2009.02.19, 10:30 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 62
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Opinion: PN or Atomic Rear AWD Gear Box
Hey guys, I'm looking for opinions on either the Atomic or PN rear gear box for the AWD. I recently cracked the bottom two screw holes on the rear gear box "arms," and I'm feeling like I should replace it. Thoughts or opinions on the matter. Thanks guys.
Last edited by rc_bam226; 2009.02.20 at 04:20 PM.
Reason: I can's spell...
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2009.02.20, 12:13 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,929
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Are replacemrents whole pieces or just tops? I'd say whichever looks like it weighs less since they're both aluminum/durable.
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New site.
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2009.02.20, 12:24 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skv012a
Are replacemrents whole pieces or just tops? I'd say whichever looks like it weighs less since they're both aluminum/durable.
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The whole rear. I mean I already have the tops, its the bottoms that have cracked. I understand the Atomic one is all aluminum, but I noticed that the PN has a graphite bottom plate. I was wondering if it dug into the sleeves of the knuckles.
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2009.02.20, 01:59 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 336
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Hello!
What about getting a SAS pro instead of a normal rear pod? It's a great option to have on an AWD.
Concerning the rears, I would prefer the PN one that can be changed to 98mm without changing the whole thing. I had the PN on my AWD before the SAS. In fact I made an order to the atomic cause it was cheaper but the shop had no more atomic so they send me the PN one instead.
I used it for a little much than a year on my AWD with absolutely no problems before changing to SAS. The only trouble I had is that I had to shim my dif with this rear pod. (the TAR dif from atomic comes with such shims)
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2009.02.20, 08:06 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierro
Hello!
What about getting a SAS pro instead of a normal rear pod? It's a great option to have on an AWD.
Concerning the rears, I would prefer the PN one that can be changed to 98mm without changing the whole thing. I had the PN on my AWD before the SAS. In fact I made an order to the atomic cause it was cheaper but the shop had no more atomic so they send me the PN one instead.
I used it for a little much than a year on my AWD with absolutely no problems before changing to SAS. The only trouble I had is that I had to shim my dif with this rear pod. (the TAR dif from atomic comes with such shims)
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Thanks, I'll take that into consideration as well.
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2009.02.20, 10:51 AM
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#6
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CCMMMK
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 243
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how tough is the SAS plastic/parts?
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2009.02.20, 10:57 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 46
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I have the PN with the carbon fiber bottom and a PN aluminum top. Have heard of issues with the carbon fiber (graphite?) part breaking but figured it has to be lighter than an aluminum one. So far its been tough and is very stiff so flexing doesn't seem to be an issue but its not so ridged that it wont flex and help absorb some impacts. What i did do though was to seal all the edges with super glue as a precaution because of the 'breaking issue' and believe that sealing any type part like that is necessary to help it live longer. The reason i went with the after market is like you mine broke and more than once, seemed like every weekend it came back broken after racing, but now with the added after market parts, i haven't had any more breaking issues.
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CCMMMK
Cape Cod Mini Mass Kickers
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2009.02.20, 11:19 AM
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#8
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MBMZR
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 3,274
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I know this is asking opinions about ATM and PN parts, but Id like to inject another option. Ive used the PN and ATM rear ends (not the newer SAS tough), and personally, I always end up liking the stock parts (or other Kyosho plastic) better, as I never have fitment or travel issues.
Recently, Ive tried the new 3r rear end and top plate. I checked it out based on a reccomendation from relfexracing, and I love it. Its all CF and composite plastic, with delrin insterts around the knuckles. Its light, smooth looking, and the one I got it very, very precise and smooth with Kyosho knuckles. Also, in price comparison, you can get the whole rear pod (top and bottom pieces) and top plate for roughly the cost of any one of those parts from ATM or PN.
Im running the set up on a 94 mm mod AWD with the new ATM v2.5 VDS, and its fast, consistant, and fun!
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Landon
LET's Go Racing!
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2009.02.20, 11:56 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,683
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Thanks for the plug Landon. I also believe the 3 Racing CF upper and lower pieces are the best. I have been running them on my car this whole year. All our club guys have switched to them and they all love the results. THere is no better suspension right now. Not the SAS, the PN or Atomic parts, but the $$$25.00 3 Racing FULL SET. It should save you about $50.00 v. the other brands.
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2009.02.20, 11:56 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x_zminiracer
I have the PN with the carbon fiber bottom and a PN aluminum top. Have heard of issues with the carbon fiber (graphite?) part breaking but figured it has to be lighter than an aluminum one. So far its been tough and is very stiff so flexing doesn't seem to be an issue but its not so ridged that it wont flex and help absorb some impacts. What i did do though was to seal all the edges with super glue as a precaution because of the 'breaking issue' and believe that sealing any type part like that is necessary to help it live longer. The reason i went with the after market is like you mine broke and more than once, seemed like every weekend it came back broken after racing, but now with the added after market parts, i haven't had any more breaking issues.
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I'll agree with on the point the plastic around the screw holes broke after a hit or even applying a just a little too much force. I've done it a few times not even trying to torque the screws down.
I've broken those lower mount hole locations more than once having to replace the rear end. I thought the SP chassis plastic would fix the problem, but that too just cracked for me with a just a little bit of pressure.
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2009.02.20, 03:04 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,683
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Well, the 3Racing is CF as well, except with delrin inserts, allowing for much smoother suspension movement and a more rigid chassis. It makes the suspension work instead of the chassis flexing. I kid you not when I say that my AWD drives like a 1/10th scale touring car...
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2009.02.20, 03:35 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush
Well, the 3Racing is CF as well, except with delrin inserts, allowing for much smoother suspension movement and a more rigid chassis. It makes the suspension work instead of the chassis flexing. I kid you not when I say that my AWD drives like a 1/10th scale touring car...
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Sounds good. I've looked at the Reflex website CT, I don't see it listed. Is it out of stock at the moment?
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2009.02.20, 04:29 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,683
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Part no. AW40/WO Enter it on the search bar and you will find it...
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2009.02.20, 06:06 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: South San Francisco CA
Posts: 62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush
Part no. AW40/WO Enter it on the search bar and you will find it...
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Thanks CT.
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