overland size tires. Even with the smallest pinon gear set up i fred the pcb.
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2004.10.04, 04:40 PM
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#21
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Rockin Da Z
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NL, Canada
Posts: 3,112
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turns tighter than a MR-02 huh? That's pretty sweet.
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2004.10.05, 06:48 PM
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#22
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Zoom Zoom!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,146
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It does turn a lot tighter; but like pHREDD said; it's a lot harder to control. I did the resistor mod to my RSX and it made all the difference in the world. Then I blew up the PCB. I still havn't switched the resistors into my other RSX. I'm still debating if it's worth the trouble. I want to build this XMod up to handle a much higher top speed. I've got a Mini Z on the way that'll handle the tight, technical tracks.
Anyway, stuff I've done to my XMods and my reviews:
AWD - very very slow; not worth it; don't do it - - - - I've read it's very beneficial if you're running a super modified motor (PN Racing S03/4, NML, etc.)
Metal bearings - a must; 'nuff said
Suspension kit - for the fronts; I wound a blue (hardest) spring around a stock spring and strut for very very stiff results and I run yellow (medium stiffness) in the rear. Definitly get the suspension kit
Tires - depends on the conditions; get the tire upgrade
Stage 2 motors - don't waste your time with the stage 1 set; stage 2 performs very well. Depending on race conditions really. Stock electronics won't really be able to optimize the blue motor (top speed, 11 tooth pinion). I run the yellow motor (10 tooth) for large open tracks and the red motor (9 tooth) for the RCP track.
Light kit - super cool at night, no real function - just something neat to have
Wheel upgrade - just looks cool; no function
As far as custom stuff goes, though:
I never run the front deck cover; just extra weight
I cut the battery case arms off the rear deck; so there's a little more room for wires n such
I took the Dremel to the insides of one beater RSX (the black one for you Chattanoogas ) - no side view mirrors; no side skirts; the entire underside is shaved smooth - so no screw points for the mirrors, side skirts, light kit, etc
-----this customized body weighs waaay less than the stock chunk of plastic
Resistor mod for the servo - took a while to do, but it was definitly worth it. The car turns (turned ) too quick to control at times. With practice, this could become a track competitor with the MZ's
6 cells - gotta do it. $0.99 at Radio Shack and 2 more AAA's will go from 24kmh to 37kmh. (Yes, I checked on a Tamiya speed checker - 4 cells w/9 tooth/red motor and pinion = 24, 6 cells w/10 tooth/yellow motor and pinion = 37)
Custom drive shaft mod: I used a small length of a splastic parts tree from a model kit as a drive shaft. I glued one end of it into the pinion gear. This mod saved a lot of weight; and performs well. Except after a while, the glue weakens; either from heat or vibration, or both; and falls out.
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I got nothing.
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2004.10.05, 10:02 PM
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#23
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Rockin Da Z
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NL, Canada
Posts: 3,112
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Well... I've got a Red Supra sitting around that has been barely used... if I could get it to turn worth a damn I could let the kids play with it... it would be a great beater. I'm not looking to keep it as a shelf-queen.
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2004.10.07, 08:54 AM
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#24
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Zoom Zoom!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,146
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Do the steering servo resistor mod. Makes all the difference in the world.
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I got nothing.
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2004.10.10, 03:49 PM
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#25
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Shopping Cart Drifter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: I have a home? You people need to tell me about these things I don't know!
Posts: 118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twenty-Se7en
Yes, it is slower but that is in the straight line... if you race any kind of technical track then you'd get your ass smoked by an SE if you were in an origional.
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Either way my MicroSizers will smoke all my other 1:64's and ZipZaps (don't know what scale ZipZaps are... they claim t be 1:64 yet they are larger than my other 1:64's...)
As for XMods, it seems that some cosmetic items on them are very heavy. Take off every unneeded item and it might go faster...
