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Old 2011.01.13, 09:25 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by lfisminiz View Post
OK, what i have is........

from track to bottom of chassis with stiffner on, batts in, it looks to be about 2MM or a little less. Its pretty much the same from front to back. The stiffner is 1MM thick. You could have stiffner on and still go lower for sure. My A-arm cars are lower in front. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the info lfisminiz. This does help a lot. I'm ordering the 03 CF chassis stiffener plate ASAP
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Old 2011.01.14, 04:30 AM   #17
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No problem and have fun!
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Old 2011.01.23, 09:02 PM   #18
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going to bite on this one... Did you run the thing yet? at 42 bucks it better be the cats a$$
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Old 2011.01.23, 09:33 PM   #19
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going to bite on this one... Did you run the thing yet? at 42 bucks it better be the cats a$$
I did run it. I like it BUT, i wont really no more till i get to a bigger track and do more testing.
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Old 2011.01.23, 09:45 PM   #20
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If nothing else this Kyosho MR03 carbon chassis bottom plate does make the Mini-Z look more 1/10th-ish when looking at the bottom profile of the 03....
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Old 2011.01.24, 12:21 AM   #21
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i have put brass or copper rods on the bottom of the 03 chassis, the groove between the batteries. it helps alot to make chassis stiffer. im starting to move back to the 02 chassis. granted the one 02 i am running does have the pn a arm. i do not like the top plate on the 03 i feel they warp real bad at the damper mounts. and you have to buy a complete chassis t just get the top plate. im no top drive by any standard so i dont feel i would lose or gain anything time wise from either chassis. and from what ive seen at big events most all the top guys run 02.
hello chad...any pic for ur mod on this 03 chassis...it's help a lot,thx
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Old 2011.01.24, 07:03 AM   #22
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moz - Here is a pic of what Chad is doing.




Taken from RR's blog spot.
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Old 2011.01.24, 07:39 AM   #23
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the only thing i am doing different from the above is running the rod the entire length and super glueing it in the entire length as well. trust me it takes all the flex out of the chassis. the only down side is it add 4 grams to the car.
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Old 2011.01.24, 11:08 AM   #24
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Oops...thats setup came from our master 9 times world champions....thx hrdrvr,chad508 and CT
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Old 2011.01.24, 11:28 AM   #25
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no problem. he showed me this trick at the worlds and ive been using it ever since. one thing i found was the little battery tabs that you see in the pic, if you bend them up and then force the rod in the rod will sit perfectly level.you do have to grind the tab flat afterwards but it does nothing that will hurt the car.
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Old 2011.01.24, 11:40 AM   #26
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looks like this setup is much2 cheaper then the kyosho carbon plate....sorry for asking again,what kind of rod is that?...looks a like a welding rod to me...
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Old 2011.01.24, 12:05 PM   #27
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i beilive ct used a brass rod. i used a copper rod. should be no difference what is used as long as its stiff. i found them at a local craft store, i just picked out a size that fit best without sticking out below the chassis
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Old 2011.01.24, 11:03 PM   #28
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will try it out,thx again
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Old 2011.02.20, 11:23 AM   #29
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well this thread died.. ok more results please? instead of brass or copper rods on the bottom I used carbon rods from a tail boom off my heli. it adds almost no wiegt but it stiffens the chassis fore and aft
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Old 2011.02.20, 03:44 PM   #30
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So did I... and then I bought an SP chassis to compare and found out the modified stock chassis and SP chassis are quite similar in stiffness lol. I'll be transferring all my shiny bits from the modded black chassis to the new SP soon (I stripped a screw hole in the front end... didn't know that was possible with my weakling hands).

I also don't think there's too much to be said here: grippier track => stiffer chassis, slippery track => softer chassis. Adjust till it feels right.
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