2019.01.14, 04:22 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 48
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Need help deciding what to race in what class.
I currently have an MR03 sport with the KT19 transmitter set up as an LM car with my Mazda 787B body, a PN racing 70t motor, Kyosho R246-1222 Roll Damper / Oil Shock, Atomic AR240 motor pod, and the Kyosho MZW308 Ball diff.
I also have an MR03 Sport 2 with the KT-531P Transmitter that is all stock, except for the Kyosho hopped up motor.
I'd like to get some advice as to what I should do. I'm wanting a total of at least 3 cars, possibly 4.
What In thinking is to make my Audi fit into the 70 turn super stock class at the local track. I can just take the motor out my LM and put it in and be good to go from there with starting to hop up the car within the rules.
My LM car I was thinking of swapping it over to another chassis, and using the one it's on now for a stock class car. I would also probably make the stock car also fit into the classic GT class with a Jota or 935 body (I found an unused 935 with minor damage from moving locally) I might not however, just so I can take advantage of the spring changes, at that point would probably just buy a Jota readyset.
As for my LM car, I was thinking of getting an MR02 and using the PN racing DSM2 circuit board. Is that possible? If it works, I can use a lower turn motor, as well as upgrade the AM Mr02 to a 2.4ghz system. I would also.see about changing the pod out to a PN racing one with one of their diffs with a higher pitch spur gear that has more teeth.
Is this a solid plan for setting up my cars to be able to race? I dont get much time to go but when I do I want to be racing instead of sitting for most of them. The stock car may be driven by my wife and I wont always race the LM, my main focus would be the classic gt and the 70t super stock.
another thought is if I go for 4 cars, I would put the Audi on the KT19 car for stock class, get the Jota or 935 for the Classic, still do the LM on the Mr02 with the PN board, but for the 70t class I would go with the DB9 and do the 96mm conversion stuff. it's just a thought. This is mostly because the wife likes the Audi body and if it was a 70t class car, that means I'm running stock and classic.
really though before I decide on the rest of the class, I'm trying to decide how to make the LM car faster. I'm hoping the board works with the mr02 and that it would make for a good car, without being super expensive, or being ridiculously more than just buying a brushless chassis.
Last edited by Ka0sgh0st; 2019.01.14 at 05:36 AM.
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2019.01.14, 08:57 AM
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#2
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epic procrastinator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,216
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Some thoughts on your post:
Of the bodies listed Id keep the Audi as the 70T or stock competitor. Its the lightest of the bunch and that does influence chassis setup.
The MR02/DSM2 as an LM chassis is an alright idea (without the consideration of servo motor swap and steering mode reversal) but fo me the 03 front end is superior. Without having to upgrade to a PN A-arm you could get the width and stability of an 02 and the 03 front end by getting a PN 2.5 chassis with a DSM2 pre installed (dont know your budget is a limiting factor)
PN gears fit onto other ball diffs so buying a whole new diff isnt needed....get a diff center bearing and gear set and some ceramic diff balls and you can convert your Kyosho LM diff.
One final note: my suggestion on chassis/class decisions usually takes a day or 2 fiddling and wrenching at a track day. Experimentation is part and parcel of the fun of mini-z so don't be ridgid in your process....make a reasoned and lap timed basis for your class choices.
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2019.01.14, 10:18 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowboysir
Some thoughts on your post:
Of the bodies listed Id keep the Audi as the 70T or stock competitor. Its the lightest of the bunch and that does influence chassis setup.
The MR02/DSM2 as an LM chassis is an alright idea (without the consideration of servo motor swap and steering mode reversal) but fo me the 03 front end is superior. Without having to upgrade to a PN A-arm you could get the width and stability of an 02 and the 03 front end by getting a PN 2.5 chassis with a DSM2 pre installed (dont know your budget is a limiting factor)
PN gears fit onto other ball diffs so buying a whole new diff isnt needed....get a diff center bearing and gear set and some ceramic diff balls and you can convert your Kyosho LM diff.
One final note: my suggestion on chassis/class decisions usually takes a day or 2 fiddling and wrenching at a track day. Experimentation is part and parcel of the fun of mini-z so don't be ridgid in your process....make a reasoned and lap timed basis for your class choices.
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I'm leaning towards the Audi for the 70t, and filling stock and the classic GT classes with a Jota.
I've also thought about the DasMikro brushless conversion on the Lm car as I have it now, as it's a sport 1 model. I think I would just need the board, motor, and transmitter, which I would need anyways for the LM car. the other track near me just has stock and mod mini z class, and from what I'm told most people run the 98mm McLaren body with a 9500kv motor. If I did that, I could run it at both tracks, as well as stock at both tracks
Im thinking that a fet mod would be cheapest option for the LM car. if I go with the 8858CZ fet, I should be able to run any brushed motor. Also would do the 70t super stock car as well
Last edited by Ka0sgh0st; 2019.01.14 at 12:30 PM.
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2019.01.14, 03:45 PM
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#4
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epic procrastinator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,216
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So if I'm reading this correctly you dont have a DSM2 Tx at the moment anyways?
If thats the case Id lean away from DSM2 as a concept as its signal rate isnt as good as the VE-MHS boards and at this point nothing compares to the Evo boards. One of those options with an upgraded transmitter and a high KV motor would make a great start to a mod based chassis.
I don't have any experience with the DasMicro units so hopefully someone else can chime in....
The 12C is quite likely the lightest plastic body in the Kyosho range.
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2019.01.14, 05:26 PM
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#5
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bitPimp
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 668
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Just made a car from scratch with a PN chassis and a Das Mikro brushless board. So far so good, no difference from my Kyosho VE Pro as far as I can tell. I'm running a PN 9500kv motor under a 98mm Mosler.
FWIW, the Das Mikro brushed board is a decent $40 upgrade for a Sport if you already have an ASF controller, if you don't want to get into brushless. The FETS are good and will handle a 43T or so motor just fine. If you haven't driven a brushless car yet, I'd see if you can test one first, it's a different driving style.
I have two formerly-AM-crystal MR02s with Das Mikro ASF boards in them, they are both very competitive, especially the 90mm Porsche 911 GT1.
Happy to answer any questions or take pictures.
Last edited by SuperFly; 2019.01.14 at 05:44 PM.
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2019.01.14, 06:15 PM
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#6
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EMUracing
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NYC
Posts: 7,417
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The fets that come on the Das Mikro board are just shy of the 8858, HUGE step up from ASF. The 8858 are more or less equivalent to the fet used in the RWD and VE pro boards. There is a lot of power capability, and I would think that you can run any motor in the DasMikro boards.
I have run just about any motor on stock ASF boards as well. I only burned one car with a hot Anima II at a regional race with 100f ambient temps... and one other running lipo where the resistance in the power switch burned the wires. Running mod motors on stock ASF will degrade the fets a little (shouldnt really use a 70t in them after), but they can handle quite a bit of power. A single layer of 8858, DasMikro, or RWD fets are roughly equivalent to running 3x stack of 3010 ASF fets.
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EMUracing
Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
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2019.01.14, 06:31 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 207
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I have 2 dasMikro asf brushed boards and they both work well. They both have quite a bit of servo noise, but it doesnt seem to impact how they drive. You also have to have spare servo motors and switches to solder into place from old boards. Ive had luck with the big auction_bay site for finding the real deal kyosho brushed and MHS brushless boards for 60 to 70 with discount coupons (no soldering or extra parts required). Of course then you are mostly stuck buying a Ex-6 radio to run everything. I am, however, a big fan of the radio and not bringing 4 different radios anymore.
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