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Old 2015.08.17, 07:46 PM   #106
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Some updated photos




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Old 2015.08.19, 08:28 AM   #107
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NIMH Good or Bad?

Working on putting together a NIMH prototype. Probably won't go any further than just making one for myself so that I can take it and compete at other tracks beside my local track just to show the proof of Concept of my design. Anyways if you feel like this could be something worthwhile to you send me a pm or email me.
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Old 2015.08.29, 03:44 PM   #108
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Had a great race in terms of making strides with the car. Car was dialed I just choked. Picked up a third place finish but the transponder was only couting intermintantly. qualified 5th (had some trouble in qualifying with transponder counting and a couple of incidents) would have been close for qualifying 3rd. At the start of the race made it to the front but the car did not really seem to come in until the latter half of the race. Car has same pace as the leaders just have to work on the driver errors and getting the setup (mainly tires) to work from the outset of the race. Here is the video (green car transponder stops counting): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQCDLH4aTLk

Setup:
Front:
X-power upper mount with ~1.5 camber
1 degree toe out
Reflex racing low profile front suspension reverse kingpin (spring Under)
- silver spring
- .6mm under knuckle (atomic F.S. knuckle)
- .4mm above knuckle
- PN15 slicks trued to 22.0mm sidewalls glued
-2mm RH

Rear:
side shock dampning: 10K grease (probable needs 15 but I don't have any)
- green side springs (long type)
- center shock (pn) purple center spring with a-arm bronze rebound (stick with stiff rebound springs)
- PN 6 (car generates more rear grip because of how far forward the pivot ball is hence the use of 6 and not 5) Car seems to work well on the 6's even after the tread is nearly gone.
-2mm RH

Running the novak spy esc decased on top of the servo and a 50t bb pn motor, diff is pretty loose.
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Old 2015.08.29, 04:19 PM   #109
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nizF...ature=youtu.be

Put some fresh tires on after the race and the car was even better. Fought flipping the whole night ( as did most everybody else) but I think I found the culprit. My center shock was pretty angled so I have made it level and also taken out some caster as I was running something more than 4. hopefully this will eliminate that and I can run without the CA on the edge.
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Old 2015.08.31, 09:05 PM   #110
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Finaly cleaned up the wiring situation to relocate the transponder:
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Old 2015.09.29, 06:13 PM   #111
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Update: (RCP)

Been working a lot with the car and have made some headway on the setup:

Front:
- A-Arm with teal or yellow V3 springs
- 2mm rideheight (any less and the car will bottom out due to soft springs)
- .5mm droop
- least caster (with my mounting it is 2 deg caster)
- Most camber
- PN 15 slick trued to 22.00 with glued sidewall (if using X sometimes you can get away without glue depending on the batch and setup)

Rear:
- 2mm RH
- PN Blue centershock springs on the side shocks
- PN Purple center shock spring on center shock
- 10K lube all around (thicker would be better but I do not have anything thicker)
- If you run orange on the side springs with extra grease you can run no sidewall glue without flipping (I will be testing this more next time I am at the track as it should be faster this way).
- PN 6 radials ONLY
- Do not use 5 as they push, cause flipping, and wear out too soon. 6's last till the tread is gone and if you groove them a little longer but still not nearly as long as foam
- .2mm anti dive (.2mm more on the sidelink location on the main chassis)
- helps with flipping, opposite gives more steering
Wheelbase: 98

Body: well at least on RCP ASC bodies are much faster and forgiving, next raceday I will be testing with a McLaren MP4-12c GT3 ASC. Was thinking about making some ASC mounts but decided against it since the new PN chassis requires holes drilled in the McLaren so there is no need for them if people are going to drill holes for that nimh frankenstien 02 .

Also found some really lightweight and low down 2s batteries on ebay. 500mah and their dimensions are 43x24x13 so they would lower the cg in the rear by 6mm. I have ordered some but they are on the slow boat from china so it should be a while before I get those in.

Also I have been asked about providing an rtr chassis minus reciever and radio and am working on a couple different options but so far it look like for brushless with the std 03 front end with a lexan body, and the HW bl esc it would be 450$. Using Atomic BL esc would be 480$ and so too would be a brushed option (only viable esc that I could buy new is the tekin b1r). After that the A-Arm style would of course be more and if you are on a budget I could probably throw a chassis together at around 400$ or a little less using cheapy hobbyking electronics but I would prefer not to because using lower quality electronics kinda defeats the purpose of the chassis. If you are interested in this send me a PM and we can work something out. FYI because there is a lot of time and skill that goes into assembling a complete chassis the wait time after payment is recieved would probably be closer to 5 weeks.

