2006.11.15, 02:15 PM
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#1
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Corvette Killer
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 407
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HFAY AWD Setups
I have seen the AWD cars getting more and more competitive in HFAY. I was wondering what kind of setups are working best.. It would be great if we could get some of the AWD guys to post their setup info..
AA_onrailz, AA_hobbycar, The Ringer, Dink, AA_Crazybenz, to name a few..
It would be great to know Body, WB, Gear Ratio, Camber, Tierods, Toebars, springs, Diffs, Wheels/Offset, Tires, shims, bearings, outdrives, shafts, etc.. anything that you added to the stock kit..
Thanks for any info that you are willing to share..
Hood
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2006.11.15, 02:34 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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i started using my awd for our dc spec class and will consider using it for hfay season 3 so i too would be interested in reading all the setup advice.
fyi, you can check christian's long awd sas thread. i think he even discussed the chassis setup of his car he used in the pn world cup race.
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2006.11.15, 08:09 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 1,198
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Hey hood.
Recently I've been running the following setup on my MA-010 for HFAY OLPS:
Body - McLaren F1
Wheelbase - 98mm (using PN 98mm extension kit)
Motor - stock
Motor Cover - PN alloy cover w/ large heatsink
FETs - stock
Bearings - yes
Gearing - 15/31 (sometimes 17/31) (I'm using Atomic alloy gear)
Front:
Toe - stock
Camber - 1* (Kyosho plastic)
Spring - stock
Lowering spacer - 1 lowering spacer on bottom
Spring spacer - none
Diff - stock diff w/ 50,000 wt diff grease
Wheel offset - 2.5mm (Narrow)
Tire - Kyosho 20 radials (narrow)
CVDs/Swing-Shafts - 3Racing Alloy
Rear:
Toe - stock
Camber - 1* Atomic alloy
Spring - stock
Lowering spacer - none
Spring spacer - 1
Diff - atomic diff (the plastic one)
Wheel offset - 1mm (Wide)
Tire - Kyosho 20 Radial (Wide)
CVDs/Swing-Shafts - 3Racing Alloy
I'm going be changing it up a little bit this week. Specifically I'm going to try:
Body: Ferrari 360 GTC (rear wheel dremelled to fit 98mm wheelbase)
Toe: Front -1 toe in
Springs: Atomic Short springs (w/ no lowering spacer in rear to allow downward suspension travel)
Tires: Kyosho 20 Radial (Semi-Wide) in the front
-hobbycar
Last edited by hobbycar; 2006.11.15 at 09:10 PM.
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2006.11.15, 09:07 PM
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#4
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i heart oversteer
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Charlottesville, Va.
Posts: 514
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I am new to the world of Mini-z Racing. I have two MR02s. This past weekend I took them to the DC GTG and I did so terribly. I felt the cars were completely unpredictable and unstable. Granted alot of that has to do with the fact that my cars could use some time and money speant tuning.
Came home with a new body and put it on my AWD, which up until now was only for drifting, and put some kyosho radial 20s all around. Bone stock except for bearings and a motor cover. OH MY GOD, Arch you can ask Spoon, Ive been freaking out on my AWD ever since. He actually said that I was making him work last night and I actually managed to pass him once. THat is a far cry from where I was last sat.
My set up right now is bone stock, but I have some stuff on its way. Anyway Ive even considered getting rid of my other two MR02's and getting another AWD. They are too fun and it has reinvigerated (sp) my interest in racing these things.
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2006.11.15, 09:22 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 1,198
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bnwhtlw, glad to hear your positive experience with the AWD. It's been the same for me - can't seem to get my MR-02 setup right But maybe it's because I've been giving alot more time to the MA-010.
I posted this comment awhile back and still feel the same way:
Quote:
Originally Posted by hobbycar
Well just wanted to chime in on this thread again and say that I used my AWD to get second place overall in the last race of the HFAY OLPS season (and fourth overall in the 2nd to last race). I used it in 3 of my last 4 HFAY OLPS races as I've felt it's been better setup than my MR-02 and I've seen good results.
The biggest disadvanteges/risks of using the AWD vs the MR-02:
more parts (more slop and/or drag),
tends to flip more (the AWD sometimes pulls it up and over other cars, rails),
slightly heavier,
slightly more expensive,
"lazy pinion" issue,
motor gets super hot (may affect runtime and performance?),
have to do something with the stock diffs,
a little slower
But I've been able to solve/work around these and for me personally the AWD has been easier to drive recently than my MR-02.
Again it's driver preference - which do you feel most comfortable with. If I had to recommend a car to a brand new racer for HFAY OLPS type racing, I'd personally recommend an AWD first with a MR-02 MM McLaren 98mm a close second.
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FYI, for the "lazy pinion" issue I highly recommend superglueing your pinion onto the motor shaft or buying the alloy pinions.
-hobbycar
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2006.12.15, 02:18 PM
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#6
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RacerTag: Drinian
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 328
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Hey hobbycar,
Thanks for posting your AWD setup for us newbies. I might try your setup and see how it works for me. My biggest issue with the AWD, after I got alloy pinions, is that it turns sharp to the left but wide to the right. I'm almost certain that it's something with my setup because I don't recall it doing this when it was all stock. Unfortunately I've been unable to figure it out yet. I'm wondering if anybody else has experienced this. If so, please reply.
