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Old 2018.10.24, 06:09 PM   #1
SuperFly
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Porsche 911 GT1

I bought this white body a while back, and ordered a 90mm motor mount, but wasn't quite sure what to do next. I had been looking on the internet for paint ideas, and there was one I couldn't stop looking at:





The 1997 911 GT1 Evolution.

https://www.yahoo.com/news/1997-pors...151129713.html

I'm going to drive this body, so I stopped short of the commitment to custom decals. I also thought I'd try some Tamiya gloss clear coat instead of my usual Future, and I literally ran out before I had a good wet coat on the whole thing, so there's a little spray texture on the windows. Oh well. I never use the word "sexy" to describe a car, but I might here.







I had an old MR02 AM chassis I was running under a 962, and the chassis had broken at the knuckle attachment. I had a leftover PN tower bar, swapped in an ASF DasMikro board, and it drives great!

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Old 2018.10.24, 06:37 PM   #2
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That looks good, I like your choice of style with the Evolution.
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Old 2018.10.24, 08:25 PM   #3
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That is such a nice looking paint job. Simple, but elegant.
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Old 2018.10.24, 08:54 PM   #4
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Looks great. I may have to copy that. How does that motor mount handle? Any traction roll? I was having a hard time getting mine dialed in, but with RM & disc damper. Please update after you get some track time.
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Old 2018.10.24, 09:57 PM   #5
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I'm glad i didn't go through with my solo paint job on my white GT1 body last weekend like i was going to ... the black accents all over specially the rear end look stout & this seems easy enough to pull off for even a spray paint challenged person like myself.
bobbyz i have a lot of experience with this mount as well as reconfigurable and even though this mount is pretty good the reconfigurable at 90mm is ridiculously fast & consistent specially with the more compact PN brushless motors.
I also happen to do a bunch of Gt1 & Gt3 testing for lap time and consistency using plastic RM mount using oil shock only and then with kyosho carbon dampener (MZW430) with the regular friction top shock on it and I found all those set ups to be very drivable ...the fast laps were only couple of tenths off of 98mm Box stock.
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Old 2018.10.24, 11:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyz View Post
Looks great. I may have to copy that. How does that motor mount handle? Any traction roll? I was having a hard time getting mine dialed in, but with RM & disc damper. Please update after you get some track time.
My driving is my driving whichever car I'm in, but this car is competitive with anything else I have.

The club track has better grip than my personal track, and my personal RCP track has less miles on it, so It's a little greasier. However, on my personal track with a layout of 2 wide Ls and a wide radius corner kit and an expansion kit, I was able to get a 5.9 in this car, and it's an MR02 assembled from scraps under there. Best I could do in a brushless mod car was a 5.7. I had read that this car's offsets (+1/+2) were a good combination with the 90mm wheelbase, and I'd have to agree. This body also seems to have a fair amount of the weight kind of low, so it seemed very glued to the track.
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Old 2018.10.24, 11:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugler View Post
I'm glad i didn't go through with my solo paint job on my white GT1 body last weekend like i was going to ... the black accents all over specially the rear end look stout & this seems easy enough to pull off for even a spray paint challenged person like myself.
While this car seems fairly complex, it was actually pretty easy to mask. I laid down the black first:



I use Tamiya masking tape, and use round wooden toothpicks to push it into the panel lines and almost cut through it. Then when you do it with an Xacto, you barely need to push. Also remember to take inventory of all the small additional pieces you might want to paint black (spoiler, mirrors, piece that goes on bottom of deck lid spoiler, etc.). Oh, if you do paint the back end black, don't forget to leave white, or paint white or silver under the area where the taillight strip goes.

