Maybe I'm getting more daring but I seem to be smacking my VE LM bodies in the front with more frequency and keep cracking the fronts. I then use 5 min epoxy but still they will end up breaking again.
I see 3 Racing made some carbon reinforcement plates but don't want to limit my ground clearance in the front anymore than it is already!
Any ideas or solutions ? Seems its my LM VE's that it's happening to (787B and (62C to be exact) --- of course I don't have this issue with my 70T cars
I have used some thin G10 fiberglass and cut it out to fit up in the front nose of the body. After it is fitted in the nose I put some GOOP above the fiberglass plate to fill in the area around the headlights.
Atomic also made some reinforcement pieces for certain bodies. They do not reduce ground clearance. Kyosho and Qtec also makes bumpers for the cars. Some are for specific bodies, others are general.
reinforcement pieces are typically sized and installed to the inside profile of the body making them flat with the nose of the car so as pointed out, will not reduce ground clearance. bumpers on the other hand will.
Good info guys ---- I just ordered some G10 sheets in .062 and .040 thickness and ill cut/sand a plate for my LM's
So installing it flush with the bottom of the nose is best to help prevent the cracking from hard front hits into RCP rails? How should I affix? CA or 5 Epox or Bondix etc?
Any tips would be great ---- I have Marine Goop already
I use gap filling CA and let it cure on its own. Using accelerator make the joint brittle. After getting the piece completely glued and cured I then use foaming Gorilla glue to fill in the void between the splitter and body. Be careful not to get it in the nose clip socket or you will have hours of entertainment cleaning it out. Since the Gorilla glue foams it has no weight penalty. Use a Dremel to grind out the excess for proper tire clearance. You may then use ramming speed with virtual impunity save maybe headlight covers.
I use gap filling CA and let it cure on its own. Using accelerator make the joint brittle. After getting the piece completely glued and cured I then use foaming Gorilla glue to fill in the void between the splitter and body. Be careful not to get it in the nose clip socket or you will have hours of entertainment cleaning it out. Since the Gorilla glue foams it has no weight penalty. Use a Dremel to grind out the excess for proper tire clearance. You may then use ramming speed with virtual impunity save maybe headlight covers.
These are good ideas. Also ive used a good hot glue to fill in asround the piece you make.
Great ideas....., its a pain to crash and crack your bodies...
Could you guys show us some example pictures of your reinforcements?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Keely
I have used some thin G10 fiberglass and cut it out to fit up in the front nose of the body. After it is fitted in the nose I put some GOOP above the fiberglass plate to fill in the area around the headlights.
What G10 thickness worked for you?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blf
Good info guys ---- I just ordered some G10 sheets in .062 and .040 thickness and ill cut/sand a plate for my LM's........
Here's a Porsche 962 with a popsicle stick shaped and glued to the front. This body has a very fragile head light bucket. This body was raced by me and later my son. It has not cracked at all.
The bumper on this chassis is flush with the bottom of the chassis. I also have the Kyosho Mazda 787 bumper and it is also higher than the bottom of the chassis.
I noticed the newer Toyota GT-One body has a front lower black diffuser lip that is held in place by two self tapping screws - it's the exact same principle as above and what everyone is talking about on this thread. They must have noticed it as a weak point.
I saw (and purchased) specific IC tag compatible clear bumpers for the 962, 787 and Sauber Merc that we run to check them out. Interesting that they are ONLY made for the 3 shells I've managed to crack
I really like the handling of the 458 Italia but dont race it as much as I'd like to because of it's fragile nose.
I adapted a credit card + some Bondic glue to try to reinforce the structure. Also added some Goop glue to the inner body (front). Negative: I added ca. 2g of extra weight to the front. Total weight: 31g
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