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Old 2005.03.12, 05:51 PM   #1
Ryan Gardner
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The importance of alloy wheels for upgraded OL's!!!

It has probably been posted before - but I haven't seen anyone list it as an important point recently, so I thought I would mention something I learned from sad experience today.

If you are going to FET your OL and run a beefy motor in it, be sure to use alloy wheels - at least on the drive wheels.

I upgraded the main gear to titanium so it wouldn't strip when I was crawling. Then I upgraded my motor to a 35T mini-z workshop motor...

I'm running some of Davekins custom large tires on my H1 - and they work okay without any lift (would be nicer with about 4mm of lift, but they are okay as is because the H1 has such nice clearance overall the wheels).

The problem is this: Using racer rims with the wide tires, the car tries to find a way to exert torque. It can't use the force to strip the gears because they are titanium, and it could use the force to move the wheels and move the car - but in certain situations it's easier for it to just break the inner plastic piece off the tire than it is to move the tire - so it does that.

So: if you upgrade your motor, and your gears - don't forget that one more place you need to upgrade is wheels. If the wheels aren't upgraded, they will easily break.(After the wheels are upgraded, I'm guessing the differential will start to get cranked... but people have told me to have extra diff's on hand)
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Old 2005.03.12, 08:08 PM   #2
megalomanmemble
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Gardner
It has probably been posted before - but I haven't seen anyone list it as an important point recently, so I thought I would mention something I learned from sad experience today.

If you are going to FET your OL and run a beefy motor in it, be sure to use alloy wheels - at least on the drive wheels.

I upgraded the main gear to titanium so it wouldn't strip when I was crawling. Then I upgraded my motor to a 35T mini-z workshop motor...

I'm running some of Davekins custom large tires on my H1 - and they work okay without any lift (would be nicer with about 4mm of lift, but they are okay as is because the H1 has such nice clearance overall the wheels).

The problem is this: Using racer rims with the wide tires, the car tries to find a way to exert torque. It can't use the force to strip the gears because they are titanium, and it could use the force to move the wheels and move the car - but in certain situations it's easier for it to just break the inner plastic piece off the tire than it is to move the tire - so it does that.

So: if you upgrade your motor, and your gears - don't forget that one more place you need to upgrade is wheels. If the wheels aren't upgraded, they will easily break.(After the wheels are upgraded, I'm guessing the differential will start to get cranked... but people have told me to have extra diff's on hand)
did u use 9 T pinion gear ?
well, i think alloy wheel won't help coz the knuckles will breake after that.
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Old 2005.03.12, 10:34 PM   #3
swamper 56
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yea i broke my stoke wheels crawlin
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Old 2005.03.12, 11:22 PM   #4
Ryan Gardner
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Darn...

Quote:
Originally Posted by megalomanmemble
did u use 9 T pinion gear ?
well, i think alloy wheel won't help coz the knuckles will breake after that.
Dangit. I guess I have to get the ball diff with the metal knuckles and then take the balls out and lock it down tight (or superglue it... but I'm thinking taking the balls out would be better... there is another topic all about this)

Everything that transfers energy from the motor to the wheels must be upgraded for good crawling, it seems... Once I upgrade the wheels, the problem will be with the diff... once I upgrade that, I bet there will be something else that will find a way to break... Oh well... at least it's cheaper than real rock crawling
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Old 2005.03.14, 09:11 AM   #5
megalomanmemble
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Well, that's R/C
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Old 2005.03.14, 09:54 AM   #6
byebye
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I haven't busted a wheel yet. I can say that I am running racer rear wheels on my car
2x2 FET stack and plasmatomic motor with 12t pinion. I've been beating the crap out of it and the first thing to stop working properly is the stock shocks. Busted up the body also. I'm still pretty new to the Ol's and didn't realize that there is a piece to lock the diff. I use that now and can better control the OL. I did have to upgrad the main gear with a gpm platic alloy one. No problems there.
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Old 2005.03.14, 10:42 AM   #7
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I broke my stock wheels by just driveing around the traack not going off any jumps and than it broke, i had a X-speed with a 12 tooth pinion on. Than i bought the alloy ones and they works great.
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Old 2005.03.16, 07:42 PM   #8
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I broke the splines on the rear wheels of my Subaru offroader. I got alloy wheels for it and even with a lot of abuse I never stripped the plastic splines on the axles. I have 2 friends that run alloys on their OLs too and they haven't broken the plastic axle splines either.

It seems possible they could break but I haven't seen or heard of it happening to the plastic axle adapters just plastic wheels.

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