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Old 2007.02.23, 10:38 AM   #1
Sinister_Y
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Maha 1000 Mah AAA cells: got 'em?

Hi All,

Was fortunate enough to get 2 MH-C9000 chargers and want some new cells to use seeing as all my other cells are now very old. I have GP 850/950, Intellect 750/ PN 800/ PN 780 and Sanyo 900 cells right now with the Gp950 being the best cells.

I was looking for feedback on the Maha 1000 Mah cells. Anybody bought them and use them? The only other option was that I was thinking of picking up all Sanyo 1000 Mah cells.
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Old 2007.02.23, 10:50 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinister_Y
Hi All,

Was fortunate enough to get 2 MH-C9000 chargers and want some new cells to use seeing as all my other cells are now very old. I have GP 850/950, Intellect 750/ PN 800/ PN 780 and Sanyo 900 cells right now with the Gp950 being the best cells.

I was looking for feedback on the Maha 1000 Mah cells. Anybody bought them and use them? The only other option was that I was thinking of picking up all Sanyo 1000 Mah cells.
I think you are going to love the charger. It seems to be of very high quality and is easy to use.

I have not used the Maha batteries but have a question. Why are you using the 900 - 1000 mAh batteries? Aren't they heavier than the 750 mAh batteries?
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Old 2007.02.23, 11:13 AM   #3
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I'm not sure the mAh rating affects the weight. I have some 750mAh batteries that are heavier than some other 900mAh batteries that I have. Having said that, the mAh rating indicates the longevity of the batteries, not the power/punch they'll put out. It's my understanding that voltage is what really counts. Batteries that charge to a higher voltage will be faster than batteries that charge to lower voltages.
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Old 2007.02.23, 11:15 AM   #4
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by the way, if you're running endurance races and want to run the batteries as long as possible before swapping them out, then 1000mAh batteries would be the way to go.
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Old 2007.02.23, 11:39 AM   #5
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good point. I don't know, i never weighed them. I was just going by total capacity and average voltage (I matched all of the cells individually using my LRP Pulsar 2 charger). The GP950 gave the most voltage, even over the intellect. So, punch, but longer punch. They may weight more...plus I'm running ad band and fetted cars usually. The stock cars, i usually use the intellects and pn cells for, i.e. less drain on the batteries due to stock.
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Old 2007.02.23, 11:50 AM   #6
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Maha

I have been using the old chargers for quite some time, and recently became a dealer for them. I am currently charging two packs for the first time on the 9000s. I wanted to test these cells and see how they perform.

I will let you know what I think of them when they get a couple cycles through them..
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Old 2007.02.23, 12:15 PM   #7
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My intellects weigh an average of 12.6 Grams
Kodak 700mAh batteries average 12.2 Grams

I just assumed that the higher the mAh rating the higher the weight. I guess if they are not heavier we might as well use them. Can you guys weigh your various brands and mAh ratings and post the weights?

GfxDan - It does appear that Voltage may = punch but there are other factors as well relating to overall battery health. Battery internal resistance for example. Internal resistance restricts current flow. We may find that it is a factor. Example: Battery A has a Volt rating of 1.5 Volts, Battery B has a Volt rating of 1.4 Volts. Battery A has higher internal resistance due to damage caused by high rate charging causing a restriction to current flow. Battery B has more punch. This may prove to be the case.
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Old 2007.02.23, 12:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuter
My intellects weigh an average of 12.6 Grams
Kodak 700mAh batteries average 12.2 Grams

I just assumed that the higher the mAh rating the higher the weight. I guess if they are not heavier we might as well use them. Can you guys weigh your various brands and mAh ratings and post the weights?

GfxDan - It does appear that Voltage may = punch but there are other factors as well relating to overall battery health. Battery internal resistance for example. Internal resistance restricts current flow. We may find that it is a factor. Example: Battery A has a Volt rating of 1.5 Volts, Battery B has a Volt rating of 1.4 Volts. Battery A has higher internal resistance due to damage caused by high rate charging causing a restriction to current flow. Battery B has more punch. This may prove to be the case.
Okay, so how do you measure internal resistance?
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Old 2007.02.23, 01:03 PM   #9
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Okay, so how do you measure internal resistance?
I don't know.... Wish I did. You can read about it at Battery University.com. Part Two BU-31 & BU-32. Also, BU-48 about zapping is interesting. See what you think.
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Old 2007.02.23, 04:17 PM   #10
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The ICE charger does that from what I understand. There maybe more chargers that do it, but I know it has that functionality.
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Old 2007.02.23, 05:13 PM   #11
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yes the ICE charger does measure internal resistance but only when discharging and then you have to discharge your pack for atleast 2 mins for the charger to measure the resistance and give a reading
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Old 2007.02.24, 02:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbevins
yes the ICE charger does measure internal resistance but only when discharging and then you have to discharge your pack for atleast 2 mins for the charger to measure the resistance and give a reading
To select your cells you should measure each cell individually ...

