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Old 2011.07.09, 06:40 PM   #1
arch2b
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Kyosho Stock Class Racing

Starting August (see 2011 schedule) we will begin Kyosho Stock racing. Racing will occur on alternating weekends from HFAY. Please see the 2014 Schedule.

Why Kyosho Stock? All of us started somewhere. For many of us, this was LONG ago when Mini-Z racing was in the early stages of being formally organized via the then Kyosho Mini-Z Cup and similar sponsored events. HFAY for example has it's roots in nearly stock class racing with the Kyosho box stock motor. Over time HFAY, like other series, has evolved and focuses mainly on modified stock and open/mod racing leaving little to no support for the beginner classes. We want to address this by adding a Kyosho Stock racing class to our club racing to help bring in new racers with more affordable entry costs so that they may participate and compete while learning if the hobby is indeed for them. They can choose to up the ante so to speak by joining our HFAY racing and other local events or some may find it's not for them and decide to move on to something else with minimal loss. With Kyosho USA's support of stock racing, we will be joining them in establishing this class and use the rules established by Kyosho USA for their stock class racing. We will be following this rule set as developed and revised by Kyosho USA. Who knows, if htey ever decide to restart the Kyosho Mini-Z Cup series, we will already have experience with this class

Here are the Kyosho Stock Rules, (Ver. 2.2) Updated on 03-06-2014

Open to any Kyosho Mini-Z Racer and AWD Chassis, Iwaver/Fire-Lap Racer and AWD Chassis. Chassis can be any configuration including LM and wheelbases from 86mm to 106mm.

• Chassis - No modification (shaving or drilling unless absolutely required for proper part operation)

• Motor - Kyosho Racer and AWD Stock motor only.

• PCB - No modification allowed except for updating to current PCB board. No Gyro permitted, No brushless, permitted, no increase in quantity of FET's permitted. This accommodates periodic changes or upgrades in PCB design with regard to frequency, etc.

• Bodies - Must be Kyosho Kit or Autoscale body, or full painted and assembled white (unpainted) body. Modification (shaving or drilling for weight savings and aerodynamic gain, adding wings etc) not allowed. (Exceptions; hole may be drilled in rear deck lid of Ferrari F355 to allow for damper clearance as example, front splitter or low air foils that protrude to sharp points may be rounded at corners/edges.) custom painted bodies must be fully painted and ALL accessories excluding optional kit parts (rally light on Toyota Celica for example). completed body must be within 2 grams of original Autoscale weight (average weight of Autoscale rear spoiler). Bodies found to have greater deviation will not be permitted.

• Wheels - Any Manufacturer plastic wheels only. Wheels/tires must be of appropriate width and offset for respective Autoscale and fit inside the body.

• Tires - Any Manufacturer brand rubber tire (No grooving, cutting or silicone based tires allowed)

• Batteries - Four AAA batteries. Alkaline, Ni-MH or Ni-Cd batteries may be used. No other type of battery may be used. For example: Lithium Polymer may not be used, Ni-Zn may not be used.

• Ball Bearings - Any manufacturer non ceramic ball bearings are permitted.

• Front Suspension - Manufacturer stock suspension and parts permitted ONLY.

• Rear Suspension - Manufacturer stock suspension permitted ONLY and assembly appropriate for chassis type (example, LM stock configuration includes rear damper. Other kits include Kyosho Rear Shock Set #MZ206) Please note, as of December 2016, Kyosho has updated the Racer line to include the MM2 rear end with retail kits in stock form (not Limited, SP, Cup Class, etc.). MM2 Set #MZ217.

• H/T Plate - Any Manufacturer H/T plate permitted, must be appropriate to stock wheelbase for chassis configuration and Autoscale selection.

• Wheel Nuts - Any Manufacturer wheel nuts permitted.

Modifications to the rules
• Oils, lubes, greases, tire tape will be allowed in our series.
• Allowable ESC modifications are limited to the replacement in kind (same as stock) of fets and other board components.
• Autoscale modifications are limited to the minimum clearancing needed for operation of permitted equipment. Shaving bumpers, skirts, windows, etc. will not be allowed. Please choose your autoscale accordingly as there will be no exceptions made thus no excuses.
• R246 autoscales that are sold in chassis sets are acceptable. The R390GT1 is an example of this R246 autoscale sold as a chassis set with wheels. Those that are not sold in this manner are not acceptable. To clarify this further, other Autoscales not sold as chassis sets or readyset are not acceptable.
• Wiring must remain stock except you may replace motor wires with like wire. IE; replace stock motor leads with Turnigy 24awg wires. You may replace the stock antenna wire with like wire.
• AWD and RWD chassis my use the aluminum motor spacers to assist in dissipating heat.
• Kyosho SP Pinions are permitted as you get all 4 pinions sold in convenient parts kit. MZW119.


