2006.05.08, 01:13 PM
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#1
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DCGTG FET Guy
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 3,444
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MR-02 RM Stock Racing Setup
I have an MR02 that I am using for stock racing in the HFAY racing series. Everything is pretty much stock with bearings, SS kingpins, atomic Ball DIff and I think hard front springs.
It is running pretty well (so I probably shoudn't change it ) but I am running a stock H plate right now because the graphite one broke.
Since I am racing it stock I want to keep it light. I can't find the Kyosho carbon plates in stock so I was thinking about the 3Racing motor mount.
I was also thinking of converting it to MM and running a McLaren body.
I am kind of grabbing at straws here but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for setting this car up. Any recommendations for a RM carbon H plate or motor mount?
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2006.05.08, 01:21 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Jordan, Utah
Posts: 6,877
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I like the PN RM mount. I was able to replace my H-plate with ones I got here at the shop.
I like the soft H-plate on the back. I ran the stock one until I broke it.
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2006.05.08, 01:39 PM
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#3
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DCGTG FET Guy
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 3,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briankstan
I like the PN RM mount. I was able to replace my H-plate with ones I got here at the shop.
I like the soft H-plate on the back. I ran the stock one until I broke it.
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Which PN mount do you use? The one with the motor clip or the modified one that requires drilled cans?
Also, could you post a link to the H plate you are talking about.
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2006.05.08, 01:42 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Reading Pa.
Posts: 4,124
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Have one of my easiest setups, the F50, on here:
http://www.minizracer.com/forums/sho...849#post205849
My current setup is the 575GTC, Bearings, Kyosho Oil damper, GPM diff, 8 degree tires, alloy wheel nuts... that's it, all else is stock.
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2006.05.08, 01:45 PM
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#5
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DCGTG FET Guy
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 3,444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imxlr8ed
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What's that stuff on your motor clip? It looks like bubble gum.
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2006.05.08, 02:44 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Reading Pa.
Posts: 4,124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoon
What's that stuff on your motor clip? It looks like bubble gum.
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Close... foam and gluestick leftovers. I used to run my patented (yeah right...) Chunk 'O' Foam suspension on that car, but realized that the oil damper was doing an ok job on it's own. I run a piece of track foam, a little cube of it, on my F50 glued in the same position. It acts as a friction damper and a main as it touches the body of the car.
I just put this setup on one of my members cars yesterday, it took alot of the chatter and spin-out tendency away from the car. The piece should be only as tall as the distance between the mount and the body, just touching when the car is sitting still.
Last edited by imxlr8ed; 2006.05.08 at 02:51 PM.
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2006.05.08, 03:56 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 153
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My track also has a stock grade competition. Here is a pic of my setup for the track. I use the PN racing ML motor mount with my RM body. I think the mount is lighter than the stock one.And if you want to secretly add some speed, then use some comm drops. I just pile it on before a race and my car always takes off the fastest
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2006.05.08, 04:12 PM
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#9
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DCGTG FET Guy
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 3,444
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Thanks for the input guys. That ML mount looks pretty good Kel. I guess it takes away some of the balance characteristics of running RM. I would also have to tap my stock motors to get it to work.
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2006.05.08, 10:43 PM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles (Pasadena), CA, USA
Posts: 2,809
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you could use the 3racing mount if you wanted to run MM, but you'd probably need a disk damper to stiffen up the 't-plate' (the whole bottom plate). the MM setup reacts quickly and is quite forgiving, probably because i'm running without any top damper. the 3racing mount doesn't require any thread tapping, which is cool. i have a hyper dash 2 armature in a stock can and it fits great in that mount.
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2006.05.09, 07:43 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 153
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I ended up taking the oil shock off for weight. Being a lightweight car is very important for a stock motor setup. I would turn all metal axles into titanium and try to drill holes in some of the plastic parts.
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2006.05.09, 11:46 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Clinton, UT
Posts: 55
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Use Loctite on the 3Racing mount
Are you guys talking about the 3Racing with the top and bottom graphite plates? If so, use Loctite to keep it together. I lost 3 screws out of the top plate, and 1 out of the bottom, all in just one night of racing.
