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Old 2006.05.08, 03:46 PM   #1
sciencemike
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MA-010-MR-02 AD board set Conversion

How To Install the MR-02 AD board into the MA-010.

PICTURE 0- MR02 AD Board set-What comes in the box.


Heres the AD board setup. There are a few things different from the MA-010 board, besides the obvious. First you see there are three POT wires. Secondly the ON/Off switch wire placement is different. Lastly, the plug is on the bottom side of the board.

PICTURE 1-AD Board spread out.


So the general swapping goes as followed.
1. Change the connection to the other side of the board.
2. Change the servo motor power connections.
3. Extend the ON/OFF switch wires
4. Replace the ON/OFF switch with the MA-010ís
5. Dremmel out a hole in the top plate for the new connection terminal.

PICTURE 2. Heres the pin we need to remove.(Sorry about the blurry photo I get my camera back later this week from the shop.)


Mark the inside of the connection with a pen so you can place it in corrently. Just keep the same side of the pin toward the inside of the board. This makes sure you can plug in the connection to your computer and the pins are still lined up correctly.. So remember to keep the same pins in the same holes...

To remove the connection just place some solder wick on the connection pins on the top side of the board. Heat the wick and slide out the pins.
Heres what it should look like.

PICTURE 3-Connector out of board laying next to pin holes.


Next we see two pieces of the board that donít allow us to sit the connection down all the way. So we need to file down the connection to make it sit all the way down.

PICTURE 4-In this photo you can see where the connector goes-purple- and the offending pieces of the board-red arrows.


So you just grind down the connection and it fits like a charm.

PICTURE 5-Dremmeld down connector.


PICTURE 6-Assebled board.



Thatís the hard part. Then just reverse the servo motor wires- Red and Black..
PICTURE 7-Servo wire swap. The purple arrow shows what wires to reverse.


Insert the New Pot into the servo unit. Swap On/Off switches, add in a Ĺ inch of wire to the ON/OFF switch wire.

Lastly just dremmel out a hole in your pcb cover and you are ready to play.

PICTURE 8- Car reassebled.


Then you can set your EX-10 or mars controller on super high speed and enjoy how much faster the car responds.
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Old 2006.05.08, 04:22 PM   #2
Spoon
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Nice post Mike. I think it should be posted in the FAQ
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Old 2006.05.08, 04:45 PM   #3
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Ah, very nice. The connection terminal switch will make it easier to hook up to the pc, a lot easier... Great Job Science Mike!
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Old 2006.05.08, 07:06 PM   #4
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Nice write up sciencemike. Can I make a couple of suggestions? (I'll wait for your reply)
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Old 2006.05.08, 07:44 PM   #5
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This is an invitation for anyone to comment, either good or bad (on all my posts)... Please we post here to help each other out. If i did somthing wrong or bad let me know, or if there is a way to make it better please let me/us know.

As long as its not... Your picture is fuzzy. - I know my good camera is in the shop...
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Old 2006.05.08, 11:14 PM   #6
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@ sciencemike you didn't do anything wrong. I just don't want to step on your tutorial (toes).

Ok here goes the suggestions/alternatives

On the on/off switch you can use the AD one by snipping the 2 metal tabs off. Swap the 2 white wires around. Solder the long one to where the short one is on the board and on the switch. Put the short one where the long one was on the board and switch. These are now long enough without extensions or making new wires.

If you are not going to screw the pos and neg wires from the board to the wires from the battery box on the inner plastic cover but solder the wires direct from board to battery box tabs, you can just snip the center fin on the plastic cover to make enough room for the white computer connector to fit. No need to remove and mod the connector. The center fin is the vertical piece between the screw holes in the inner cover.
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Old 2006.05.08, 11:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipstream
On the on/off switch you can use the AD one by snipping the 2 metal tabs off. Swap the 2 white wires around. Solder the long one to where the short one is on the board and on the switch. Put the short one where the long one was on the board and switch. These are now long enough without extensions or making new wires.

If you are not going to screw the pos and neg wires from the board to the wires from the battery box on the inner plastic cover but solder the wires direct from board to battery box tabs, you can just snip the center fin on the plastic cover to make enough room for the white computer connector to fit. No need to remove and mod the connector. The center fin is the vertical piece between the screw holes in the inner cover.
I like it i like it a lot. So you are saying use the computer connector and just run it out of the body through the center of the chassis and up, just like the motor wires (Kind of but more up front). I was considering it but then i thought i would have to either leave the connection in all the time, or lift the board up every time i use the connection. I figured i would just do it once and be done.

As for the wires thats a great idea about the swapping them and just trimming trimming the ON/Off switch. I love it. I was also considering that option. Glad someone else tried it and it works.. Great job!