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Paintball:
Tippmann A-5
Response Trigger
"I have an idea. An idea so big my head would explode if I even began to know what I was talking about." - Peter Griffin, Family Guy
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2004.10.12, 04:11 AM
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#26
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Drift master
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 246
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I've got the xmod too. Just as you said it, the electronic sucks. So i've mod it by throwing away the xmod PCB and installed the Novak XXL AM receiver, Novak Spy and a micro servo. But this you'll have to modify the xmod a bit to be able to use those electronic parts. And as the result, the handling is much much better, more powerful with the Novak Spy and it's a total changeover for the Xmod. Do check out the aftermarket CF chassis plates for the Xmod.
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Toyota Trueno AE86, Honda NSX, AMG Merz, Peugeot 206, Nissan Skyline, Mazda RX-7 FD3S, Ferrari Modena
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2005.02.27, 08:00 PM
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#27
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Master of Thrash
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 4,980
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Whoo, this is an old thread. But anyhow, I done the old school steering mod on mine. That is modding the steering bar by bending the ends forward a bit, Also a bit of toe in with it. for the rear a styrene piece to tie the rear swing arms together. I am still getting around that "funky camber" rear setup on these cars. One thing on the Mini Z racers that I like is the solid axel setup, seems better at planting the rear anyway. By keeping the tires flat to the ground. With the mods that I done so far on my Xmods, it is still unpredictable in a turn. The rear diff with the AWD kit, I can not call a real diff. A real diff you hold the gear and turn one of the rear tires the other one will move in the opposite direction. This Xmods "ball" diff will ether slip or stick, I wonder why they even put balls in it. And yes, I have tried adjusting it with no luck. I still have not done any electronic mods at this time. I have always seen two things in a car to take a corner,
1. how much the front can turn it.
2. how much the rear can take before sliding away.
A Mini Z can do both those better than an Xmods out of the box. With the right mods you can make an Xmods turn as fast as a Mini Z, but can the Xmods track as fast as a Mini Z? This is the big question here.
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2005.05.17, 05:25 PM
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#28
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Mini-z Addict.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Newport RI
Posts: 263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b
a new comer to the washington gtg's brought his skyline xmod and actually ran it rather well on my 50cm track. he also mentioned bending in the ends of the tie bar. it definately was better than my son's rsx. he still got blown away when running with the z's though. just posting to show it can be done...
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Bending the tierods help so much, heres a pic of both my Xmods with bent tie rods, Well I tryed on the Suburu(Which is the one in the blue ).The RSX has a very small turning radius now.
Also the RSX,04 Mustang, and NSX have better turning radius then most of the other cars. Why?:Because the wheelbase is shorter.
Xmods can compete if you get a carbon fiber driveshaft, its mostly because of the stock drive shaft that the Xmod is slow.Mainly because of friction and weight.Its like a long metal pole sticking out of your beavel gear.
GPM is now making parts for Xmods for those people who do not know.
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Got me an Overland! Upgrades: Dry Idler gear bearings, and alluminum screws.MY GALLERY
MA-010-Completely Stock.
Last edited by Boss302; 2005.05.17 at 05:39 PM.
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2005.05.17, 08:24 PM
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#29
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles (Pasadena), CA, USA
Posts: 2,809
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if you can get past the funky rear camber stuff, the xmod is quite a cool 'weekend driver'; even with RWD, add a couple mods and you can pull proper drifts, especially after tying the rear arms together.
while i haven't driven my new iwaver yet, i have no doubts that the live axle setup will keep the wheels on the ground better. but i wonder if these live axles suffer from the same gyroscopic effect that real-sized live axles suffer.
and going back to the first post in this thread... a nelly would be a good investment for the xmod... $20 and a lot of performance gain.
hammerz: IMO there's more factor in your handling checklist: how easy the rear end is to control after it slips away
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2005.05.17, 08:50 PM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 239
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get the tight turns kit off of atomicmods and some other sites i forgot
it helps you get a better turing radius
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