dammit. okay, i got the GPM blue alloy motor mount. it is a very nice peice of work. 2.5 problems though.
1) you need to shim the GPM ball diff to get it to work with the GPM motor mount. 3 freaking shims!! the 2 shims that it comes with are big and probably contact the center and outer edges of the bearings(duh). i ended up using a 3rd shim from a kyosho diff set that only touches the inner part of the bearing and the 2 big shims on the diff side. the part that hits the idler(middle) gear is the hex nut that you tighten to adjust the GPM ball diff's tightness. so it is the peice that smashes the o-ring to the spur side alloy peice. anyways, the shims fix it, BUT now the shaft is not centered( cannot confirm until it get it running)
2) you need machined screws like typical alloy stuff. the regular ones don't thread correctly. okay, i got a few extra screws laying around.
2.5) the idler gear teeth sometimes hits the opening where the pinion sits if the idler gear tilts just the slightest bit. this is a .5 problem because i won't know til i get it running when i get ball ends from gpm. waiting for the GPM idler gear to see if this is still a problem. yes, i tried shimming the little bearing to mover the idler gear away from where it touches, but that does that do? it pushes the idler gear closer to the problem #1 hex nut, thus making more shims required and possibly making too tight of a fit between the motor pod and gear casing.
there should be warnings that you must buy all GPM stuff to make things work, but even then, their own parts don't always work with eachother. oh well. i needed the motor pod because i broke my stock CA'ed to the max pod.
also, if you get the GPM motor mount, get the gear cover, it will make it look nicer as the stock plastic one has the 2 aligning posts that are not used with the alloy mount.
4am.. time for bed
b (buyer of useless/ill designed squat and GPM parts)
if you did some reading...you'de know that gpm has always marketed their parts to need or work with other gpm parts . but if your new to the mni z scene and don't have a racer than you would have had to do some background searching before you bought parts...something very few do.
i'm saddened that they do not include the necessary accessories with the alloy motor pod. please post the product numbers for the extra parts that must be purchased, and thanks for the info!
i would guess that most do not use the ball diff with the overland, so that is one issue most will not have to deal with.
also, being the first to release a broad range of upgrade parts for the overland (gpm), might have it's price, which is a few bugs to work out of the product line. topcad, while not highly desired, is continuing to build it's product line to match gpm's and powerline has told me they are making overland parts. given it's popularity and time, i'm sure that there will be alot more parts available in the forseable future...atleast one can hope so!
yeah arch. i got 4.2 racers currently. 3 gpm motor mounts, hence the extra machined screws. the part that caught me was the problem #1. as far as them needing other parts, the only other part that seems to be needed is machined screws.
okay. i will make my own with real rc parts so i can adjust the tweak. i should have a few Ti lundsfords TB's lying around.
the GPM ball diff is damn good though. good on carpet too. the overland drives soo much smoother and over 50% quieter. i don't think it matters what you drive on as far as getting a diff. anything you can do on the stock diff including locking it up can be done with the ball diff. and the ball diff will lessen the one wheel burnouts on loose ground, getting power to the ground. too bad it is only a 6 ball dealio. the only plus side of the stock diff is that it should be easier to change from lock to normal, but then again, why would you be changing around every couple of minutes? you gotta take off the lock when you make any turns or else the back will not get as good traction as a ball diff. after driving a 2way AE86 and a welded rear 240 det, i must say that a locked rear diff is definitely not the best for traction. only for climbing up a straight line will locking a diff be better.
I know what you mean about the gpm parts not quite fitting.... but not with the alloy motor mount I got. I have installed the mount and the stock ball joints fit perfectly. I also have the alloy gear cover with the gpm diff. it all seems to be running okay. I am new to these miniz's so maybe in a week my OL will fall apart. its louder now with the gpm diff and has a much more soild thunk when it hits the wall!
the part that didnt fit is the steering tie rod I got one with a 1 degree toe-in and the alloy knukles, when I install them together the front wheel would turn but there was sticking part in the steering. I think I need to make the holes at the ends of the tie rod a bit bigger. Has anyone had this problem before?
marmot. we gotta meetup sometime. i am also in honolulu. we got a race sat on kapahulu.
anyways, the noise you are getting is probably from the idler gear hitting the pinion cutout or hitting the innerside of the ball diff. when i shimmed it, it felt as smooth as a my racers. well, not as smooth as my minizracer dry bearings, but close. the ball diff should in no way make it louder as noisewise, all it does is get rid of the loose planetary diff that rattles(gotta grease it up).
post has been edited. stock ball ends work. still have the diff hitting the idler gear problemo. i just spent 30minutes on it again. sits a little off, but runs very quiet.
marmot. check your idler gear teeth for wear on the sides. b
I'll try adding a shim to see if the noise is less. what kind of grease do you recommend? the kyosho stuff? I have been using bicycle grease and I think its a bit too viscous.
Yea it would be great together sometime and race! I live in kaimuki where u at? I just ordered my first z racer! so I'll messing around with that one soon too!
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