2020.09.17, 09:02 AM
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#61
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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Go to kyosho Japan's site and download the software again. Not sure if you used the USA site, but the software there isn't updated well on the usa site.
__________________
EMUracing
Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
Last edited by EMU; 2020.09.17 at 10:54 AM.
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2020.09.18, 10:21 AM
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#62
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMU
Go to kyosho Japan's site and download the software again. Not sure if you used the USA site, but the software there isn't updated well on the usa site.
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Thanks EMU, the Japanese sites version had the setting, and mine was cranked all the way to one side. I was so excited to fix it. Unfortunately something is still wrong and it doesn't seem to bind fully or it doesn't have proportional steering, but I haven't messed with that yet, so that is a post for another day. Ive done several builds with banggood asf and Kyosho ASF and VEPro boards and Ive never had this kind of trouble. Hopefully I'll get to try this car out someday.
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2020.09.18, 10:28 AM
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#63
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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Did you click display reset? I remember seeing that in a post somewhere to reset the board, then initialize, reconnect and adjust from there.
__________________
EMUracing
Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
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2020.09.27, 01:17 PM
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#64
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMU
Did you click display reset? I remember seeing that in a post somewhere to reset the board, then initialize, reconnect and adjust from there.
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Thanks everyone for all the help. Maybe someday I can drive this EVO build. I even have the ne Merc GT3 shell waiting for it.
I hit "display reset" and loaded those settings onto the board but still no luck. Here is what is happening:
- the wheels are centered now with power on
- when I turn the EX6R to the right wheels lock full right
- when I turn EX6R to the left wheels lock full left with servo motor still trying to turn more.
- The wheels do not return to center when the controller returns to center. I have to turn off the radio for them to center.
- there is no proportional steering. It is full right or full left.
I took the servo apart and made sure there was no binding. When I turn the potentiometer by hand, I can get the servo motor to be in neutral and turn slowly and quickly in each direction, but nothing like that in the car. I don't know yet if the throttle behaves, I haven't soldered on the motor wires. Another thing I haven’t been impressed with is all 3 motor wires have fallen off with minimal movement of the board during install.
At this point I dont know if there are more ICS settings I should try, I have a bad potentiometer, or something else is wrong with the board. If anyone has any ideas, that would be awesome. I'm glad this isn't my first experience with mini z, luckily I'm already hooked.
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2020.09.27, 02:02 PM
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#65
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bitPimp
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TPDazzle
Thanks everyone for all the help. Maybe someday I can drive this EVO build. I even have the ne Merc GT3 shell waiting for it.
I hit "display reset" and loaded those settings onto the board but still no luck. Here is what is happening:
- the wheels are centered now with power on
- when I turn the EX6R to the right wheels lock full right
- when I turn EX6R to the left wheels lock full left with servo motor still trying to turn more.
- The wheels do not return to center when the controller returns to center. I have to turn off the radio for them to center.
- there is no proportional steering. It is full right or full left.
I took the servo apart and made sure there was no binding. When I turn the potentiometer by hand, I can get the servo motor to be in neutral and turn slowly and quickly in each direction, but nothing like that in the car. I don't know yet if the throttle behaves, I haven't soldered on the motor wires. Another thing I haven’t been impressed with is all 3 motor wires have fallen off with minimal movement of the board during install.
At this point I dont know if there are more ICS settings I should try, I have a bad potentiometer, or something else is wrong with the board. If anyone has any ideas, that would be awesome. I'm glad this isn't my first experience with mini z, luckily I'm already hooked.
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Did you build this car yourself from parts? Coincidentally, I was just building a car with a banggood ASF board, and was having the same symptoms. I accidentally was soldering and switching a couple wires while I still had batteries in the car, and I thought I ruined the board, so I ordered a new one, and then had the same problem you describe above. I managed to figure it out, and felt pretty happy about it.
First, I tried every combination of the three pot wires and the two steering motor wires; either same result or worse. I got out the multimeter and started testing stuff. I read about how a potentiometer functions and how to test it, and found that mine wasn't reading as it should. I got out my magnifying goggles, and noticed a tiny, tiny dot of solder had fallen between two contacts on the potentiometer. If any of the 3 contacts on the pot are shorted (touching), or if you have any stray solder on the board connecting two of those pads, it will behave as you describe. Check to make sure all your solder joins are clean.
Mini Z pots are rated at 5k ohms, and if you put a multimeter in ohm mode and touch the two outer contacts on the pot, it should read very close to 5. If you contact the middle contact and one of the outer contacts, it should read somewhere between 1 and 5.
I would look at your potentiometer, and the wires/connections to the board.
Last edited by SuperFly; 2020.09.27 at 02:34 PM.
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2020.09.27, 04:22 PM
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#66
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperFly
Did you build this car yourself from parts? Coincidentally, I was just building a car with a banggood ASF board, and was having the same symptoms. I accidentally was soldering and switching a couple wires while I still had batteries in the car, and I thought I ruined the board, so I ordered a new one, and then had the same problem you describe above. I managed to figure it out, and felt pretty happy about it.
First, I tried every combination of the three pot wires and the two steering motor wires; either same result or worse. I got out the multimeter and started testing stuff. I read about how a potentiometer functions and how to test it, and found that mine wasn't reading as it should. I got out my magnifying goggles, and noticed a tiny, tiny dot of solder had fallen between two contacts on the potentiometer. If any of the 3 contacts on the pot are shorted (touching), or if you have any stray solder on the board connecting two of those pads, it will behave as you describe. Check to make sure all your solder joins are clean.
Mini Z pots are rated at 5k ohms, and if you put a multimeter in ohm mode and touch the two outer contacts on the pot, it should read very close to 5. If you contact the middle contact and one of the outer contacts, it should read somewhere between 1 and 5.
I would look at your potentiometer, and the wires/connections to the board.
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Thanks, I'll check it out. I am building this from parts, but the Kyosho boards come with everything soldered. The only thing I have connected so far is the Kyosho power to the 2.5 PN chassis. Ive used Banggood boards, and I know you have to solder the servo motor, pot. And motor onto the board. Kyosho boards are usually a lot simpler builds, but I seem to have a lemon. I will check the Potentiometer. Thanks for the info!
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2020.09.27, 04:52 PM
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#67
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 15
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I have an MR02 that suddenly the steering went out quite similar. I could turn it right but when I'd turn it left, it'd get stuck with the motor still spinning. Turns out is was one of the pot wires shorting to another wire right near the board, just the way they were soldered and bent. It was very difficult to diagnose.
I'd recommend going over the connections carefully even if factory done.
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