2006.01.02, 08:55 PM
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#1
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Rolling Chicane
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Madison, Alabama
Posts: 239
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Tire FAQ?
I'm looking to get some tires to replace the hard stock ones on my MR-02 and what I've found on various vendor's web sites is confusing. Is there a tire FAQ anywhere? If not, someone should consider creating one. I know that 10°, 20°, etc refer to the softness. But I still have other questions, such as:
- What is the diff between HT and MT? Does this refer to the thickness?
- What is the diff between radial, slick, grooved, and foam. I'm not interested in just the physical differences (I know the physical difference between a slick and a grooved tire), but when would you want one vs the other? And what is a radial?
- What do I need for an MR-02 running on Pep Boys foam mats? It's a pretty soft surface so I would think tha I'd need slicks.
Thanks.
Billy
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2006.01.03, 01:22 AM
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#2
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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Slicks are better for rougher surfaces, while treaded tires (radials) are better for smoother surfaces. The treads help keep the dust off of the contact patch.
I raced for a few months on foam mats which you can see some pics in my gallery http://www2.mini-zracer.com/gallery/EMU
On Pepboys mats, GPM 8d radials are best for the rear, and depending on the specific bodies handling you may want to vary between GPM 8d to Kyosho 20d slicks. I tend to prefer harder front tires. PN 18 fronts are pretty good too. I just got in a set of Atomic AW grooves which I havent had the chance to use yet. For an RM car I like to have softer front tires than an MM car.
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2006.01.03, 08:42 PM
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#3
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000-00-0001
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Rydal, GA
Posts: 695
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Hello Billy,
Where did you see HT and MT at? Radials and grooved are basically the same thing. A tire with some sort of tread pattern on them.
I have had pretty good luck with GPM Radials 8* various patterns.
10* slicks work pretty well aslo.
As far as front tires go 15* - 25* slicks give me a pretty balanced feel.
__________________
ATLANTA Mini Racing ATOMIC - GPM - Airtronics - Kyosho - Intellect - PN Racing
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2006.01.08, 02:22 PM
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#4
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Rolling Chicane
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Madison, Alabama
Posts: 239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun
Hello Billy,
Where did you see HT and MT at? Radials and grooved are basically the same thing. A tire with some sort of tread pattern on them.
I have had pretty good luck with GPM Radials 8* various patterns.
10* slicks work pretty well aslo.
As far as front tires go 15* - 25* slicks give me a pretty balanced feel.
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Shaun,
See this link for the HT & MT tires. Thanks for the tips.
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2006.01.08, 07:20 PM
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#5
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000-00-0001
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Rydal, GA
Posts: 695
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The MT tire is a treaded tire. Like Patrick was running. Not sure what HT is?
__________________
ATLANTA Mini Racing ATOMIC - GPM - Airtronics - Kyosho - Intellect - PN Racing
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2006.01.08, 08:54 PM
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#6
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Master of Thrash
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 4,980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun
Radials and grooved are basically the same thing. A tire with some sort of tread pattern on them.
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I can't say that those are the same. Radials have a scale tread for a scale look more than function. These are not far from a slick tire. Grooved tires have deeper grooves in them. They help keep a car straight at speed, usually used on the rear. Then you have other treaded tires like the Kyosho MT tires and the Atomic A.W. tires, that have those deep grooves in a pattern. These latter tires are made more for function than a scale look. If these where a 1:1 tire you can put your whole hand in the groove.
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2006.01.08, 09:03 PM
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#7
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000-00-0001
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Rydal, GA
Posts: 695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HammerZ
I can't say that those are the same. Radials have a scale tread for a scale look more than function. These are not far from a slick tire. Grooved tires have deeper grooves in them. They help keep a car straight at speed, usually used on the rear. Then you have other treaded tires like the Kyosho MT tires and the Atomic A.W. tires, that have those deep grooves in a pattern. These latter tires are made more for function than a scale look. If these where a 1:1 tire you can put your whole hand in the groove.
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Very true. Let's just call them treaded tires.
BTW the Atomic Grooved and the AW tires don't seem to work very well on my RCP track or our club track.
__________________
ATLANTA Mini Racing ATOMIC - GPM - Airtronics - Kyosho - Intellect - PN Racing
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2006.01.09, 09:40 AM
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#8
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Rolling Chicane
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Madison, Alabama
Posts: 239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun
Very true. Let's just call them treaded tires.
BTW the Atomic Grooved and the AW tires don't seem to work very well on my RCP track or our club track.
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You mean the Atomic Grooved tires like the ones I was running? What have you found that works well on our club track?
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2006.01.09, 11:09 AM
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#9
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000-00-0001
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Rydal, GA
Posts: 695
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The Atomic tires work fine for STOCK. But in the OPEN class at faster speeds I like the GPM 8* Radials. Patrick used some of the Kyosho treaded tires and they worked good. I haven't tried those tires.
