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Old 2005.05.26, 11:12 AM   #16
MrHawk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy
However, now it seems you are telling us the springs don't compress straight up and down it sounds like they bow out instead. If that's the case the reason you get softer movement is because the whole spring isn't working only the few coils in the area of the spring that bends are working. Fewer working coils = a lower spring rate and softer suspension.
It does compress just as before if you set it up properly (angle the top and bottom shock parts untill you see it's working properly) there is no bowing of the springs, they might bow a millimeter or two (as they actually do on a real flexy offroader), but that's not a problem we have had. The springs bowing is the main reason we decided to keep the stock upper part of the damper, simply because it steers the spring upwards and preventing bowing. We did however try a bit different setups before this, with various results, but this setup works very well, atleast for us crawlers.


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If the mod works well for you and you're happy with it you should use it and share it with others. Thanks for doing so.

Davemud
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Old 2005.05.26, 10:12 PM   #17
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I'm a crawler too.

Actually I couldn't care less about racing but I do like driving rally style too. I just put some pics in my album of some of my indoor rocks and trail pieces I've made. My main thing is crawling and trail driving bt I haven't had the problems you talk about with the LSSM.

The 04 in the pics doesn't have any shock mods as I haven't really needed to do any. With that body I'd have to raise it if I increasedthe travel and its already high enough.

http://www2.mini-zracer.com/gallery/Easy

DM
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Old 2005.05.29, 02:27 PM   #18
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Works vety well=D

Me and my brother tried this mod today and it's works very wel.

Well what im trying to say is that everyone should test it. It is so simple:P


Edit: Very bad spelling

Last edited by Seb; 2005.05.29 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 2005.07.06, 07:47 PM   #19
machine
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Well I tested it last night and it works good. I'm going to keep it on my OL as the Hummer body requires short shafts on the LSSM mod.
I'm not roosting my OL in the dirt so going slow for crawling is perfect. I've also noticed that a small styrene tube may fit over the top part of the shock, it would extend it down a few millimeters helping to keep the spring from bowing out to the side while the body shifts around on the chassis. Kinda like a shaft, only not a thru shaft.
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Old 2005.07.18, 08:23 PM   #20
Joefullager
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sorry to dig this thread up again but i was searching and found it , so i thaught it should be a sticky.

I just completed the LLSM
and personally i am 100% happy about this ,
Its so much better . I love the way it compresses wich is really smooth and i would definatly reccomend to any other newbies or infact anyone who hasnt tried it . Its really great for off-road the ground clearance is brilliant and i love the articulation it provides. I made some washers of my own to keep the top from moving side to side using a medium thickness rubber from a micro rc .

Thanks a great deal for making this tutorial it was easy to follow >
i was really suprised how easy this mod was and yet so effective

ima have to get some of those o-rings and crank up the height even more.

thanks ,
joe

p.s - i did this on a stock overland x5 for refference .
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Old 2005.07.18, 09:46 PM   #21
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can somebody explain why theres shocks on the link... does it work any better or what?
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Old 2005.07.19, 12:04 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seven
can somebody explain why theres shocks on the link...
That looks odd. The shocks in place of the upper links would allow the gearbox to pivot around the the pillow ball where the a-arm attaches. Seems like it would throw off the geometry of the suspension and affect steering under flex or when hitting bumps.

Hmmmm.... odd. Not sure about that one. IMO, the upper links should be solid to keep everything lined up correctly.
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Old 2005.07.19, 03:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seven
can somebody explain why theres shocks on the link... does it work any better or what?
[ IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/qdubbya/gpm_mol1332_b_1.jpg[/IMG]
And what has that got to do with our NSSM mod?
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Old 2005.07.19, 05:55 PM   #24
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cuz you ****s usually dont answer if i just post it anywhere else. dont be a ****.
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Old 2005.07.21, 01:56 AM   #25
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Well obviously people dont like you for a reason... lol jk man

Anywho back on topic, can someone do a side by side articulation shots of both just so I can see which will be better for crawling and general slow offroading...
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Old 2005.07.21, 04:50 AM   #26
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There's no difference in articulation if you do any of them properly, the lower link ball is what limits articulation.

But the NSSM is way smoother.
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Old 2005.07.21, 01:39 PM   #27
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Ahh, ok thnx man!
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Old 2005.07.21, 02:11 PM   #28
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mrhawk, i noticed this earlier... is there any modification yo ucan do to the pillow balls or the a-arms to allow for more flex?
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Old 2005.07.21, 02:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seven
mrhawk, i noticed this earlier... is there any modification yo ucan do to the pillow balls or the a-arms to allow for more flex?
Yes, you could flip the arms over, but since they're a bit angeld you get som other issues. I have done this by custom bending the A-arms.

But you dont gain alot because the upper arms are not far from max either.
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Old 2005.07.21, 03:45 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHawk
Yes, you could flip the arms over, but since they're a bit angeld you get som other issues. I have done this by custom bending the A-arms.

But you dont gain alot because the upper arms are not far from max either.


I been messing with this and I cant get the pillow balls outta the a-arms.. any tips?

also..anybody ever tried rubber bands for the top links??
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