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Old 2009.06.17, 11:06 PM   #16
egonzalez
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Thanks for all the info/input…I’m glad were finally getting some good drivers sharing and participating in this discussing. Keep it coming… How much can we attribute to raw driving talent? If we had to give a percentage value to driver talent over car setup, what would those values be? (80/20)?
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Old 2009.06.17, 11:17 PM   #17
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Raw talent = 70% (if not more)
Setup = 20%
Equipment = 10%
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Old 2009.06.17, 11:52 PM   #18
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pretty good read thus far...
Quote:
If we had to give a percentage value to driver talent over car setup, what would those values be? (80/20)?
i've always wondered how would top level drivers do in a completely box stock race... literally no setting up of the car whatsoever... i figure given all things equal, talent for the most part would indeed play a bigger role than set up...

open it up to having different set ups, and having the access to better parts allows for many factors / variables to consider...

having better batteries alone, i believe is a huge advantage... that's why some races in japan include hand out batteries (the throw away kind) during races, so that the playing field would more or less be equal...

as for tips... (not too much of a radio set up, but more on your driving style) i asked a wise old (well not so old) or should i say more experienced driver... what's your secret? and he told me... in order to go fast... you have to go slow... ????...

kinda didn't make sense at first... but he goes on to explain that... at first it does sound weird, but you will have to develop your driving style, which means consistently going through the track without any mistakes, and discovering your own racing line...

going fast just invites some room for error... for inconsistencies... in summary go as fast as you can without making any mistakes... be consistent...

after taking it all in, it all made more sense...

and in order to be more consistent, you have to practice, practice and practice...

hope this helps...
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Old 2009.06.17, 11:55 PM   #19
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeL View Post
I've never seen you drive, but I have seen and driven fast guys cars who also tell me they are on throttle the whole time, but if you watch their trigger finger it's really not You have to let off even 20% just to get some weight transfer, 100% of the time I remind myself to calm down and go a little slower, I go a little faster
When I say. "I don't let off the throttle". I mean I don't put the throttle to neutral position. Of course you have to release the throttle from full throttling. How do you expect to go around the corners without slowing down? I just always have my fingers on throttle. Not necessarily in FULL throttle.
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Old 2009.06.18, 06:39 AM   #20
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I know when I'm at the track I try to track how I did in each qualifier / main and map those results into car setup or line/strategy changes. I make sure to count if I had to get marshalled (or back up in mini-z), what was my fastest lap (and how many), what was my average lap time, what is the difference between my fastest and average lap time.

All in all, generally there is only three things you can do out on the track to be faster
1 - don't blow out and need to get marshalled
2 - stay consistent / hit your lines
3 - find better lines, change setup and go faster!

Edel - often you have the fastest lap in mod 02 qualifier or mains at Maj's, so I think you have #3 covered... but maybe your car is too much on the edge to successful complete items #1 and #2?
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Old 2009.06.18, 11:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
I now use 3PK because I like the feel of the throttle. I has longer range for more resolution. Same goes to the steering. It's not too snappy like the super dooper advance feature you get on a UR and no, it is not the same if you lower down the curves or changing it to "high" instead of "advance".
I'm pretty sure the UR felt too snappy because you always left it on Quick Response set to 120%, lol... I leave it on 60-90% nowadays because it's as you said, not smooth enough at high percentages. Response time be darned, the smoothness makes the car a lot harder to unsettle.




Egonzalez- driver skill probably makes up 80% of the equation at the 1/28 scale, especially with our wonderful RCP foam barriers stopping the cars dead cold when you brush them. Setup and equipment make up the rest of it, with equipment making the smallest difference IMO (better batteries are not going to make up for missing the apex at a corner).
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Old 2009.06.19, 02:18 AM   #22
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...better batteries are not going to make up for missing the apex at a corner
agree... but wouldn't you agree having better batteries would indeed be... er ''better''?...

better is kinda relative... it's been more of a "feel" thing (i.e. it feels like it has more punch...)

if i remember it right somebody pitted some batteries against each other in determining the better battery... just can't remember who...

anyway given this info, wouldn't you go for the better battery?... if i had the means... of course... but yep i would still have to make that apex though...

given all things equal... it's driving skill that will set one apart from the others...

as an individual (at your own skill level)... it's they way you set up your car according to your driving skill that will set you apart from the others...

