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Old 2007.03.26, 10:06 AM   #31
sillypuddy
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i am down for 1-2 once they get in

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Old 2007.03.26, 06:26 PM   #32
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Great; I'm just biding my time till junior year nears a close and then pre-orders will be offered, chassis will be cut, kits put together, etc.

If it's of any interest to anyone, I tweaked the design a little bit and got a Thunder Power 730mAh LiPo to fit in the battery tray. I'm getting a pack for the demo car, hehe...
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Old 2007.03.31, 10:03 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by color01
If it's of any interest to anyone, I tweaked the design a little bit and got a Thunder Power 730mAh LiPo to fit in the battery tray. I'm getting a pack for the demo car, hehe...
Didn't see this on IRC, R7R, or any of the various xmods forums you posted it on...

Do you have an update picture of the cad drawing of this, or is not noticable... Can't wait for someone to buy one so I can get pictures and inspiration to start my chassis again..
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Old 2007.04.01, 06:36 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdog4w
Over at greyscale we were talking about this stuff and were thinking mini-z could put together a package of parts to make it a roller that you could buy along with the kit. Maybe have some pulldowns to select which motor mount/brand of knuckles etc. that would adjust the price accordingly. So those who have spares just buy the kit, those who want a roller buy the kit + the accessory package. Very similar to what rc flight sites do in packaging electronics.
Absolutely!
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Old 2007.04.01, 07:24 PM   #35
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Sweed: changes are small.



And I managed to eke out enough space to provide an adapter for a Kyosho oil damper.



I'll outline what's in the kit again, as some changes were made to achieve a $75 target price.

I mainly made the basic kit simpler and tried to give the buyer more setup options to compensate. The rear end can use side springs, tri-shocks, disk damper, central oil damper, or any combination of those (excluding side springs + tri-shocks, unless you find threaded rod that is M2 on one end and 2-56 on the other). Also note that the chassis is too narrow to fit three oil dampers in the triangular fashion of, say, the Pro27 (a hot European chassis). The battery bay has been slightly redone; it can fit a 4AAA pack, a Thunder Power 2S 730mAh lithium-polymer, or almost anything smaller.

Included parts:

G10 chassis pieces: main chassis, lower front end, upper front end pieces (0/1.5/3 caster), servo strap, -1/0/+1 toe tierods, battery strap, flex plate, body post/clip mount (doubles as damper mount) disk damper/tri-shock adapter, central oil damper adapter
All required hardware: standoffs, screws, nuts (and if possible, threadable spring perches to adjust rear stiffness with springs).

Required:

MR02 front knuckles, kingpins, springs, c-clips
MR02 ball differential, RM motor mount
Wheels, tires, bearings
Servo, servo saver, receiver and ESC (or combo), motor, battery pack
Body: hard plastic (AutoScale, etc.) or Lexan

Optional:

Extra MR02 front springs for rear end tuning
Atomic RM DPSII spare parts set (includes the 3 plastic shock assemblies)
Atomic AR-071 4.1mm ball nut (for tri-shock system)
Disk damper post (Atomic, PN, etc.)
Disk damper friction disks (Atomic, PN, etc.)
Disk damper springs (Atomic, PN, etc.)
Kyosho MR02 oil damper or equivalent


That should be the complete list. The hardware included is reasonably comprehensive, allowing for multiple configurations. However, for now at least, Lexan body fans will have to provide their own posts and clips. All I can include are the screws.

Mini-z, I assume we'll have to negotiate a bit when the time comes... but I could really use your help in getting this thing out as a product.
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Last edited by color01; 2007.04.05 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 2007.04.05, 01:02 PM   #36
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Looking good, definitely up for one myself.

-Ced
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Old 2007.04.13, 01:14 PM   #37
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If it's gonna stay at $70, I *might* pick one up if my Crawler idea falls through.
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Old 2007.05.08, 03:27 PM   #38
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Yeah yeah, more teasers... getting ready to buy a 4-axis CNC mill, so why not take advantage of its capabilities?