Maybe worth mentioning: I've had this liquid mask stuff for a while, and it's never really worked very well for me. But here, I used it on the tiny vents in the rocker panel below the rear edge of the door. It's a blue-ish goop like thick paint, and I just dabbed it in with a toothpick. After everything is painted, it peels off. It probably worked well here because of the defined edges and recessed area.
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Old 2018.10.25, 01:45 AM   #8
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Nice job... thanks for sharing...
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Old 2018.10.25, 07:31 AM   #9
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What are the base paints? Want to know if the Tamiya clear reacts with Kyrlon/Rust-Oleum paints? I test Krylon clear coat over Krylon/Rust-Oleum and it crinkled again, so I gave up on clear coats. It's so depressing to finish a good paint job only to have it ruined by a clear coat. I've tested Kyrlon and Rust-Oleum clears a couple times and they always crinkle the paint underneath.
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Old 2018.10.25, 12:11 PM   #10
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What are the base paints? Want to know if the Tamiya clear reacts with Kyrlon/Rust-Oleum paints? I test Krylon clear coat over Krylon/Rust-Oleum and it crinkled again, so I gave up on clear coats. It's so depressing to finish a good paint job only to have it ruined by a clear coat. I've tested Kyrlon and Rust-Oleum clears a couple times and they always crinkle the paint underneath.
The base paints are acrylic, not Krylon. I know I said I usually use Krylon rattle cans, but lately I've been experimenting with different airbrush paints. The silver is Tamiya Chrome Silver X11. I find enamels to be better looking and tougher, but the drying time kills me sometimes. If I use Model Master, Boyd's or Testor's enamel, I find that a WEEK is the minimum dry time to be able to handle and re-mask without making yourself mad that you left a thumbprint by being too eager. Acrylic is good to go in less than 24 hours. Rattle cans dry faster, but sometimes the perfect color isn't available, or I want more control that I can't get with a rattle can. That Tamiya X11 has a lot of metallic component, and not a lot of clear binder, so the raw silver paint job was not super smooth, almost looked like I took a wet car and dipped it in silver powder. I was worried it would just flake off.

I went to this art supply store here in town that was blowing out airbrush parts and paints for like 70% off, so I grabbed some extra needles, nozzles and paints. They had this brand of airbrush paint I hadn't seen before, Wicked Colors, so I grabbed a couple, including black. It was listed as a multi-surface airbrush paint, and mentioned automotive as one application. I figured if it was good enough for a real car, it should work here. It had this stuff that was some kind of hardener you were supposed to add around 1:20 for automotive use. I think the reason they were all on sale was it was really old stock, and the hardener solution had kind of curdled or partially dried out, so it never mixed very well, and had chunks that clogged the airbrush. I managed to get the black details painted, but I threw that paint away when I was done, didn't like it.

Anyway, I've had the exact same experience as you, and it also makes me gun-shy about clear coats as well. I have a tendency to have a really nice paint job going, and then somehow manage to screw it up near the end with the clear coat, decals or hand-painting details with a brush. The thing I've found to be a safe route is water-based clear coats, or putting acrylic over enamel or lacquer. I think I read that on a modeling forum a while ago, when people were talking about layering various paints and washes for weathering effects. So, do a base coat with acrylic paint and use Krylon clear coat, or do a base coat with Krylon, and clear coat with acrylic (Future or Tamiya). Counter-intuitively, it's the enamel-on-enamel where you get the crinkling. I think it's running into the difference between "drying" and "curing". Like, maybe if you wait a week or so before putting a Krylon clear coat over other Krylon, it won't crinkle. I think the underlying base coats aren't fully cured, and then when you put a wet coat of the same type of paint on top, it softens the surface and makes it expand, but part of it is dry, so uneven expansion = crinkles. Just my theory, maybe I read something to that effect somewhere. Also, I've never had any bad reactions with just straight acrylic/acrylic.

You need an airbrush to do it, since there aren't any water-based rattle cans I'm aware of. Airbrushing Future is probably the safest bet. The Tamiya Gloss Clear I used here has a much glossier finish, but it was also much harder to get the right amount without pooling or orange-peeling. As I mentioned, I ran out before I was done, so I might have been able to get it right if I had just a little more
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Old 2018.10.25, 01:41 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mugler View Post
bobbyz i have a lot of experience with this mount as well as reconfigurable and even though this mount is pretty good the reconfigurable at 90mm is ridiculously fast & consistent specially with the more compact PN brushless motors.
I'm curious which reconfigurable mount you are referring to here. I didn't see another 90mm PN option, all the reconfigurable mounts seemed to be in the 93-102mm range.
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Old 2018.10.26, 01:22 AM   #12
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I believe mugler is referring to the pt# mr2996cf4 along with the RM motor carrier. This should get the Reconfigurable Mount to 90mm. I believe there is a Porsche GT3 on the PN FcBk page with this motor mount setup down at abt Aug 2017.
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Old 2018.10.26, 07:29 AM   #13
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That reconfigurable mount is a real treasure hunt to figure out... you go to one part with reference to another, and another, and another... I would assume you could buy either the 94mm or 98-100mm pod kit (the latter is the only one in stock) and then buy the bottom plate and motor mount arm? I've never run this setup for 90mm and would be interested in trying.
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Old 2018.10.26, 01:03 PM   #14
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So, do you end up with a 90mm RM with this reconfigurable? And that's superior to the squished MM I'm using? I can see how it would be nice to do this if you already had the mount, but it seems like overkill if you're starting from scratch with the intent to build a 90mm car.
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Old 2018.10.26, 01:14 PM   #15
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Yes, you end up with 90mm RM

The attached image is fro PN faceballs post showing this off.
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