If here are any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and we will update this as needed.

MR-01 stock parts kits can be found here.
MR-015 stock parts kits can be found here.
MR-02 stock parts kits can be found here.
MR-03 stock parts kits can be found here.

Last edited by arch2b; 2016.12.23 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 2011.07.17, 12:30 AM   #2
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A refresher of the discussion on permitted options for those that may not have been around for them.

T plates often break as a result of crashes and replacements are only available within a parts kit that includes many un-necessary parts. I don't recall anyone ever breaking a spring. Loosing a spring yes, but it's rare that a spring breaks. I do see the merit in the discussion though and will discuss it further this Saturday.
MM t plate parts kit MZ204 $7: 1 plastic T plate and MM motor mount
RM t plate parts kit MZ210 $6: 1 plastic T plate and RM motor mount
Kyosho FRP T plat sets MZW410H, MZW410M, MZW410S, MZW409S, MZW409M, MZW409H $19: 3 t plates of a specific stiffness in either RM/HM or MM/LM. there are a few others in sets of 3 but include S, M and H at the same price range. the average replacement from PN or Atomic runs about $4-6 however are much more durable than plastic and your not saddled with extra parts that may or may not be used. i am still running the stock plastic h plate and i know a couple others are as well.

Ball bearings are not solely for performance but mainly to accommodate extended use of stock motors and extending run times. Our desire to maintain stock motor class requires concessions to make it viable in the long run. To this day I do not understand why Kyosho includes plastic bushings in kits. Even their mini-z cup allowed for ball bearings. I've given away more sets of bearings than many have ever bought and still keep a couple sets on hand just in case someone joins and doesn't have any and not comfortable paying for the Kyosho bearings. I never have and never will spend $$$ on high end bearings. I run the same $8 Boca bearings or bearings included in past purchased 'cup' kits. If TRC ever restocked the dry race bearings, i'd jump back to those in a heart beat but alas, TRC has not restocked in maybe 10 years.

Lock nuts are unsprung weight in the end. some swear by them, others prefer the plastic. In the end, they are not a performance part but used in effort to reduce chance of loosing a wheel during a race, despite the high entertainment value it typically provides. I've had better luck with alloy thus always use them. There are very cheap alloy lock nuts available and always have some on hand if anyone needs them.
This is very similar to the request for alloy motor heat sinks. They are added weight and serve to maintain the stock motor and agree these should be permitted. Please note, this is limited to motor spacers/heat sinks, not motor pods because they may include heat sinks as part of the kit.

LM is a matter of choice. It comes as standard equipment on a 'stock' LM kit. if driver X feels this is what they need to compete, the choice is there to switch to LM autoscale of choice. There are near endless choices to be made in terms of which chassis and autoscale to choose in the end, each based on driver X criteria. I see this as one of the many strengths of stock class vs. a fault. I do see the merit in the discussion though and will discuss it further this saturday. If i recall correctly, even the kyosho mini-z cup permitted the stock spring damper shock on chassis that did not include it.

If anyone is ever in need of a part for stock class and is not comfortable paying for Kyosho parts, please inquire with me. I am more than happy to assist and typically have extra's of just about everything on hand.

I'm currently working on a new member parts kit as we speak that will include bearings, ample supply of lock nuts, proper box wrench, Philips screw driver for about $15. I already dispensed to HW a large quantity of battery cases to be distributed to new members.

Last edited by arch2b; 2015.01.06 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 2011.07.21, 09:17 PM   #3
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anyone else got a stock car and interested? courtney said he had a couple people waiting for this class so attendance should pick back up.
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Old 2011.08.13, 09:36 PM   #4
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i think it was a good first race today with the bumpy condition of the track, LM models seem to handle best. i've already ordered the R390 autoscale and 30/20 tires. i'll move the HSV to my HFAY chassis as i do like this body.

bill did fantastic with his stock Mazda LM! nearly as good as he did with his HFAY car.

does courtney have a stock lm differential in stock? forgot my chassis kit came with the lm ball diff, not a geared diff.

