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Old 2005.02.20, 01:23 PM   #1
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: California
Posts: 2,072
Tips and Tricks on the NML SSV.3

How to break-in the SSV.2 & SSV.3 motor and possibly other motors.

The following are a few simples steps to break-in the SSV.3 motor. Unlike other motors, the SSV.3 don't require the 5 minute break-in, or dipping in water, etc.
Simply remove from motor mount. Have electric motor cleaner handy. These are readily available at your local hobby shops. There are two holes on the motor can, and one hole on the back side of the endbell. You can spray from either side, whichever is more accesible.

With both the radio and the car turned on, remove the motor from the motor mount. Make sure that your antenna does not touch the motor in any way, especially the positive or negative. This may cause short circuit.
Put the tip of the motor spray's nozzle thru the hole and give it a quick spritz. Spray just a tid bit, or enough just to "wet" the commutator (copper part of motor where between the two carbon brushes) Do not overspray! You only need to give it a quick Pzzt!

Pull on the throttle immediately, about 1/3 of the way. Stay on this position for about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Then stop. Give motor a quick spritz again, this time, a little more than the first. Spray enough for the solvent to drip a little outside of the can. It's best to have the endbell on the downside, so that the excess solvent will drip down the hole on the rear part of the endbell. Then, rev halfway for approx. 2 - 3 seconds, then rev all the way. Spray one more time, then full rev. This cleans the contact points and at the same time, establishes a good connection between the commutator and the brushes.

I personally spray before every run. The subsequent sprays can just be one quick spray, then rev. This helps keep the contact points clean. It's not necessary to remove the motor from motor mount during each and every spray. Simply shoot thru the two holes, pointing at the commutator. Make sure to not stick the motor cleaner's tip into the motor can too far in, because it may scratch the surface of the comm or severely affect the tension of the brushes.

As for the bearings, during racing, this will eventually attract dirt, which may get in between the balls. This may affect performance of any motor. To clean motor bearings and motor, start cleaning from the inside first, but spraying generously for the dirt or contaminants to flow out. Wipe off with a cloth. Spray outside of motor, especially around bearings, the wipe off again. Make sure to use lubricant on the bearings. I personally use lite-oil, where it's not so thick and easily seeps into the tiny bearings. Do not put too much, for it may foul the contact points of the motor. You just need to put enough to have lubrication on the bearings.

It is not neccesary to break down the motor ( as in disassembling it.) There will be a good chance that doing this may even affect performance of the motor. Motors should only be completely torn down if there is a debry that prevents the armature from rotating or if the commutator needs to be cut or resurfaced and rebuilt. Cutting the comm or resurfacing is required after a few months of racing. Because the two brushes rub against the commutator, the roundness or smoothness of the comm eventually becomes uneven, due to friction. Think of it as a brake rotor that needs to be turned during brake replacement. I do provide this service and by doing periodic rebuild, the motor will last you pretty much for as long as 3-4 years, unlike other motors that cannot be rebuilt. Basically it pays for itself in the long run.

Should one run the motor outside, such as a parking lot, the motor may attract metallic dusts, due to the Neo magnets. Simply get a masking tape and stick it to the affected area, and the debris will be pulled off by the tape. Repeat if necessary.

Always be careful around the motor brush tabs (where the positive and the negative go) Pulling too hard may cause brush tabs to break or may throw off brush alignment.

Race Tips for the NML SSV.2 & SSV.3 motor and possibly other motors.

If you plan to run fully charged 800 mah batteries till it's drained, like me, TNB and Joe do in Las Vegas, or in other words, endurance racing, I highly recommend using an Alloy motor mount. This will disipate the heat and will help prolong the life and performance of the motor. In addition, the number one enemy of motors are gear mesh and overgearing. I highly discourage people from using
any pinions above 10 teeth. Anything above 7 teeth pinions should only be used for huge tracks, like the Rialto Mini speedway.

I personally use 9 tooth on my McLaren when I'm at Rialto (Microzone) and 7 tooth on TNB's track. Basically, the more technical the track, the less teeth. The less technical, where one may open up (gun it), then gear up accordingly.

Wire Connection: The positive of the SSV.3 is where the negative would be on the stock motor. It's the other way around. I will post pictures on how to solder the wires so that it does not interfere with shock settings.

To determine gear mesh, simply remove the wheel next to the ball diff. Looking at both the spur and the pinion, make sure that there isn't too much gap, but at the same time, not too close to each other. There should not be too much resistance when you rotate the spur gear with your index finger or thumb. Push the car forward. There will be a slight resistance due to the neo magnets, but you will feel the difference when you know that the gear mesh is too tight. Also, if you move the spur gear minutely, and you feel a play, and when you look at the gear mesh and there's quite a bit of gap, tighten it up a little so that the spur gear will last longer.

It is always good to start with a brand new set of batteries that have been broken in to get the full potential of the motor. Batteries that have been used several times are not as good as new ones, of course.

For extra punch, and this may only make a slight difference, use a super capacitor (will have additional info. on this later).

Ball diff adjustment: I recommend loosening up the ball diff a little moreso than usual. This will help prevent spinouts.

If the ball diff is set too tight or set-up as normal, the car will be uncontrollable coming off of a turn. The advantage of the NML SSV.3 is that it maintain it's generous amounts of torque & RPM so one may loosen up ball diff to a point where other motors would suffer due to lack of torque and RPM. Top speed is very slightly compromised, but still proved to be faster than other mod motors even when the ball diff was loose, based on comprehensive testing. Adjust accordingly, but don't be scared to loosen it up more than you would normally do. I highly recommend PN or Kyosho Ball diffs because they are smooth.

Lubes for Ball Diff: I use (thanks to Kai at Minizworld) RD-50 dry lube. or one may use light ball diff grease. Personally, I set-up the ball diff, where it is slightly giving off the "clutch" effect. With this set-up, I simply let off the throttle a quick millisecond and then as soon as I feel the ball diff lock up or engage, then, I gun it semi-aggressively. The SSV.3 motor spools up to top speed right away, so you don't have to be super aggressive on the throttle.

Tires: On an RCP Track, I recommend GPM 8's on the rears, and anywhere from 10 - 20 on the fronts. Atomic tires can be used for the fronts, but definitely 8's on the rears for ultimate bite.

Camber: I personally use 2 - 3 degrees, see what best suits your driving style.
Caster: I like 0 or slightly toe - out.

The motor comes with a 3 month warranty, and the condition of the motor will be examined. If there is a clear sign of neglect and abuse, warranty is voided and fees will apply. Rebuild service is also available for a very small fee. Rebuild may consist anywhere anywhere from cutting the commutator, cleaning the insides and brush replacement, all the way to a complete tear down (rewind).

Pictures will be posted for visual guidance later today or tomorrow. Thanks for your patience, and thank you for trying out my creations. I hope you enjoy it.

Please note that some of the set-ups here are based on my testing. It may or may not fit your driving style. Simply adjust according to your liking.
http://www reflexracing net
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Old 2005.02.20, 03:49 PM   #2
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Location: Sao Paulo - Brazil
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Thank you, NML!!
Can't wait until my Fet stack is ready... and to kick some asses around my Z friends
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