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Old 2013.02.07, 10:31 PM   #16
yasuji
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trexflyer02 View Post
Really? I tried RXR06's and had nearly no rear traction. Just way too hard of a compound...
the first pack of battery felt a little looser than the rrr but as the x pattern went away it got more grip on the other possibility is the rsr06... however you must true it flat or at least sand off the coating to break them in
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Old 2013.02.08, 12:17 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by yasuji View Post
the first pack of battery felt a little looser than the rrr but as the x pattern went away it got more grip on the other possibility is the rsr06... however you must true it flat or at least sand off the coating to break them in
Hmm ... maybe I'll have to try them again. Parada 6's are my favorites as of late, but just like the radial 6's, they are out of stock
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Old 2013.02.08, 06:24 AM   #18
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The two bay area tracks only comply with PN rear tires as of now. Kyosho 20 slick rears used to work, but since so many people ran PN tires on these tracks, they are the dominant tire brand. You can use traction compound to get more traction or use a PN lsd spur gear to retain same diff characteristics but with a looser setting, which equates to more rear grip.

Rrr06 tires have good life despite how fast the tread wears down on some tracks. Some tracks are more abbrasive than others, which speeds up the wear rate. I have noticed this at some tracks I've been to.
i forgot about that too...that does make a difference
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Old 2013.02.11, 04:17 PM   #19
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We tried trued 6 slicks, trued and grooved 6 slicks, X-Patterns and Kyosho 20s.None of them worked as well as the bald worn out 6's I would have thrown out 3 weeks ago.

It might just be time to take a vacation from Mini-Z until tires come back. Racing is going to be ugly without the right tires.
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Old 2013.02.11, 04:26 PM   #20
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I'm not sure what's going on with the newest batch of rrr06 we got. Some were super soft. So soft that a standard pn70t without holding the diff will spin a brand new tire right off the rim. Then another package they were just as expected and ran great.

And on the flipside, I have to take back my comment on the Kyosho 20 degree. I had a faster more aggressive car that wouldn't hold the rear end in turns and moved to the rrr06 and almost had too much traction. Car had way more push so I had to move to an even softer front tire. It seems the Kyosho 20 degree in the colder weather (or more specifically, colder track) seems to suffer more.
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Old 2013.02.11, 08:03 PM   #21
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In order for the car to balance correctly, I probably have to run a harder front if I run a harder rear.

Back to the drawing board.
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Old 2013.02.11, 08:25 PM   #22
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ive been told that the RRR06 should come back in to stock before the end of the month....
in the mean time i will be working on my driving ability!...with the x-pattern rears my car seems to drive really similar to how my car feels @ ILR!
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Old 2013.02.12, 02:05 PM   #23
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ive been told that the RRR06 should come back in to stock before the end of the month....
in the mean time i will be working on my driving ability!...with the x-pattern rears my car seems to drive really similar to how my car feels @ ILR!
Nice, thanks for the update
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Old 2013.02.12, 02:44 PM   #24
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I finally got the X-Patterns to hook up. They definitely need to be given time to break in. In my case it look wearing off most of the X-Pattern for it to grip better. With my car/setup it look some adjustments to get it feeling right, but I'm really picky with my setup so it might be a simpler process for other racers.
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Old 2013.02.12, 10:02 PM   #25
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I finally got the X-Patterns to hook up. They definitely need to be given time to break in. In my case it look wearing off most of the X-Pattern for it to grip better. With my car/setup it look some adjustments to get it feeling right, but I'm really picky with my setup so it might be a simpler process for other racers.

just true it off....thats the easiest way!
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Old 2013.02.12, 10:41 PM   #26
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just true it off....thats the easiest way!
Noted, thank you Grant! I got the X's going, but I couldn't get the slicks to hook up. Tried new, used, trued, grooved, then again with another set just to make sure. I know someone who likes the slicks at ILR, but I couldn't personally get them to grip.
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Old 2013.05.31, 09:20 AM   #27
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Why must tires be trued? Why can't they be factory trued?

say it started 2.5 mm and we true it so final thickness becomes 2.0mm (say).

If it's factory trued, we want the initial thickness be at 2.5mm.

Well i guess for maximum profitability.
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Old 2013.05.31, 09:49 AM   #28
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Why must tires be trued? Why can't they be factory trued?

say it started 2.5 mm and we true it so final thickness becomes 2.0mm (say).

If it's factory trued, we want the initial thickness be at 2.5mm.

Well i guess for maximum profitability.
In order for them to be trued, they would have to mounted to the rim.
So now you have to get the right offsets, right style, and right tire compound and brand.
Plus I would say most prefer the tires to be thinner. Say, if the MFG started at 3.0mm, we'd still true to 2.0mm in your example.
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Old 2013.05.31, 12:29 PM   #29
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Tires don't necessarily need trueing if you've got the time and the laps to scrub them in. Performance wise properly glued and trued tires are a quick way to get instant grip and proper, consistent direction from the front end.
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