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Old 2018.11.01, 09:11 PM   #1
Qball41
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Putting a Porsche 962 body on a MR-03

I have a 98mm MR-03 and I'd like to put a 102mm body on it. Is there a different rear pod I can change to that would give me the 102mm wheel base?
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Old 2018.11.01, 10:11 PM   #2
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The inexpensive way to switch is to get the Kyosho LM rear motor mount set. It has a basic disc damper and it works well. If you have a low profile PN motor mount that will work and offer rear axle height adjustments. Atomic offered a nice LM mount that I like but they are hard to get.

If you go ahead and get the LM motor mount be sure to also get a LM diff shaft because the are a bit longer than the stock shaft.
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Old 2018.11.01, 10:30 PM   #3
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There is an LM conversion kit that comes with the motor pod, damper, shims and gear differential. Costs a few dollars more than the LM pod alone. If not using a ball diff, this is the way to go.

If you have a PN 98MM mount, and uses a standard differential, all you need is an LM damper plate and proper offset wheels (+2 to +3mm rear) to convert it. Some bodies need to be clearanced for the more inset differential if you go this route.
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Old 2018.11.01, 10:45 PM   #4
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Thanks. I ordered one of the conversion kits.
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Old 2018.11.02, 06:57 AM   #5
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The 962 body is incredibly fragile in the nose area. Basically a one hit wonder. If you purchase one, look for the KH designation as opposed to the LH. It performs head and shoulders over the LH. It shares the fragility of the nose but that can be negated by attaching a piece of .030 styrene plastic across the bottom of the nose from the wheel wells forward to the nose. Then fill the nose with a foaming epoxy like Gorilla glue. Use extreme caution to keep the epoxy out of the body clip attaching point. It is a royal SOB to clean out. Once done the body will be much sturdier. The epoxy is best applied in small amounts to control the spread. If you are an appearance purist Use some thick gap filling cyanoacrylate to seal around the headlight buckets prior to adding the epoxy to keep it from seeping into the shiny side of the body. Once everything has completely cured, mount the body and run the steering from lock to lock to see how much if any of the re enforcement needs to be trimmed away.
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Old 2018.11.02, 07:43 AM   #6
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I love these posts of yours
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Old 2018.11.02, 10:34 AM   #7
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An informed noob is a happy noob. I remember when the 962 was first released how disappointed some of the members were when they jumped on the LM bandwagon and destroyed what was then a $30 ASC body on first contact with anything semi solid.

For those of us that have information, a certain duty exists to at least try to keep the kids from making avoidable errors that could hinder their progression into the greatest RC scale that I have ever run across.
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Old 2018.11.02, 11:01 AM   #8
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Your input is VERY much appreciated. I had one of these in the past and can confirm how fragile they are. Wish I had known to do that before!

Will do this time!
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Old 2018.11.02, 12:00 PM   #9
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This is a subject near and dear to me, as I love to run really expensive or custom painted bodies, and I'm not a very good driver.

I took a 10 year pause from Mini Z (2007-2017), and in that period, the Porsche 962s came into existence, had a few decent bumper solutions available, went out of production and became rare and expensive, and all the bumpers are gone, nowhere to be found. My Google Fu is pretty good, but the Kyosho and QTEC are impossible to find. The one solution I found that actually works better than I expected is the R246 lexan bumper. (R246-1032 R246 Mini-Z Lexan Bumper SS 26mm). It looks a little weird, but is mostly transparent. While the Kyosho bumper is kind of a brute force protector by just being thick and sturdy, this R246 bumper acts more like a spring, absorbing impact and bouncing you back. Haven't noticed any issues with RCP rails, and it's not nearly as snaggy as it looks.

Here's an example of the reinforcement described above. I use Goop rather than foaming epoxy or super glue because it remains soft and flexible when it dries, and my theory is that it helps dissipate energy better than a more brittle glue. It's hard to see, but I basically coat the entire backs of the headlight buckets, and all the area under the piece of styrene.






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Old 2018.11.02, 01:08 PM   #10
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I am sure it is effective but the protrusion out front creates lift on a body that already is prone to push(in LH trim). I see you have the Mazda 787 front wheels mounted to give it a tad of steering which the body lacks. I use the foaming epoxy to keep the weight down. The permanent bubbles that form after cure do have a pretty good bit of resiliency on impact. I have gone a far as to remove the headlamp buckets but retain the outer covers to allow for a better foam build up.
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Old 2018.11.02, 01:18 PM   #11
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Yes, don't disagree with any of that. The Goop is a little heavier, but I personally don't mind a little extra weight out in front of the front wheels.

I think there are several approaches to front-end reinforcement, and they all have their uses. The approach I mentioned, to me, is appropriate if you're trying to preserve a pretty body and not overly concerned with ultimate handling. I use an approach more similar to what you described on bodies that are strictly for battle.
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