__________________
ATLANTA Mini Racing ATOMIC - GPM - Airtronics - Kyosho - Intellect - PN Racing
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2006.01.09, 12:18 PM
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#10
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Rolling Chicane
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Madison, Alabama
Posts: 239
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The tires I ran were from Patrick, and unless I'm mistaken, they were Atomic. The rears were grooved and the fronts were slicks. Apart from absolute traction and speed, which tires, brand and/or type, would provide the setup that's easiest to drive? At this point I need to minimize my "on the wall" time and maximize my "on the track" time.
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2006.01.09, 12:23 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 6,877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bemoore
The tires I ran were from Patrick, and unless I'm mistaken, they were Atomic. The rears were grooved and the fronts were slicks. Apart from absolute traction and speed, which tires, brand and/or type, would provide the setup that's easiest to drive? At this point I need to minimize my "on the wall" time and maximize my "on the track" time.
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that would depend on if you are pushing into the walls or turning into the walls.
I you need more push go with a harder front tire like a gpm 15 or 20, if you need more steer in go with a softer front like a gpm 8 or 10
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2006.01.09, 02:37 PM
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#12
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Rolling Chicane
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Madison, Alabama
Posts: 239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briankstan
that would depend on if you are pushing into the walls or turning into the walls.
I you need more push go with a harder front tire like a gpm 15 or 20, if you need more steer in go with a softer front like a gpm 8 or 10
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How about both? I push into walls under accelleration and turn into them when I lift. I think it's mostly a driver problem.
Keep in mind that I'm a noob and I have a grand total experience of one race, and so what I'm about to say may have no bearing to reality. What I've heard in regard to the RM vs MM setup is that RM's are more "darty" and the MM's are more stable, making the RM's more suitable for tight tracks and MM's better for high speed sweeping layouts. In my one race there were 3 RM's, 1 MM (Shaun's), 1 MR-01, and 1 F1. Shaun's MM was by far the most stable. This may be a result of Shaun's driving, but it's beginning to look like the MM chassis would be easier to drive. On tight tracks the darty-ness of the RM may be an advantage if you have the skill to make use of it, but for the skill-challenged like myself, an easier to drive car would be preferable. That's why I'm going to convert my RM to an MM.
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2006.01.09, 04:28 PM
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#13
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000-00-0001
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Rydal, GA
Posts: 695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bemoore
How about both? I push into walls under accelleration and turn into them when I lift. I think it's mostly a driver problem.
Keep in mind that I'm a noob and I have a grand total experience of one race, and so what I'm about to say may have no bearing to reality. What I've heard in regard to the RM vs MM setup is that RM's are more "darty" and the MM's are more stable, making the RM's more suitable for tight tracks and MM's better for high speed sweeping layouts. In my one race there were 3 RM's, 1 MM (Shaun's), 1 MR-01, and 1 F1. Shaun's MM was by far the most stable. This may be a result of Shaun's driving, but it's beginning to look like the MM chassis would be easier to drive. On tight tracks the darty-ness of the RM may be an advantage if you have the skill to make use of it, but for the skill-challenged like myself, an easier to drive car would be preferable. That's why I'm going to convert my RM to an MM.
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I've driven both the RM and the MM cars, I can see where a MM would be good for a beginner. More stable. Not a night and day difference, the difference between to two is more apparent at higher speeds.
Driving does play a big role. As you get more track time in, the car will seem easier to drive. Practice, Practice, Practice.........
__________________
ATLANTA Mini Racing ATOMIC - GPM - Airtronics - Kyosho - Intellect - PN Racing
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2006.01.09, 10:49 PM
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#14
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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bemoore, you should look into the PN ML or Atomic 94mm MM motormount. With the MM t-plate, it will allow you to run RM bodies in an MM configuration. In combination with the 3Racing disc damper (can be used for RM or MM configurations) you should have a winning setup
Practice letting off throttle in the turns, but not fully coasting. You need a little throttle in the turns to keep it running smooth. I usually let off of throttle just before turning in, as I turn in I feed about half throttle (depending on the angle of the turn) and as I hit the apex, I open up to full throttle and straighten out.
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2006.01.10, 05:03 PM
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#15
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Rolling Chicane
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Madison, Alabama
Posts: 239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMU
Practice letting off throttle in the turns, but not fully coasting. You need a little throttle in the turns to keep it running smooth. I usually let off of throttle just before turning in, as I turn in I feed about half throttle (depending on the angle of the turn) and as I hit the apex, I open up to full throttle and straighten out.
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This may be my problem. I fully let off approaching a turn, and my push turns into oversteer. If I back off too early, I turn into the wall. If I back off too late, I push into it. I'll have to practice this.
Thanks.
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