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Old 2007.04.13, 08:04 PM   #1
motospyder
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Cool Ask The Surgeon! - Need tech advice?

Hello, I am motospyder, the Mini - Z Surgeon. I have been racing / modifying Mini Z's for 5 years. If you have any questions, or if you are new to the old school MR-01 Mini Z and just have a general question, you are on the right thread!

Ask away!
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Old 2007.04.16, 05:27 PM   #2
TALLGEESE
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MR-O1 Steering problem

Motospyder, maybe you can help me out, I was racing my MR-01 yesterday and my car was doing great until I noticed I seemed to be getting intermittent glitching coming from my steering servo.. I know that this is a common problem w/older mini-z's but I pressed on because the problem wasn't serious enough to stop running. About 5 or so minutes after I noticed the glitching in my steering it stopped altogether, now I can only get my steering servo to work when I give the car Medium to Full throttle.. I don't think I've broken any servo gears so I figured I would ask you you're opinion, any help would be appreciated...
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Old 2007.04.16, 09:51 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TALLGEESE
Motospyder, maybe you can help me out, I was racing my MR-01 yesterday and my car was doing great until I noticed I seemed to be getting intermittent glitching coming from my steering servo.. I know that this is a common problem w/older mini-z's but I pressed on because the problem wasn't serious enough to stop running. About 5 or so minutes after I noticed the glitching in my steering it stopped altogether, now I can only get my steering servo to work when I give the car Medium to Full throttle.. I don't think I've broken any servo gears so I figured I would ask you you're opinion, any help would be appreciated...
My advice to you would be to start easy. First, make sure there are no interfering devices near where you are running, make sure that the batteries in the control are at full strength. If that doesnt remedy the situation, try checking the wire connections to and from your servo motor. Also make sure that your reception antenna is firmly soldered on to the board. Sometimes if my reception isnt right I try aiming the control antenna at the car while im running it. Has this happened to you consistently? If so, then you can pass it off as interference. If this is new, check the things I told you to check. Also, make sure to investigate the position of your steering trim. But as you stated, this is a typical problem with some of the older MR-01's. I bought mine in 2002!
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Old 2007.04.17, 04:34 PM   #4
TALLGEESE
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It's Fixed!!! Thanks for the help Motospyder, it turned out to be that the red positive power wire going to the steering servo was hangin on by just a thread... When I took the steering servo case apart the wire came off the motor, so I resoldered it on and even added a little extra solder to be safe. Another thing I noticed was that before I took the servo case apart I could see that the same red positive power wire was pinched in between the 2 halves of the servo case instead of following the other servo wire leads, almost smashing the power wire completely flat, which probably did'nt help either... Once again I'd like to say thanks!! my old-school MR-01 is running again!!
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Old 2007.04.24, 11:32 PM   #5
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Cmon now, Im sure there are more MR-01 Drivers looking for help! Please dont be shy!

Spyder
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Old 2007.04.25, 07:22 PM   #6
mk2kompressor
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how do i stop it from rolling over?
any setup tips?
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Old 2007.04.25, 09:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mk2kompressor
how do i stop it from rolling over?
any setup tips?
Your MR-01 is rolling over? You must be driving it on some very high traction terrain in that case. The mini z's extremely low center of gravity alone should be enough to keep it from rolling over... Perhaps softer suspension would be in your best interests. I myself like to use very soft suspension parts, such as very flexible and narrow carbon fiber H bars, and soft springs in the front. As for setup, I suggest using your z's maximum extension length as dictated by the positioning of the pegs your H bar connects to. Longer cars handle better at higher speeds.
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Old 2007.04.28, 12:56 AM   #8
Blackno3
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Darin we are racing (a small group) but only with the CP CUP CAR F1 kits for now. I may be able to come up with a car for you to race with us. Just send a email, you know were to email me at just click the link by my signature.
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Old 2007.04.28, 08:52 PM   #9
HammerZ
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There are a few threads on this one, I just wanted to add something here. What is your view on these?

One such thread

Can you use an MR02 diff on an MR01? and what is different between the two diffs?

How about the motor mounts? will they mount without any problems and will the diff work? how does the MR01f rear mount differ from the original mount, or the MR02 RM mount?

And finally, is there any performance gains by doing so? will it make the car feel more planted to the track?

