2007.11.10, 12:59 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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Need help with Steering assembly
Hi Guys..
Can someone pls post a pic or two of the steering assembly with the new "servosaver"..
I have got it to work but not to my satisfaction..
Peter
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2007.11.11, 12:29 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 11
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Hope this helps
Hi, I had to do some modifications to my car when I received it. The steering linkage has a red eyelet in the middle which I sanded/grinded in order to shorten it. You may have to do the same if it is the same problem I had.
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2007.11.11, 04:32 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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Ok Thanks for the pics..
Yes thats the way i did it aswell, but the steering radius is restricted by this kind of assembly, and it´s a must to reduce the EPA´s on the radio otherwise you will destoy the servo.
Seems to me like a late afternoon solution...
Peter
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2007.11.11, 11:45 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 11
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Steering help
Hi, I replaced the the tgr kingpins with the PN racing kingpins because the PN kingpins are a little longer and cleaner. I used the Kyosho e-clips to hold the PN racing kingpins and I also placed on the kingpins against the front springs to take up some of the play because of the longer kingpins. I also placed some washers underneath the red front brace holders in order to get more clearance for the servo horn. I don't have any trouble with getting full steering after this mod. Hope this helps.
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2007.11.12, 05:14 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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Yes but the problem as I see it (only on the workbench so far, might not even be a problem) is that the servo arm is rotating in a circular movement and the steering rod in horisontal, there is bound to be stress on the servo in an early stage. My thoughts are to try to make a steering rod similar to the ones on the Iwaver 02M, where you have a (long) hole that allows the servoarm to move (up and down).
But then again these are so far workbench related questions, perhaps it runs and turns without any problems when it comes out on the track.
Peter
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2007.11.13, 02:29 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: ISTANBUL/TURKEY
Posts: 138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster
Yes but the problem as I see it (only on the workbench so far, might not even be a problem) is that the servo arm is rotating in a circular movement and the steering rod in horisontal, there is bound to be stress on the servo in an early stage. My thoughts are to try to make a steering rod similar to the ones on the Iwaver 02M, where you have a (long) hole that allows the servoarm to move (up and down).
But then again these are so far workbench related questions, perhaps it runs and turns without any problems when it comes out on the track.
Peter
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Dear Peter,
Your comments are right on theoretical platform. As you also said it is not a problem on the track. Since there is a pivot point between servo horn and short eyelet and also knuckles permit steering rod to move up and down, it does not create a stress on the servo. On the other hand the other alternative may create larger gap where as we want our car's steering as stiff as possible to obey our commands.
Regards
__________________
Sinister
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2007.12.15, 10:58 AM
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#8
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Honda Insight Racer!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Colorado, USA!
Posts: 6,399
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I don't know anything about the TGR, but you mentioned Iwaver, couldn't you use the tie-rod arm from the 02M chassis? Seems like it will do what you want or is it not the right size and/or shape?
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2007.12.17, 05:18 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8
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No i think i am going to grind of (or make new ones) the servoholderblocks and thereby move the servo backwards, to make a little more space for the new assembly, similar to the one I have on my PRO 27.
Peter
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2008.02.19, 01:47 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 360
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the quest for steering goes on,
I was thinking that i would be possible to make a new brace for the top of the steering that is not a straight piece of carbon but instead swept forward in the middle to give room for the servo-arm in that way a few more mm would be freed up for the servo movement. I have managed to get my steering working, well for a short period atleast, the nut for the servosaver spring comes loose.
In the middle were the piece is swept forward holes needs to be done for the body-posts. maybe new body posts are needed?
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2008.02.19, 01:55 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 11
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Hi, replace those nuts on the servo saver linkage with wheel nuts which are locknuts. I lowered my servo by trimming the mounting tabs on the servo as described on the TGR sinister website. I also removed the round silver spacers under the knuckles and I have good suspension travel and good steering.
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2008.02.19, 02:02 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 360
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Wow! Rclifeform!!
you said something there, remove the silver spacers..that would make the knuckles drop down and free up the suspension!!! great!
did you put the spacer ontop of the springs instead? perhaps it is better to put it ontop of the knuckle?
I need to get in there with a washer as the spring is not under tension as it is too short...
I'll report back on progress......
!!EDIT!!!
this would however make the car sit higher infront.. Is this an issue?
!!END EDIT!!
Thanks!!
/Johnny
Last edited by tudor_47; 2008.02.19 at 02:33 AM.
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2008.02.19, 02:11 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 11
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Hi, i'm using pn springs with the pn red limiters and yes I have the springs on top of the pn knuckles. I took a black piston from my 1/10scale rc shocks and used it as a spacer so there would be more tension on the springs. You can use the black piston(spacer) to adjust the front ride height by either placing below the knuckle or above the knuckle. Get yourself some pn mr-02 front springs. Good luck.
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2008.02.19, 02:35 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 360
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Hi
thanks!
I will examine my other Mini_z springs... I am afraid the PN-parts are difficult to get to here in europe.. It is usually needed to order them from the US and it tends to get very expensive.
I do have some Atomic springs and perhaps even som e Kyosho springs.
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2008.04.04, 09:29 AM
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#15
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at the Bleeding Edge
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: england
Posts: 1,724
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