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Old 2008.05.21, 02:15 AM   #1
Aurora
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Preliminary testing and thoughts for using 2.4G module with EX1UR + 2.4G AWD

Hi, all.

Happy to report back to everyone on my latest use of Ex1 UR + 2.4G module + 2.4G AWD. While more through testings are probably needed, this is my preliminary results and thoughts on this combo.

This thread is initially posted on a HK forum, where I discussed with my local friends:


Test backgroud:

I have installed a 2.4G ASF board with upgraded fets onto my AWD, which previously was using AD band board with the same kind of fets. The track is a well kept mid-small size RCP track, where I had familiarize it with my AD band car.

A second AD band car with almost identical setup is served as a backup and reference car to this testing. Also my Ex10 is standing up for comparison.



Before going into the actual test results, here are my 2 cents on installing the board and on binding, for reference:




Installation tips for 2.4G board with AWD chassis:

1) The 2.4G board cover package will include three things: the ESC cover, a stick to push the matching button and the motor pod to screw on the motor wires. Since they are made of the softer material, I strongly recommend to re-use or continue to use the blue-grey chassis motor pod. Some trimming might be needed if you are installing additional fets.

2) The new 2.4G board is more compact, and all the components are in a tighter layout. Be extra careful not to de-solder any small components when installing the new fets. The fets layout are different too. So if you are new to or not comfortable to make the fet upgrade, I would recommend to get it done with the pros.

3) Be careful when handling the 2.4G short antenna wire, it is kinda loose and may fall apart if you keep pulling it from board.



Matching/Pairing/Binding procedure for 2.4G board to 2.4G module:

This is essentially covered by the manual or in the KT18 manual. But I will put it on for reference purpose, in case anyone has lost it:

A) Power off your remote and car. Put the 2.4G module onto your remote
B) While PRESS and HOLD the pairing/binding button on the module, power "on" your remote
C) when you see the red led light on module dim, release the module button
D) Now your remote is ready to 'match' and let it power "on" for now; if you don't see the light dimming, repeat A-C.

E) While the car is off, PRESS and HOLD onto the 2.4G board pairing/binding button on car (with the stick)
F) Turn "on" the car, and continue to PRESS the pairing/binding button for another 10 seconds
G) Now release the pairing/binding button on the board. The 2.4G board should be matched/paired/binded to that 2.4G module.

H) Turn off remote and then car. Power 'on' the remote and then car to check the connection. If you are using EX1 UR, make sure it is in the 'ADV' mode to take full advantage of your 2.4G module...

Last edited by Aurora; 2008.05.23 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 2008.05.21, 02:17 AM   #2
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Preliminary report on Ex1 UR + 2.4G module + 2.4G board on AWD

Actual testing on Ex1 UR + 2.4G module + 2.4G fetted AWD


Throttle

The throttle response on the 2.4G AWD seems to be very crisp and a little 'snappy' when compared to the AD band car. Without using any quick response for throttle, the 2.4G board seems to give the car a more 'punchy' feel. But I have observed there seems to be a very noticeable delay when you want the car to go backwards, after a crash. And driver has to wait longer in order for a 2.4G car to go back vs an AD band car.

According to other forum discussion, KY personnel has confirmed there is a solid 0.2 sec wait before car can go backwards after the trigger goes to neutral, and it is suggested to 'slowly' go into reverse after the 0.2 sec wait. To resolve this issue, I suggest driver to first adjust and re-center your Tx potentiometer or VR(when your steering/throttle trim at zero). Then adjust your throttle trim to find the 'neutral' on your Ex1 UR to make life easier. Trimming forward seems to help find the 'neutral' on my Tx.

Also, the reason for no/difficult reverse on your Ex1 UR with 2.4G is because the throttle trigger is 'lighter' than the EX10, so if you just 'double tap' the trigger into reverse(like the old EX10), the new soft EX1 UR trigger might overshoot the 'neutral', and the car goes forward again. So careful and slower trigger motion will prevent the 'overshoot'.

On KT18, I suggest you to refer to pg. 24 and follow the steps very carefully to resolve your no reverse problem.

In terms of linear performance, I felt the car is a little more 'snappy' w/ 2.4G and a little slightly less 'linear' than an AD band. This will be more obvious on small track, and driver can probably adjust the throttle curve to their own liking on this.



Steering

2.4G Steering without any curve/punch/QR adjustment seems to be excellent. Usually, on my AD band car, even with ICS adjustment for stronger/faster steering, the "travel" on my Ex1 UR has to be set at around 100% (while the L/R balance is in 70-80% range). But the same car will now need 80% travel(with 2.4G) to achieve the same turning characteristic.

The steering characteristic seems to be comparable to the AD band, the performance seems linear; no obvious 'punchy' or 'snappy' feeling for the 2.4G steering when compared to AD band.

One interesting thing to observe and test is your new steering 'quick response'--if you put your car on a car stand and keep turning your steering wheel from L to R. You will notice the car will turn its wheel in a smooth manner when the QR is at zero, but it will become very choppy when the QR is turn high.



EX1 UR remote thoughts

It is most obvious that this is a recall of the old EX1 model, and definitely will appear to the more traditional KO fans. The handle grip is smaller and I feel it fit onto my hand better, and probably more comfortable to hold for longer time.