These are just a few questions that was brought up. This way you have the info in one place.
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Old 2007.04.30, 01:10 AM   #10
TALLGEESE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HammerZ
Can you use an MR02 diff on an MR01? and what is different between the two diffs?


And finally, is there any performance gains by doing so? will it make the car feel more planted to the track?
What's up, the Mr-01 differential/rear axle is shorter than the Mr-02's.. You can use the Mr-02 rear motor pod on the Mr-01 for a wider stance/wheelbase for better handling...Not only that, but the Mr-02's motor pod lays flat, compared to the Mr-01's which has a slight kick-up to it... My Mr-01 would traction-roll all the time on a RCP Track before I switched to a Mr-02 rear motor pod and Ferrari 360 Modena wheels/body... For the Mr-01 wider is better, worked for me... I hope this helps...
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Old 2007.04.30, 04:38 AM   #11
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Just a handfull of questions that I have seen. Mostly about part swapping and improving the MR01 chassis. That other thread I linked to I posted a picture that shows the difference in the MR01 and MR015 stock diff. I just need to take shots of the motor mounts, it's just hard to show the differences with all of them black. Getting all the ones together to do pictures is tough as well. Just to help some of the new guys out, with what works and what don't. You can get some life out of the MR01 with a few MR02 parts.

My F40 MR01 with the MR01F rear mount with the MR02 diff feels more planted than the original stock mount setup for sure. A night and day difference in handling. With the old setup the inside rear lifted and caused the car to jump around quite a bit. I never knew where it would be comming out of the turn. The tiny 3mm drop of the motor cured the tire lift problem, with the car feeling more "nailed to the track" on turns.

*How about the motor mounts? will they mount without any problems and will the diff work? how does the MR01f rear mount differ from the original mount, or the MR02 RM mount?*

This is the one that I have read most. The MR01F and MR02RM is very close to the same thing. Just the MR02RM set has the H plate that don't fit the MR01. That one is about $1 less than the MR01F set the last I looked.
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Old 2007.05.01, 01:51 PM   #12
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The MR01F mount and the MR02 RM mount are exactly the same. There is an adapter that comes with the MR01F to allow it to use the original MR01 suspension that mounts to the middle hole. The T-plate holes are the same on the motormount side, but different on the chassis side, so the MR02/015 t-plates cannot be used, MR01 H-plates have to be used.

As stated in the diff thread, the width of the wheels on the MR01 diff is exactly the same as the MR02 diff. The difference is the offset of the spur gear. the shaft is longer on the MR02 where it goes through the motormount (spur gear is thinner). The MR02 diff has a little trouble running -1mm wheels, while the MR01 diff can easily fit them. I have had to shave down my -1mm wide rear wheels to fit an MR02 RM pod without hitting the spur/pinion (pinion is more of an issue).
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Old 2007.05.02, 07:53 PM   #13
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Im really not sure, Honestly my area of expertise lies simply in the MR01 and its many quirks. Ive never driven a 2.

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Old 2007.05.15, 03:12 PM   #14
JurgenS
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Hi Surgeon,

I'm total new with Mini Z and I bought myself a used but nearly new MR-01. It's the Loctite Honda NSX (A good handeling body??). The previous owner putted an Xspeed engine and other springs on it. Also ballbearing and alloy wheels and nuts. Is there something else what I should change or buy to use my Mini Z for racing on a track?

I also bought 3 sets of 4 AAA batteries GP 1000mA for the car and 2 sets of 4 AA batteries GP 2700mA for the controller. Is this a good choice?

Best regards,

JurgenS

Last edited by JurgenS; 2007.05.15 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 2007.05.15, 09:36 PM   #15
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Typically the batteries with a lower mAh rating will discharge faster and give you better acceleration power. milliamp hours is the amount of time the battery will run. A higher milliamp rating means the battery will run for a longer time, but a lower one means that the battery will dump its power faster. I like the 700 mAh batteries myself, in a NiMh (Nickel metal hydride). Also, as for upgrade parts, look in to some carbon fiber H bars and a new steering set if it still has the stock one. There are some really good steering parts sets that hold up better than the stock equipment. I have a set on my Z that is difficult to explain, but it is red in color and available on many online shops. there are 3 different tie rods that you can use to adjust your toe in. I also like to get custom pinion gears that have more teeth than the pinion gears that come with the Mini Z set. That way you have a higher top end speed if you are going to race around a longer track.

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