At the CRC we've tested many cells and the cells with the lowest resistance on the market so far:

Newtecs NT 900AAAP
Vapex 1100 mAh
Ansmann 1000 mAh

Cheers,

Jo
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Old 2007.02.24, 09:48 AM   #13
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I dont know about the resistance, but a guy I race with runs the new Duracel 1000mAh batteries, and its like he has a FET stack in his car. He has alot of punch with them and they have been that way since day one. He uses the Energizer charger to charge them. I am going to be getting some of these soon
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Old 2007.02.24, 05:33 PM   #14
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Was playing around with different batteries last summer, and started some on going practical tests to see if any of the different cells could yield measurable differences on the track.

For the test car I used/use a Tagu 1/24 conversion with an Atomic Z2 since the car is heavy but very stable so that my 50 lap times are very consistent with it. For the tests first I used a Triton to run three charge-discharge cycles on each individual cell then charged the 4 cell sets using a LRP Pulsar Comp 2 with a single charge – discharge- charge cycle before each of a minimum of three consistent 50 lap trials per battery. Might sound like a lot of work but it wasn’t since I just incorporated it into my daily routine averaging 8 to 12 test runs per week using the lap timer and computer to keep track of the times and swapping out favorite batteries with friends to try as many different batteries as possible.

First thing I noticed was that after a while you really can “feel” the difference in some cells, the second was that many clearly different cells are sold under the same brand name, even with the same rated capacities. For instance we ended up testing three types of 1000 mAh Sanyo’s with different lables; one was a clear winner, one ok, and the third was not worth the money.

So far I’ve run through well over a dozen different brands/types, and of course the results are not exactly accurate or conclusive since for most I only had one set to test some new some not. For example the only set of Atomic 800 mAh cells that I borrowed had at an estimate well over 100 charges by a none to friendly charger compared to 6 sets of Intellects ranging from brand new and/or well kept to horribly abused so a new set of the Atomics might have done much better. I started loosely grouping the batteries into three classes good, ok, and not worth the money but after awhile gave that up too and simply started looking for ones that clearly stood out as being a cut above. None of what I refer to as the department store and camera shop cells have done very well, these include the Duracell’s and above mentioned third Sanyo purchased from a camera shop. The one notable exception that I haven’t tried yet are the IC3’s since to be fair to them I would need to try them with their charger, I do know someone who uses and swears by them the problem being that I've never seen him or his car actually finish “cough-cough” as few as 50 laps.

A friend has a set of Powerex 1000mAh cells by MAHA Energy model # MHRAAA2 they where fairly new and came out as ok but nothing special.

So far only two 1000mAh batteries have clearly stood out as being a cut above the rest. One is a Sanyo (model # unknown) that has “Superlattice Alloy” on a white label with an orange bar at the (-) end and blue letters, selling for around $11to $14 for a set of four. The other and my current battery of choice do to nearly identical results with a friendlier price tag, is the Fujicell #HR-4H/AAA 1000mAh NiMH which oddly enough looks a lot like the Sanyo with it’s white label, orange bar at the (-) end, and blue lettering. I have now tried several sets of both these batteries in several different cars with a wide variety of motors, and although I can’t say definitively that they are hands down the best I can say that either is well worth the money.

One odd note is that where you get your batteries from does seem to make a difference I suppose this has a lot to do with shelf-life (age), storage, and handling conditions.
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Last edited by LBRC; 2007.02.24 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 2007.02.24, 06:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja
I dont know about the resistance, but a guy I race with runs the new Duracel 1000mAh batteries, and its like he has a FET stack in his car. He has alot of punch with them and they have been that way since day one. He uses the Energizer charger to charge them. I am going to be getting some of these soon
Gosh, Lamar, thanks for the endorsment.
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