I just found a new easy to increase camber and toe in with stock knuckles. Just take off the front wheels and bend the little metal thing that the wheel spins around. ( i don't know what it's called ) bend it up for negative camber and in ( towards the front of the car) for toe in. I guess this could also work for MR-01's also. Best of all, IT"S FREE!
Sorry if this idea has been posted already. I'm new to this forum.
I just found a new easy to increase camber and toe in with stock knuckles. Just take off the front wheels and bend the little metal thing that the wheel spins around. ( i don't know what it's called ) bend it up for negative camber and in ( towards the front of the car) for toe in. I guess this could also work for MR-01's also. Best of all, IT"S FREE!
Sorry if this idea has been posted already. I'm new to this forum.
Bend the stock metal... *cough* .... Don't you remember this is an expensive little car
It would be hard to evenly bend both sides I would think.... there is no way to gague how far you have bent it, easily.
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Alloy arms huh... I wonder how the extra weight in the front affects performance... I tend to like the weight more in the rear, but sometimes gets too heavy...
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You can guage how much camber you have by how close the top of the wheel is to the top of the kingpin. You won't know the exact degree but theyll be even. And if anything breaks, just go buy aftermarket knuckles
I just found a new easy to increase camber and toe in with stock knuckles. Just take off the front wheels and bend the little metal thing that the wheel spins around. ( i don't know what it's called ) bend it up for negative camber and in ( towards the front of the car) for toe in.
I would worry that after bending, the spindle (hub) might be loosened from the knuckle assembly and thus cause the spindle to rotate around.
Some of the early made knuckles tend to have this problem. When tightening the wheel nut, you'll notice that you can never tighthen them because the spindle (hub) is spinning along.
Some of the early made knuckles tend to have this problem. When tightening the wheel nut, you'll notice that you can never tighthen them because the spindle (hub) is spinning along.
The knuckles that came in the Kyosho Front Suspension Parts For MR-02 set spin like that, what a friggin pain! You got to grab them with needlenose just to tighten/loosen the wheel nut.
On mine I removed the knuckles and the front wheel. then I push the spindle pin into the plastic a bit, put a drop of CA on the head of the pin. Then before the CA sets up I push the pin back into place. Once the CA dries, no more spinning in the knuckle. I recommend taking the part off so you don't get CA all over the chassis, I tried that on an old MR01 that I had and glued the knuckle to the steering arm. Also stuck the arm to the servo case as well as the case to the chassis.
Far as changing camber, just remove the pin and carefully drill it out at a slight angle. then reassemble with CA. Also file the inside rest down for more clearance before you glue it back together. You may need to shim out the outside depending on how much came off the inside. Alot simpler and no bending the pin, putting the bearings in a bind. If you want to use epoxy, you can use that too. Just keep it on the inside.
Toe is better changed with a tie bar set anyway, if anything you can always go back and change that.
On mine I removed the knuckles and the front wheel. then I push the spindle pin into the plastic a bit, put a drop of CA on the head of the pin. Then before the CA sets up I push the pin back into place. Once the CA dries, no more spinning in the knuckle.
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