The only software i found was downloadable in Japanese..-do you have an english version. Also do you know if its possible to make a RS323 to Ko board connector?
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Old 2006.05.09, 12:32 AM   #8
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I need to clarify about the computer plug idea. It was for those that aren't going to play with the settings on the AD board. It was a quick way to fit the board in the chassis. If you are going to mess with plugging the connector to a computer then your mod works well. Other way is to completely remove the connector off the board and put it on the side of the chassis where there is a covered opening for it. You have to hold it in place with a small piece of dummy PC board and the connector mounted to it and with 3 wires trailing back to the AD board.

I have not found an English version of the software but here's is a link to the English instructions.

Mini Z HG Manager Look for it about 2/3 way down the page.

It's Adobe PDF and I had to install the Japanese fonts for it to show the English

The way the connector cable looks is simple. You can get all the parts. The thing I'm not sure is which pin goes where on the RS232

Last edited by Slipstream; 2006.05.09 at 12:35 AM.
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Old 2006.05.09, 12:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipstream
I need to clarify about the computer plug idea. It was for those that aren't going to play with the settings on the AD board. It was a quick way to fit the board in the chassis. If you are going to mess with plugging the connector to a computer then your mod works well. Other way is to completely remove the connector off the board and put it on the side of the chassis where there is a covered opening for it. You have to hold it in place with a small piece of dummy PC board and the connector mounted to it and with 3 wires trailing back to the AD board.

I have not found an English version of the software but here's is a link to the English instructions.

Mini Z HG Manager Look for it about 2/3 way down the page.

It's Adobe PDF and I had to install the Japanese fonts for it to show the English

The way the connector cable looks is simple. You can get all the parts. The thing I'm not sure is which pin goes where on the RS232
I have a downloadable version of the software i found on the kyosho website. But unfortunately its in japanese... I could give you the link if you want it..
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Old 2006.05.09, 01:49 AM   #10
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I have the Japanese version of the software too. I got it from the KO Propo site.
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Old 2006.05.11, 03:00 AM   #11
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Nice work!

Are you running the AD board without the "heat insulation sheet" used on the original board?

How is performance compared to the original board?
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Old 2006.05.11, 04:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Are you running the AD board without the "heat insulation sheet" used on the original board?
My sheet, the little grey one, i thought it was for insulation of electrical components. Aka Capacitor wires touching the board.. I had no idea it was for heat. ANyways yes i keep mine attached to the chassis just above the motor.

As for the performance. I have tried many motors in it, and im sticking to a long arm. silver comm, 30 AWG wire and 44 turns, full BB can, Silver/carbon brushes. The fets get warm if the motor is stalled for a couple of seconds, but the crazy thing about this board is its way they stacked the fets.. Yes the board comes standard with 3004's stacked 2x2. Look at the picture, thats the top of the board and the bottom has two fets as well. The reason i believe they did this was i couldnt fit my MA010 under the Atomic VDS body with stacked fets. So if you stack them flat you get better heat dissipation and you can run the atomic body-with a 98mm extension of course. But the fets suck. Plain and simple. I almost burned them out with a 35 turn 2x wrapped motor.

Anyways as for the performance, i love it. Its sooo much quicker response time. Im using my helios EX-10 controller and i set it to the high speed setting. The response time is INSTANT. It makes the regular board seem to respond like an XMOD in comparison. As i have said before im not the best driver, but this will surely help out a lot. This board has no twitch or glitch at all(Thank god for FM). Thats awesome. I even removed the capacitors from the motor to make armature changes easier. Still no glitching EVER!!!! Plus that means more motor power!

The only thing that is a negative for this board is that it seems to need a longer antenna. If you use the same size antenna used for the stock board will make the car behave strangely in some places. Therefore, i doubled the length of the antenna and it works like a charm now..

Unfortunately this board is destined for a different car, and i have to switch it out this weekend ..

Please ask away... Ill be going to MotorFX races tonight so ill let you know how well it works compared to the rest of the field..
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Old 2006.05.12, 02:50 AM   #13
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great write up mike, im just not talented enough to this myself, maybe ill just wait til its available to the AWD specifically

btw: can u use AD band from mr02 to a mr015?
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Old 2006.05.15, 12:57 AM   #14
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Quote:
btw: can u use AD band from mr02 to a mr015?
if i remember it right, kyosho came out with ad band chassis available both for the mr02 (it came with the black enzo body) and mr015 (it came with the white r32 skyline body)... just don't know if was released in the u.s.

hope this helps
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Old 2006.05.19, 08:39 AM   #15
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Haven't had time to do the AD swap for my AWD, but I ran my AD-converted mr-02 for the first time yesterday. I've had a lot of problem with strange behaviour (glitches) on certain parts of the track (the others also have the same problems) and the AD-band solved it all!

Too bad I only brought parts for running it as MM (normally runs RM), as the car had no rear traction whatsoever on our slick track.

BTW: I have the Helios module and was going to modify it for my 3PK, but ended up using it in my MarsR without any problems. I've read that this combination could cause problems
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