Last edited by arch2b; 2011.08.13 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 2012.07.19, 09:20 PM   #5
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trying to get this going again, maybe at Mimi's since HW doesn't seem interested in pushing this.
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Old 2012.07.23, 04:24 AM   #6
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i've always loved this class (because it's cheap and fun)... wishing you well and hope this class can bring in more racers...
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Old 2012.12.16, 10:49 AM   #7
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well, it's clear hobby works isn't going to push for stock class racing and Remnant is taking up the challenge. they are currently working on their schedule right now.

fyi, Remnant will also continue to join us in HFAY at hobby works. Remnant will also will continue 90mm class racing. the mini cooper and beetle are the body of choice so far.

to clarify, HFAY will remain the 2nd saturday of every month. everything else will be on remaining weekends. Remnant also practice/races certain weekdays as well. Mike will reflect all this on the schedule he is setting up.
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Old 2013.05.26, 10:34 AM   #8
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guys, please check the rules. I am using Remnant Kyosho Stock rules unless there is strong demand for change.

Of importance is the selection of approved motor. For Remnant it is the PN Mini-Z PNWC Official 70 Turn Stock Motor. We can continue with Kyosho stock motor only or continue per Remnant rules with the 70T. Please note that if 70T is approved for Hobby Works I will ensure it is stocked at Hobby works so availability is not an issue.
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Old 2013.11.17, 11:24 PM   #9
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rules have been updated if i recall correctly to reflect our current state of rules, box stock with allowances for tires, wheels (correct offset for autoscale), t plates, ball bearings and lock nuts. nothing else... i'll have the 3d printed t plates in december. the turn around is not quick enough to get them for november stock racing.
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Old 2014.06.15, 01:30 PM   #10
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with rules break in period concluded, i've updated the rules to permit the following:
replacement of motor lead wires due to multiple instances with leads snapping off during racing. more pliable wire will eliminate this from happening. wire must be like wire; IE, like gauge. Turnigy 24awg wire is perfect match yet much more flexible. I will have some on hand at all races in case anyone wants to swap motor leads.
replacement of antenna wire. myself, i have had the jacket slip off 2 antenna wires and had to replace with the only available product, Reflex Racing antenna replacement wire. if anyone has a suggestion for alternative antenna wire please let me know as i do no know mow much longer you will be able to find the Reflex Racing product.
we will not change to 70t motor. the competitive equalizer the stock provides is to much fun. we are always open to sourcing a motor that has the same speed but runs cooler, IE; stock motor with ball bearings.

otherwise, i think the first season was a very good success! certainly provided for some close and competitive racing.

please feel free to make suggestions for improvement. rest assured any and all suggestions will be considered.
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Old 2014.07.20, 07:17 PM   #11
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Given the price of autoscales can we make an exception for fully painted and assembled white bodies?
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Old 2014.07.20, 07:55 PM   #12
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i'm inclined to agree with the stipulation that fully painted white bodies must include all parts excluding optional parts included in some kits. must be fully painted, not just color stripes on an unpainted body. i would prefer to see them clear coated so that the final weight is as close to stock as possible. I may need to build a database that has the stock weight for most common bodies and require ballast be added for those underweight. in stock class, weight can make a very big difference.
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Old 2014.07.20, 09:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b View Post
i'm inclined to agree with the stipulation that fully painted white bodies must include all parts excluding optional parts included in some kits. must be fully painted, not just color stripes on an unpainted body. i would prefer to see them clear coated so that the final weight is as close to stock as possible. I may need to build a database that has the stock weight for most common bodies and require ballast be added for those underweight. in stock class, weight can make a very big difference.
I concur with all this. I too was concerned with comparable weight between autoscales and painted.

I think it would be quite time consuming to find all so we should start with the most common raced bodies and maybe come up with a "within +or -". I weighed my hydro dipped 458 vs my autoscale 458 and the hydro dipped is 1 gram heavier at 39 vs 38 respectively.
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Old 2014.07.20, 10:46 PM   #14
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i think we have most of the ones needed and can get the rest from members. i think we can come up with a solid variable number that will make it work.

really don't want to make this arduous but really need to maintain the spirit of the stock class.
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Old 2014.07.21, 07:43 PM   #15
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Are we allowing heatsinks for the AWD? I have the metal motor plates and heatsink on mine to keep it from shutting down.
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