__________________
Clanure
~! I'll come up with something fancy to put here eventually !~
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2006.05.09, 04:09 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 218
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My only suggestion is to keep RM, i dont see y plenty people run their cars in MM, could someone explain the performance differences?
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2006.05.09, 04:27 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Reading Pa.
Posts: 4,124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neweraz84
My only suggestion is to keep RM, i dont see y plenty people run their cars in MM, could someone explain the performance differences?
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Whole other subject... there's some threads out there already.
Opinions vary, some are die-hards for one or the other.
Try MM vs. RM in the search, something like that.
Hobbycar looks like he has the right idea of what a stock race car should look like, his Modena causes a twinge of fear in me for some reason, ... looks like it was built for one purpose... winning !
http://www.minizracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21606
Is it just me, or does that car look dangerous ? Like it has serious racer written all over it !
Last edited by imxlr8ed; 2006.05.09 at 04:33 PM.
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2006.05.10, 11:48 AM
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#15
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 1,198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imxlr8ed
Hobbycar looks like he has the right idea of what a stock race car should look like, his Modena causes a twinge of fear in me for some reason, ... looks like it was built for one purpose... winning !
http://www.minizracer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21606
Is it just me, or does that car look dangerous ? Like it has serious racer written all over it !
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Thanks for the compliment imxlr8ed :-)
My stock Mini-Z car has been put together for racing in the HFAY OLPS by reading suggestions from experience racer/setup guys like yourself on these forums. Then trying stuff and learning a ton from the guys from the Ann Arbor GTGs (David/Mini-Z, Chuck/onrailz, Will, Drac, Vaughn, Brad, etc).
It's only taken me 6 months but I've finally got the car to a baseline where I'm satisfied with it for HFAY OLPS. It's fast (at least fast enough for me), but more importantly handles well and consistently. It is very responsive off throttle or at low speeds and pushes just a tad under power. But has an "edge" where the rear end will break loose very slightly and "chatter" or slide slightly around corners at high speed and under power (similar to a RM - but less pronounced).
On suggestion from Chuck and the other guys from AA I've been in pursuit of the proper balance of "easy to drive" and "very responsive/edgy handling" and I think I've finally found it for myself. Of course there will be minor tweeks week to week if necessary (harder/softer springs or H-Plates) but overall I think I'm done. The only major thing I might try is 2 degree front knuckles for even more steering response.
So in light of all of this, my suggestion to Spoon would be to stay with what you have (even the stock plastic H-Plate) unless you want something specific. Only reason I'd move away from the stock plastic H-Plate to a harder Carbon Fiber H-Plate is if you want more turn-in (aka steering response) and/or less rear end stick. Or you are having "H-Plate tweek" issues (this is sometimes the cause of spin-outs when turning in one direction but not in the other) - note I've seen this with both Stock H-Plates and Carbon Fiber H-Plates.
If you do decide to goto a non-stock motor mount I suggest the Atomic Motor Mounts over the 3Racing ones. They cost more but I've seen the 3Racing Motor mounts carbon fiber parts break during races (not good) and they require special carbon fiber plates (does not use standard H-Plates) to replace them or change from soft to medium to hard. I love my 94mm MM Atomic Motor mount Version 1- it does require you to drill your stock motor (newer versions don't require a drilled motor) and use a MM H-Plate (the RM H-Plate is too long). Personally I like MM (either 98mm or 94mm) over RM but again it's what you feel most comfortable and consistent driving with.
Sorry for being long winded but I hope it's helpful.
-hobbycar
p.s. Now that I have my baseline car setup we'll see if I can improve my driving skills to crack into the top echelon in HFAY OLPS (a tough task based on how Chuck/onrailz drives circles around all of us at AA every week). Cause as we all know racing results are 20% car and 80% driving skills. Unless you give 110% - then it's 20% car 85% driving skill and 5% what you ate for breakfast.
Last edited by hobbycar; 2006.05.10 at 11:53 AM.
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