The size of the Ex1 UR is smaller in general, when compared to EX10. And I will strongly recommend people to get a remote 'stand' since it does not stand as solidly as the Ex10. Also, falling front and backward will hurt the steering wheel or the module severely. Proper protection will be needed for the 2.4G module, the antenna will break easily if you keep pressing onto it.

The display is awfully small, but probably will save some battery time. Same battery holder is used in Ex1UR and Ex10, so you can continue to use the same li-ion battery if you have one.

The traditional long antenna on Ex1 UR WILL NOT be unscrewed off the remote like Ex10, if you attempt to 'unscrew' your EX1 UR remote, you might have to take apart the whole remote to install it back.(been there, done that) The antenna can be fully retracted into the Tx body, so let it alone.


Thank you for reading, and any feedback/thoughts are most welcomed!

Last edited by Aurora; 2008.05.21 at 02:22 AM.
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Old 2008.05.21, 01:58 PM   #3
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"The traditional long antenna on Ex1 UR WILL NOT be unscrewed off the remote like Ex10, if you attempt to 'unscrew' your EX1 UR remote, you might have to take apart the whole remote to install it back.(been there, done that) The antenna can be fully retracted into the Tx body, so let it alone."

yup! This is the first thing I did to my radio... I had to open it in less that 5mins of owning the darn thing.

Aurora,

Can you do me a favor? On your ASF module, with the car/tx on. Can you slightly and slowly pull the forward trigger (right when the rear wheel wants to move), see if the steering will be erratic?

It's doing this with my AD on both Helio and EX1 when I'm on slight throttle.

Thank you!

Btw, thanks for sharing your thoughts about the ASF/EX1-UR!
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Old 2008.05.21, 03:04 PM   #4
Aurora
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
Aurora,

Can you do me a favor? On your ASF module, with the car/tx on. Can you slightly and slowly pull the forward trigger (right when the rear wheel wants to move), see if the steering will be erratic?

It's doing this with my AD on both Helio and EX1 when I'm on slight throttle.

Thank you!

Btw, thanks for sharing your thoughts about the ASF/EX1-UR!

Hey, TJay.

Thanks for reading and the comments.

I am pretty much out of 'battery' and all are basically drained. But using the EX1 UR + 2.4G module + 2.4G fetted AWD car combo, I can confirm that no erratic/switching movements have been observed at steering, when I am pulling my trigger.

I tried both forward and backward, fast and slow trigger pulling, and even when holding the steering at an angle...but everything is totally what expected to be and no undesired movements to be observed.

Hmmm...I remembered seeing that from time to time on my car, or even from different people's AD band car. But I will also give that a try on my AD band car when I have freshly charged battery.

Hope this helps.
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Old 2008.05.21, 05:26 PM   #5
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Thanks for the update!
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Old 2008.05.25, 03:55 AM   #6
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Just got my ASF module today and played with it at least for 7 hours. All I can say is DAMN!!!! This thing is AWESOME! ! ! I think it's the combination of both UR and ASF module. It's so PRECISE!

The reverse is great too! Comparing the kt-18 to UR. The UR activates the reverse at .2 sec... I have no complains on the reverse and it's still set-up on default.
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Old 2008.05.25, 05:14 AM   #7
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Fantastic thread, thank you!

It was good to read some in depth thoughts on the throttle with the module. I had an idea about the reverse delay: I'm not sure the EX1 has buttons where you can assign anything to them but for the EX10 you can assign the buttons to instantly put the car into reverse and skip the neutral step. This would be worth learning!

I will have a play later on and post any results I can find - then perhaps you could try it with yours and let us know if it makes a difference. I really want 2.4 to work and be the way forward and hope to high heavens that this reverse delay issue isn't going to be a huge problem...
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Old 2008.05.25, 10:01 AM   #8
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Done...

http://minizracer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=304097
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Old 2008.05.25, 08:39 PM   #9
Aurora
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Tjay,

Very glad you like the module. I think we are definitely entering a new era here.



Programmers,

Interesting that you have discovered this method on your own. Many Ex10 users actually use similar setup/idea to assign 'reverse' to a press button on remote to activate it. The good thing about this is people could assign a higher trim back value to mimic a 'drag brake', and still be able to reverse.

In Ex1 UR, people could assign the 'idle up' to the thumb button on the handle, and if you press it correctly, the car will go in reverse. But, the 0.2 sec delay still apply even when you use idle-up to go reverse.
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Old 2008.05.26, 02:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurora View Post
Interesting that you have discovered this method on your own. Many Ex10 users actually use similar setup/idea to assign 'reverse' to a press button on remote to activate it. The good thing about this is people could assign a higher trim back value to mimic a 'drag brake', and still be able to reverse.

In Ex1 UR, people could assign the 'idle up' to the thumb button on the handle, and if you press it correctly, the car will go in reverse. But, the 0.2 sec delay still apply even when you use idle-up to go reverse.
It's not like I came up with the idea lol. I just never got any replies when I asked on how to do it and had to work it out.

It's good to hear that it makes a slight difference with the 2.4. I feel that with the KT18 I often miss the spot and can't reverse for a while. Whereas with this idle-up reverse, as you call it - that shouldn't be a problem.
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