Hey guys! I have an MR03 with the ATOMIC 94mm MM mount, PN Racing 94-98mm friction mount with a Hard spring on top Mid spring on bottom, Stock center shock, ATOMIC Mid Fiberglass T Plate, Wide front end, 0* knuckles, and ATOMIC Soft Green springs. I currently run Kyosho 20* radial tires in back and PIT 15* slicks up front. Im pretty new to Mini Z cars and seem to have alot of on power push. My off power turning is good but would like more on power for the sweepers on our track. I was thinking of going to a harder T plate. What are your thoughts?
Sounds like you need more front grip. When I push I add a little camber and change tires. I also true my front tires flat all the across. I run hard springs up front and a carbon 3 T plate.
Sounds like you need more front grip. When I push I add a little camber and change tires. I also true my front tires flat all the across. I run hard springs up front and a carbon 3 T plate.
Kris
When you say you change tires Im assuming you went to a softer tire? I should note it pushes more after about 4 laps into a race. Im thinking my front tires are too soft. Also is the carbon 3 T plate on the softer or harder side? My set runs from 4 to 6 in .5mm increments.
What body are you using? Camber/Carter setting? What differential, and how tight is it set, does it slip When applying throttle?
There are many variables that come into play when trying to dial in a car. I have no experience with the front tires that you are using, so cannot comment much on them.
Do you have the tires taped or glued to the wheels?
One thing that stands out is that you have relatively soft front springs. They will help the car into the corner, but will reduce steering from the mid corner on once they load fully. I would advise using a stiffer frp t-plate, and move up on stiffness with the front springs a little as well. You may be lifting the inside front tire as throttle transfers weight rearward, this reducing steering on exit.
By increasing stiffness on all four corners, the cat should have more similar behavior on corner entry as corner exit.
Your disc damper spring setup, with a harder top spring relative to bottom spring will also induce on throttle push. So that may be the first line of attack to reverse the springs and see if it exhibits the same or opposite characteristic. With a harder bottom spring, you will keep more mass on the front wheels as throttle is applied, as the car will squat less.
Please update when you try some adjustments. Do one at a time, and run some laps (3-5 minutes) to see the results.
__________________
EMUracing Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
What body are you using? Camber/Carter setting? What differential, and how tight is it set, does it slip When applying throttle?
There are many variables that come into play when trying to dial in a car. I have no experience with the front tires that you are using, so cannot comment much on them.
Do you have the tires taped or glued to the wheels?
One thing that stands out is that you have relatively soft front springs. They will help the car into the corner, but will reduce steering from the mid corner on once they load fully. I would advise using a stiffer frp t-plate, and move up on stiffness with the front springs a little as well. You may be lifting the inside front tire as throttle transfers weight rearward, this reducing steering on exit.
By increasing stiffness on all four corners, the cat should have more similar behavior on corner entry as corner exit.
Your disc damper spring setup, with a harder top spring relative to bottom spring will also induce on throttle push. So that may be the first line of attack to reverse the springs and see if it exhibits the same or opposite characteristic. With a harder bottom spring, you will keep more mass on the front wheels as throttle is applied, as the car will squat less.
Please update when you try some adjustments. Do one at a time, and run some laps (3-5 minutes) to see the results.
I currently run the Nissan JGTC R34 GTR body, ATOMIC Carbon ball diff and 0* caster and camber. The tires are not glued or taped. Everyone in my club seems to think it is a waste of time and advised against it. I will try the disk dampener spring flip first. I can go up a spring and t plate as well. I will try those after the springs. Thank you for your input EMU!
I currently run the Nissan JGTC R34 GTR body, ATOMIC Carbon ball diff and 0* caster and camber. The tires are not glued or taped. Everyone in my club seems to think it is a waste of time and advised against it. I will try the disk dampener spring flip first. I can go up a spring and t plate as well. I will try those after the springs. Thank you for your input EMU!
Taping/glueing tires is essential. Even if people don't feel that it is necessary. The sidewalls will occasionally peel up, giving inconsistent handling... And if you unload the diff at any point, the tire can balloon and shift.
I would definitely recommend that you start taping... or glueing the tires. On lower speed circuits, it is less vital. But if they aren't taped, it makes it much more difficult to work out irregularities in handling that could be tire related.
If you true the tires, it becomes even more important to glue/tape the tire. As the tire gets thinner, it needs more support to stay on the wheel.
__________________
EMUracing Micro RC Syndicate /DG Designs /GSR /Reflex Racing /Fast By Faqish /MurderTown Racing
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