Hi Guys, my buddy wants to upgrade his diff and I was just wondering who makes a good aftermarket one these days. I run the Kyosho one myself as I had tried a cheaper one some time ago and it was not great.
So just wondering if any less expensive after market diffs come recommended or I should tell him to spring on the genuine Kyosho.
i'm running the PN LW ball diff on one of my chassis...last a long time before needing to be rebuilt...i ran that diff a good 3 months before the big race we had, ran it in the mod class, and i just rebuilt it afterwards just because i rebuilt the other one, but it was still smooth like butter...IMO pretty good pick up
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drunk driving is not cool, unless it's with Mini-Z's.
The idea is to insure that the plates are as flat as possible to promote even contact across the disc surface.
The firm "no" to sanding the PN discs may come from a concern that the surface will peel or flake as some did a couple of years ago. I never had any fail but in truth the best out there are the Kyosho units. If you can afford them and don't mind the additional rotating weight. It is all about what is the most readily available to you at or nearest to your location.
If you take the disc and mount it to the inside pressure plate and then use the little pinion puller tool that comes with the car as a handle you can flatten(sand) the disc surface in relatively short order without wearing your fingers out in the process. I highly recommend a good 600 to 800 grit paper for the process. Flatten both surfaces of each disc so your first rebuild is free. For a truly good tutorial or "how to''go to the Reflex Racing web site. You won't be disappointed. Pay close attention to the lube being used.
I run the PN light weight diff. with their 64 pitch gears. The aluminum axle that comes with it is great quality but I have had them bend in the past. The axles that I run now are the Titanium ones made by Atomic with all of the PN parts. I have never had one of those bend and they are much lighter then the steel axles. I have never ran the aluminum ended ones with the graphite in the center before.
Someone told me that "mirror-effect" on the pressure plates don't give you a advantage. 600-800 grit paper is more than enough.
They shoulden't be to fine, they should have some "grip" in them.
Or is this what you are using?
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Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity
Someone told me that "mirror-effect" on the pressure plates don't give you a advantage. 600-800 grit paper is more than enough.
They shoulden't be to fine, they should have some "grip" in them.
Or is this what you are using?
this is 100% true...when i moved up from 48/50T motors...doing that 1000/2000 grit sandpaper bit me in the backside, i've been doing 600 grit sandpaper and have had the best success
__________________
Quote:
drunk driving is not cool, unless it's with Mini-Z's.
Someone told me that "mirror-effect" on the pressure plates don't give you a advantage. 600-800 grit paper is more than enough.
They shoulden't be to fine, they should have some "grip" in them.
Or is this what you are using?
i did nothing with the pressure plate, i just glue them up to the hub and let them roll. as long as it's consistent and doesn't act up i won't do anything to them.
IMO r246 and kyosho plate are the best pressure plate in the market straight off the shelves.
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