Is the way it goes. Grant says that you should make sure the two shims are facing the same way -- from the factory, the steel shims are a little concave in one direction, and you should match up the concave sides to make the stack of shims as solid as possible. If you don't, then when you tighten the hub, the shim stack can compress (it's like a bunch of cone springs at this point), and you will move the inner races of the bearings relative to the outer races, thus binding up the bearing.
Is the way it goes. Grant says that you should make sure the two shims are facing the same way -- from the factory, the steel shims are a little concave in one direction, and you should match up the concave sides to make the stack of shims as solid as possible. If you don't, then when you tighten the hub, the shim stack can compress (it's like a bunch of cone springs at this point), and you will move the inner races of the bearings relative to the outer races, thus binding up the bearing.
where is the symbol for the outer wheel n inner wheel? Sorry very noob with this item...
I used and AWD bearing for the outside bearing, and added one silver shim to the outside of that. The hub tightens down all the way to the knuckle and the wheels spin free (as long as you have the silver shims placed correctly, and the bearings spin before going in).
I have a small problem with this too.. works fine on my alu wheels with just the orange spacer. however with all my plastic grp wheels it needs the silver shims.. first off my set only came with 1 shim not 4 which shouldn't be a problem as I have a pack of the 3mmx0.2 shims anyway, but the shims have a larger OD than the orange shim and jam in the wheel centerhole..obviously this locks up the whole assembly..do I drill out the wheels a fraction? or are the shims supplied with the axle assembly smaller than the std pn 0.2mm shims. doesn't look like it to me..
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