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Old 2018.05.12, 09:30 PM   #1
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Audi R8 LM questions...

Hey everybody... I picked up an AWD MA-020VE Pro not too long ago... it came with the Mazda drift body and wheels, gyro, and full bearings... I wanted to switch to the Audi R8 LM because I like the looks of it better, and I only got the model I did because for the price it came with the gyro and bearings... I planned from the beginning to put rubber tires on it and race it eventually...

My dilemma.. not only does the rear of the Audi sit up way too high compared to the photos, (and the Mazda), there's nothing that says whether you have to make the rear chassis wide or not... just the wheel offsets (which it comes with)

Do you leave the chassis setting at narrow and use the offset of the wheels to get it to sit 'right', or do you also widen the rear track as well? the rear wheels are a 2.2 offset, but I could easily go with 3 or 3.5 offset in the rear and not have an issue (and it would look better in the process)

I know the only way to get the body lower (without affecting spring rate/suspension travel) is to raise the body clips on the inside... I'll figure that out later

thanks in advance for any info
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Old 2018.05.12, 09:35 PM   #2
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Here’s some photos of how it sits in the rear now
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File Type: jpeg 38AC89BD-4BC5-47B1-919F-97467340714B.jpeg (438.7 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg 9DE81493-237F-49DE-B619-2696E9399927.jpg (252.7 KB, 30 views)
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Old 2018.05.13, 08:01 AM   #3
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That's sitting quite high there. By the looks of things, it would need a body clip adjustment. Unfortunately, many autoscale bodies have this issue. I had switched from autoscale bodies to unpainted bodies long ago to save money, and position the clips without risking damaging the body removing the old ones.

Awd bodies can typically be run a little lower than 2wd because of the additional clearance needed for rear pod articulation. Since the AWD rear wheels only travel in one path, and you don't need clearance for a top shock, it makes it a little easier to lower the body a little more than the 2wd.

I have had bodies that fit perfectly on 2wd builds, but always sat high in awd. So, there may be a slight difference between how the rear of the chassis sits.

The minimum chassis clearance to the track is more important than having a gap between wheels and the body. Set ride height of the chassis first (with mass to compensate for body mass), then you will know how far you will need to adjust the body clip positions.

As far as offsets, in the rear, I have always used more offset on AWD compared to 2wd. If you can fit a wide front suspension configuration, I would recommend it.
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Old 2018.05.13, 09:53 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMU View Post
That's sitting quite high there. By the looks of things, it would need a body clip adjustment. Unfortunately, many autoscale bodies have this issue. I had switched from autoscale bodies to unpainted bodies long ago to save money, and position the clips without risking damaging the body removing the old ones.

Awd bodies can typically be run a little lower than 2wd because of the additional clearance needed for rear pod articulation. Since the AWD rear wheels only travel in one path, and you don't need clearance for a top shock, it makes it a little easier to lower the body a little more than the 2wd.

I have had bodies that fit perfectly on 2wd builds, but always sat high in awd. So, there may be a slight difference between how the rear of the chassis sits.

The minimum chassis clearance to the track is more important than having a gap between wheels and the body. Set ride height of the chassis first (with mass to compensate for body mass), then you will know how far you will need to adjust the body clip positions.

As far as offsets, in the rear, I have always used more offset on AWD compared to 2wd. If you can fit a wide front suspension configuration, I would recommend it.

Thanks... I think I might need a 'clipectomy'... I've done it on an LM body (Mazda 787B and Sauber) but you are right... the clearance needed for the rear pod on my LM chassis still kept me from running the body as low as I would like, but there is plenty of room above the AWD chassis... I got a white body Porsche 911 GT3 and that fits perfectly, and I DID order some wheels that will give my rear another 2mm of offset for the Audi.... if I go any wider in the front, the tire will rub when it turns

I think I'll get a white body Audi too and go from there
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Old 2018.05.13, 03:17 PM   #5
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After the ‘clip-ectomy’ or is it ‘clip-endectomy’?
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File Type: jpg 93B9ECF6-ADED-4FA2-8E02-C559B05B302E.jpg (479.1 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpeg 5A8990DA-802F-4298-8B0D-822DF7F77A87.jpeg (474.7 KB, 34 views)
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Old 2018.05.13, 09:50 PM   #6
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Now that looks good!
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Old 2018.05.15, 12:05 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMU View Post
Now that looks good!
Thx... I think it looks WAY better

I don’t know why Kyosho refuses to mount these clips in a location that makes the cars look good... especially since in all their press photos, the cars are stanced properly
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Old 2018.05.15, 12:20 AM   #8
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I have 4 different Mazda 787 bodies. 2 are white autoscale versions, one is the original renown, and the other is an unpainted white body. All of the autoscale white ones the clips don't sit right and rear tire rubs when it articulates, but the renown is perfect. I raced a box stock race with the car a month ago, and started with the renown then tried the white one and it was uncontrollable.

The production runs could just have just been on a bad day, or to the wrong spec... who knows. I have noticed that many of the bodies with clip issues all tend to be of the same color. Like the silver Sauber c9, while the alternate color has no issues.

In general, I stick with unpainted bodies... and always test fit multiple times. Sometimes hot glueing in place to test what rake I want in the body before I permanently glue the clips in. Sometimes, I want that rear end lifted higher especially with low clearance bodies. The increased rake with increase downforce as well as clearance. However, it also increases CoG, which can hurt in slower layouts where aero doesn't have as much effect. I usually end up with 2-4 versions of the same body for racing, all with different aero and CoG/ balance tuning to dial in the car without needing suspension or tire adjustments.
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Old 2018.05.15, 12:44 AM   #9
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I had wicked issues with my Saubers... my Reknown 787 is pretty much perfect

But you’re right... just hot glue the clips in place imuntil you get the right setup, mark them, and then hit them with some CA...
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