To revisit this l, I tried a red xspeed brushless and it ran great then when my new 12000kv a just arrived putting one made it worst - it actually stopped and was acting like it does if you unplug just the red wire
I noticed the red esc wire seemed like it's female plug was loose and sure enough it came off! Maybe this was it all along?
I'm going to try another proboard but I noticed my friends brand new gp was tough to get in reverse as well today.
I actually secure the extra wires over the chassis in front of top shock - do you thing the heat from the car is messing up the es wires internally??? Just trying to figure this out.
My other gp 98mm car is absolutely fantastic with hardly any cog to speak of
Just curious if people are having issue with the new VE Pro car and boards or if its just brushless boards in general (VE and VE Pro). I was thinking of acquiring a brushless car to mess around with but news of cogging etc makes me want to keep investing in my asf brushed cars instead.
I just tried two new 12000kv motors on my cogging gp ( ve pro board) and still acting this way - seems like you have dying batteries when you get on it out of a turn and stay on power? So I switch ed to a new ve pro board and same thing. What leads me back to the motors is that I still have an unmolested GP VE PRO with a 12000kv that's perfect and barely cogs.
The other two will cog especially in reverse but even in fwd sometimes from a stop/ during recovery from a screw up on track.
Just curious if people are having issue with the new VE Pro car and boards or if its just brushless boards in general (VE and VE Pro). I was thinking of acquiring a brushless car to mess around with but news of cogging etc makes me want to keep investing in my asf brushed cars instead.
It's gotta be the motors - none of the ve pros with 8500kv red xspeed motors act like this, even when I swapped one in the car in question on this thread.
It's gotta be the motors - none of the ve pros with 8500kv red xspeed motors act like this, even when I swapped one in the car in question on this thread.
Makes me wonder if poor quality enamel was used to insulate the motor windings. It's a stretch (Need to emphasize this!) but take the motor into a pitch dark room and let your eyes adjust. Once you've done that, try and run the motor with a bit of load on it and peer inside the can to see if you can spot any arcing. I saw this once or twice many years ago on hand-wound, home-made CD ROM out-runner brushless motors on higher voltages so who knows if this will work for in-runners on low voltage. Could have been the frequency ramp/profile of the old ESCs I was using too.
If anyone has a better method than my redneck technique than please comment Unfortunately you can't use a DMM to check winding resistance because you usually need high frequencies to expose weaknesses in the windings dielectric strength.
Last edited by TeeSquared; 2017.02.28 at 11:32 PM.
I've personally gone to all brushless except one for our clubs box stock racing. I haven't experienced any issues related to boards. I did experience a couple bad brushless motors. I wouldn't count the VE stuff out. I've had real consistency with the Atomic 5000kv motors however.
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