I know it's not an electronic issue such as trim, end point adjustment, etc. Mechanically the wheels turn just as far in both directions, and when you're going very slow the car will turn sharp both directions. It's only when the car is moving with any speed that the issue appears.
My car is setup according to the "Grip Setting Data" found at:
http://www.kyosho.com/eng/support/se...niz_index.html
If anyone has any insight as to why my car is performing this way I would sure appreciate your input.
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2006.12.15, 02:51 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, GA
Posts: 167
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My car is doing something similar but I think it's partly due to the servo. Looking at it both wheels seem like they are turning both directions equally. Get the car to turn in a circle really slow in each direction and it can't turn as tight going right. If you look real close the servo can't spin to the right as far it can to the left. I took the front end apart looking around if it was hitting something. All appeared to be good, I'm going to try and take it apart again and recenter the servo. Mine came from the factory all out of whack. When I adjust each side with my radio by X % it's not the same on each side, it's a little hard to explain. It's like the servo isn't symmetrical on each side, one side is more exaggerated than the other with adjustments.
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2006.12.15, 04:36 PM
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#8
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RacerTag: Drinian
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 328
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wsaenotsock,
I took my front end apart too, looking for a reason, but I could find none. My servo turns the same amount both directions and when the car is going slow it turns at the same radius in both directions. Your problem sounds quite a bit different than mine but I'd still be interested in hearing if you find a cure. Who knows, maybe they're related problems.
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2006.12.16, 12:22 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, GA
Posts: 167
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Found the culprit. I upgraded to the stronger blue/gray chassis and there's something not quite right with the piece that covers the servo and the gears. The arm rubs on the inside keeping it from turning as far to the right. I put the stock gray cover back on and the steering instantly balanced out. Something to watch out for. I didn't take the time to figure out where it's exactly rubbing.
Last edited by wsaenotsock; 2006.12.16 at 12:29 AM.
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2006.12.17, 10:27 AM
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#10
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RacerTag: Drinian
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsaenotsock
Found the culprit. I upgraded to the stronger blue/gray chassis and there's something not quite right with the piece that covers the servo and the gears. The arm rubs on the inside keeping it from turning as far to the right. I put the stock gray cover back on and the steering instantly balanced out.
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My problem was happening with the stock chassis. I upgraded to the blue/gray chassis in an attempt to fix the problem. No change. As I mentioned before, mechanically my car is turning the same amount both directions. At slow speeds my turning radius is the same. It's only at high speed that there's a difference, and it's very noticeable.
UPDATE: We raced last night and I went back to the stock knuckles in the rear (I was running Atomic 3's). The good news is that the car now turns the same both directions, even at high speeds. The bad news is that it turns wide like it would when turning right with the -3 knuckles in the rear, not sharp like it did when I turned left. I THINK what was happening was I was breaking traction in the rear when I turned left and that's why it appeared to turn sharper to the left. With the stock knuckles in the rear I no longer break traction.
NEXT STEP: I want to break traction in the rear when turning BOTH directions so I can make sharper turns. First change: Tires. I was running 8's in the front and rear (narrow front, wide rear). I changed to 20's in the rear and it still wouldn't break traction. I then tried NARROW 20's in the rear and I can just barely break traction if I go from no throttle to full throttle and do a sharp turn at the same time. This setup seems to work pretty good for me as I still maintain control (not breaking traction in the front) and can spin the back end around sharp turns to make them tighter.
The next time we race I'll be trying some additional changes with the toe, springs, spacers and possibly even wide tires in the front. If anyone has suggestions I welcome them.
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2006.12.17, 10:51 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Duluth, GA
Posts: 167
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Are you racing on RCP? What type of tire are you specifically using?
I tried some 10 Atomic radials in the front to see what they do and it didn't steer well and the RCP just chewed them down really fast. So far I liked the PN 18 narrow slick in the front the best.
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2006.12.19, 10:43 AM
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#12
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RacerTag: Drinian
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 328
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You know I'm not sure what brand the tires I'm using are. I think they're atomic. I prefer using tires that have had the tread worn off. I get way too much traction with new tires resulting in a lot of traction rolling.
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2006.12.19, 10:52 AM
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#13
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DCGTG FET Guy
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 3,444
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I have the same problem with mine hooking real hard on left turns and not turning as sharp on rights. I have atomic 3's in the rear, maybe I'll try some stock knuckles.
I figured that it had to be something binding in the rear suspension, maybe a stuck knuckle or wheel hitting a wheel well but it does it with different bodies and without the body. I also thought maybe a dogbone could be doing strange things or maybe one of the bearings is binding. I am going to play with it more tonight to see if I can dial it out too.
I don't mind if it's not as sharp in both directions, I can compensate as long as it's even.
Last edited by Spoon; 2006.12.19 at 10:55 AM.
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2006.12.19, 11:06 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 6,877
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could this possibly be a weight distribution issue with all the batteries on one side? maybe that is why you are getting more traction on one side then the other.??
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2006.12.19, 11:14 AM
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#15
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DCGTG FET Guy
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 3,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briankstan
could this possibly be a weight distribution issue with all the batteries on one side? maybe that is why you are getting more traction on one side then the other.??
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Maybe but I think everyone else that was running AWD (Willy Wong, Old Crow, etc) would have noticed it as well.
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