I installed these (1 degree) and noticed there is not enough thread to tighten a normal 2mm alum lock nut snug enough? I can use the honky black plastic ones that come on the chassis but not the alum nuts as it will run out of thread and leave the front wheels loose
I really don't know why people have a problem with the plastic wheel nuts but anyways.....
Try turning the alloy nut around so the nylon locking aspect is closest to the bearing. Tighten carefully to the perfect spin point and you should be good.
__________________
I wonder what rocket scientists say to their coworkers when one of them doesn't get it?
Are you absolutely sure the Nylock isn't reaching the threads? Could the nut just be worn out? If you are using the R246 knuckles and don't have a mountain of shims on the axial than Kyosho wheel nuts will work. Old PN ones will not, however, as they use a rubber O-ring that doesn't grip the threads too well. My F1 car currently uses this setup and I can grab a picture when I get home, along with a measurement of axial length.
As another alternative, I seem to remember Axial Racing made low profile 2mm lock nuts that were 30-40% thinner, but I can't remember for sure and a quick google search didn't help. Maybe have a thumb through their parts catalogue.
I think some people object to the Mini-Z F1 ones because they are huge and ugly. The aluminum ones look much better but in terms of performance, there is none.
For the cost, lock nuts are just a small measure against the likelihood of loosing a wheel as the plastic nut back off. It's happen to me more times that I care to remember so for a couple bucks, lock nuts are a worthwhile purchase. Just need to replace them when they start backing off as they wear out. I've even finished races on 3 wheels a few times because the time you loose in stopping is more than crabbing around the track for the last little bit of a race.
I have r426 knuckles on my mr-03's and most have very long shafts. I do have at least one set with normal length so there is some variation.
With with the extra long shafts with not enough thread, I need to either reverse the nut or use a number of shims between the nut and wheel bearing to take up the slack?
You will definitely need to use 1+ shims to take away the slack. The nut should not tighten completely, hence why a lock nut is used. Add a shim and then tighten the lock nut until the wheel cannot move back and forth on the axle but still spins freely. If the nut won't stay on the shaft at this point and loosens easily than it is totally worn and needs to be replaced.
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