+ I have designed a protoype front suspension that should be here by mid-october that could potentially drop that price by about 20-30 dollars and keep the same adjustability, plus the option to run in wide or narrow or anything in between.
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Old 2015.10.18, 06:21 PM   #112
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Worked with the 458 body but eventually went back to the lexan as i am just more comfortable with the lexan characteristics. I also found a setup that really worked. I played with the front roll center and ended up with .4mm under the upper tower bar for the a arm front suspension. I also played with the rear roll center/anti-dive. I put .6mm of shims under the forward mounting point of the the rear sidelinks. This really settled the car and I was able to keep up with the mrx chassis.

For the front I use the new ks firm with the sidewalls glued and trued to 22.0mm. I glue my tires straight onto the rims so I have extra grip and have to glue the sidewall too but when I just use tape i don't have to glue the sidewall. I used the teal v3 springs in the front on the a arm with 2nd most camber and least amount of caster. I also have about 1 degree of toe out. At the rear I use the new ks ss tires with on yellow sidesprings [short ones] and a white center spring with a bronze a arm spring for the rebound.

I was using a 50t motor which works well but i think that I was just to underpowered on exit because of the week magnets. I had good and bad luck in the most recent race, I qualified 3rd and was very close to 2nd but in the main I had trouble early, fought back with some luck up to 2nd but in the end chocked and made multiple mistakes in the last min and ended up 4th. In the main the car pushed bad because of some setup changes I took a chance on. overall a really good race and I think I can start challenging for the win against the mrx platforms right now I think my motor selection and my radio situation are holding me back a bit but I have some proto front end parts to try with reactive caster and a new light weight battery to try that should significantly lower my cg. I will post back with thr next results. Anyways here is the video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dgGfJn60LvI
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Old 2015.12.28, 03:36 PM   #113
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So it has been a while, but I have made some positive progress on the electronics side of things. I had kinda pushed off testing the new chassis the last month or more because I was struggling on the RCP with both this chassis and the MRX but Recently I have found a winning combo with my MRX and it was so good I had won 4 of my last 5 races. Anyways I thought now would be a good time to evaluate what needs work and I decided the major issue was the electronics. So I set out to work to get an asf board to work as it is decidely better than anything else (the brushed that is). So within 1 hour with the volt meter and some careful soldering I got it all hooked up and so here is a quick video of it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqBqz7qHaO4

Later I will put it in the car and get some testing done, hopefully this will solve a lot of the issues I had with glitching and CG.

If anyone is intersted I will try and do a tutorial for the whole proccess but unless there is a want I think that it is self explanantory.
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Old 2015.12.28, 05:26 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMALMAD View Post
So it has been a while, but I have made some positive progress on the electronics side of things. I had kinda pushed off testing the new chassis the last month or more because I was struggling on the RCP with both this chassis and the MRX but Recently I have found a winning combo with my MRX and it was so good I had won 4 of my last 5 races. Anyways I thought now would be a good time to evaluate what needs work and I decided the major issue was the electronics. So I set out to work to get an asf board to work as it is decidely better than anything else (the brushed that is). So within 1 hour with the volt meter and some careful soldering I got it all hooked up and so here is a quick video of it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqBqz7qHaO4

Later I will put it in the car and get some testing done, hopefully this will solve a lot of the issues I had with glitching and CG.

If anyone is intersted I will try and do a tutorial for the whole proccess but unless there is a want I think that it is self explanantory.
Did you gut a servo and use the mini-z servo motor and pot?
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Old 2015.12.28, 07:56 PM   #115
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Quote:
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Did you gut a servo and use the mini-z servo motor and pot?
Nope just took the servo controller board out of the servo and wired the servo's motor and potentiometer up to the kyosho board.
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Old 2015.12.28, 08:24 PM   #116
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Installed:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0Qljv3DrlA
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Old 2015.12.28, 08:41 PM   #117
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the response and recentering time look fantastic compared to some of the alternatives i've driven. the biggest thing holding me back from getting into the this class has always been never being able to match Kyosho board steering characteristics. some are quick but don't recenter well or feel like they wander. others recenter but slowly and or lack the steering speed. it looks like you've solved that problem
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Old 2015.12.28, 08:57 PM   #118
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the response and recentering time look fantastic compared to some of the alternatives i've driven. the biggest thing holding me back from getting into the this class has always been never being able to match Kyosho board steering characteristics. some are quick but don't recenter well or feel like they wander. others recenter but slowly and or lack the steering speed. it looks like you've solved that problem
Thanks, yeah it seems kyosho really got it right with their asf boards.
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Old 2015.12.30, 01:39 PM   #119
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What servo? Sorry TLDR :-)
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Old 2015.12.30, 01:39 PM   #120
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corona cs929 mg?

http://www hobbyking com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=70228

Last edited by mleemor60; 2015.12.30 at 02:59 PM. Reason: link with pricing
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