what may work for one, may not work for the other... so in a sense, develop your style, then your set up according to your style, and see if a certain change would generally benefit your runtime... and most importantly have fun doing it.... hope this helps
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Old 2009.06.19, 04:52 AM   #23
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Of course better is better, lol... but anyways, I meant that I would care about having the best equipment only long after polishing driving skills and chassis setup. Case in point, I'm still running my old packs of Orion 900's... they were still good enough for a lap record at Kenon so I really don't bother getting the "latest and greatest" batteries. Though obviously if I had them, breaking the record would be made easier (I tend to get passed on the straightaway, go figure. )
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Old 2009.06.19, 11:35 AM   #24
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I'm pretty sure the UR felt too snappy because you always left it on Quick Response set to 120%, lol... I leave it on 60-90% nowadays because it's as you said, not smooth enough at high percentages. Response time be darned, the smoothness makes the car a lot harder to unsettle.
I never messed around with Quick Response. It was always on "OFF". Unless otherwise, OFF is default to 120%.

Quote:
Though obviously if I had them, breaking the record would be made easier (I tend to get passed on the straightaway, go figure. )
not necessarily. Slower car= tighter corners. So while others are pushing, you're cutting. This also depends on the layout of the track. If there's more straights that turns then faster motor/best batts is a must.

Good example. Lex Tyler at PNWC Vegas. His car was the slowest out of the 8 cars on the grid and still manages to take 1st home by driving much tighter lines... watch the videos.
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Old 2009.06.19, 07:38 PM   #25
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I never messed around with Quick Response. It was always on "OFF". Unless otherwise, OFF is default to 120%.
Really? Whenever I borrowed your UR it always felt like you had it on, especially on the throttle.

I don't remember last year's PNWC Vegas layout, but this year's regional layout is open enough that I think horsepower could make a difference... prove me wrong TJ, take that 2WD Stock title already.
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Old 2009.06.19, 11:06 PM   #26
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Great discussion…. Therefore, at the end of the day it does not come down to a good or bad driving style.
1. Tune your car’s setup to suit your specific driving style.
2. Your ultimate goal should be to stay as consistent as possible.
3. The car should feel and seem slow but smooth while turning faster lap times. (tight cornering)
4. Batteries are factored in depending on the class that you are racing in. (Mod v Stock)
a. Some motors require batteries that have more top end and some require more punch?
5. Practice… Practice…Practice 80/20 (Driving Talent to Setup and Equipment ratio)

Please feel free to add/edit the list above…
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Old 2009.06.20, 02:56 AM   #27
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Really? Whenever I borrowed your UR it always felt like you had it on, especially on the throttle.

I don't remember last year's PNWC Vegas layout, but this year's regional layout is open enough that I think horsepower could make a difference... prove me wrong TJ, take that 2WD Stock title already.
I only mess around with Curves and HiPoint. To be honest with you, after the KO race I totally changed my driving. By no means that my 3PK change my driving but it helped out a lot. The resolution I get from this thing is just amazing... super smooth and I'm sure you can do the same on the KOPROPO's but the throttle feel (travel) is just not the same for me.

You're right Brian. Motors and batteries do make a difference but you can still compete with a slower motor especially if you're running against aggresive driving style.

I'm stuck in 2nd place at PN regionals in '08 and KO GP in March '09. I hope to improve it this year. We'll see.
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Old 2009.06.20, 03:07 AM   #28
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3. The car should feel and seem slow but smooth while turning faster lap times. (tight cornering)
Let me explain this part. You litterally have to smoothly turn your steering wheel while slowly letting of the throttle (not all the way to neutral position) just like how you would on a real car and when it's safe, get back on the throttle smoothly. By doing so you're eliminating wheel scrub and this makes your car corners harder and faster. You guys really have to pay attention to this as this is all what every driver forgets to do.

I suggest to build a car that pushes to teach the driver to let off the throttle and learn to have a better throttle control.
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Old 2010.11.27, 12:33 PM   #29
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I have raced with TJAY and the way he describes his driving style is the same way that I would describe mine. All actions are to be slow and smooth, nothing is to be abrupt. When entering a sweeper turn the wheel as little as possible and let off throttle just enough to get it to go through but not scrub. For hairpin turns I enter the turn by slowly letting off throttle, slowly turn the wheel to a mid point position, then at the apex turn the wheel all the way to get it to snap through, then slowly turn the wheel back to exit smoothly. When it comes to dual rate some people say I use a lot. But I REALLY dont. I use the throw at the apex of the turns only, not all the way through. When it comes to throttle I always use negative expo because I like the feeling of having my finger on throttle even though the percentage of throttle is backed down. My theory is if your car pitches or kicks in the turn, you lose time. You never want to see your car double steer or pitch in or out of a turn. Straight line chicanes and turn the wheel as little as possible. Hope I was of some help. Any questions on radio setup as away.
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