Rear end options:

Here's the basic rear end:


With side springs:


Side springs + oil damper:


Side springs + disk damper:


Disk damper + tri-shock system:


etc.





Mini-Z, is there anything special I need to consider (besides cutting costs) regarding selling this chassis through you? We haven't talked in a while.
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Old 2007.05.08, 04:21 PM   #39
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That tie rod final or temporary in the colored render?

Does the tie rod flex? If so that is going to act like an unbalanced spring from left to right...

If not.. its going to prevent the knuckles from moving up and down with the suspension.. unless there is another seperation between parts from that screw to the knuckle...
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Old 2007.05.08, 04:38 PM   #40
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it looks like the servo horn shoe has depth to it to account for that movement?
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Old 2007.05.08, 05:15 PM   #41
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Cannot see enough of the tie rod to tell, but it just looks like it has enough room for the arch effect in the servo horn...
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Old 2007.05.08, 09:59 PM   #42
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Drac: The tierod is raised above the knuckle level, just like the standard 02. It won't bend under suspension compression, because the chassis will bottom out before the knuckle forces the tierod upwards. No worries.

Arch: The servo horn shoe does have a lot of depth to allow for different servos and the height of the horn when installed in the chassis. Since it's open-bottomed, you can also take out the tierod without messing with the servo.
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Old 2007.05.09, 05:17 AM   #43
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I still see potential problems... unless there will be more parts to contain it, I fear that if its loose it will not function, or it will jam, twist, or disconnect...

I see the screws on the knuckles as having to lock down, to keep the toe-setting from changing... yet having to be loose to function with the suspension.. and to actualy allow it to be free enough to turn, cannot do both loose and tight on the same screw. Are these using the pre existing mr02 alloy knuckles?

I also think those front tower like parts, to hold the king pin on, could be adjustable for the 015 and 02 front widths... it cold tilt in and out on the rear screw and have 2 front screw holes for setting the width. that should allow the area of the king pin to move the 1-2mm or whatever it is between the cars. But thats just me putting in the adjustability that I am putting in my chassis...

Buying a 4-axis mill... not just for this car I hope? would be cheaper to contract the work out locally... and most of it could be done on a 2D laser cutter. I also asume you know G-Code, or master cam, or cimitron? Mills are NOT easy to use... also you could get away with a 3axis for almost all of those parts... you could always do a manual mill.. but why oh why these days?!

The machine I want is $600,000 and makes titanium parts like a printer Anyone can use it... If I thought I could sell more custom parts to anyone who wants their own parts made... I would buy the machine right now, especialy since they just released a new version with .025mm accuracy!!! Anything can be made on this thing regardless of complexity mold partings etc... from 1mm thick parts to about 7-8" wide parts... titanium rims anyone?
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Old 2007.05.09, 04:21 PM   #44
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The screws are not on the knuckles, they are on the front hubs, acting as guide pins for the tierod to move left and right. The tierod doesn't have to bend or move up and down at all. Standard MR02 knuckles are used here. I think that's the source of all this confusion.



I could make an MR015-width front end for this car, but I sacrifice the strength of the hubs (btw, the current ones are hollow inside to save some weight ). I can make a narrower front end in the future if necessary, but not now.

I'm sharing the mill with a friend who is heavily involved in the school robotics club, so we're sharing the cost and he's teaching me the school's software along the way. I've checked with a few local and not-so-local machinists, they aren't willing to do the tolerances I'd like for any affordable cost. I want better than +/- 0.0075mm, so we (me + friend) will do the machining and I will hand finish parts if need be. Should be feasible, I'm not making too many kits all at once.
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Old 2007.05.09, 05:54 PM   #45
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The screw is the retainer not part of the knuckle... I see now

You really shouldnt need any better than .01mm tollerance... that is so small its not even measurable by eye... Plastic parts will shrink and warp more than that out of any molds, but you likely wont have molds.

To get parts in this tollerance range even with a CNC machine you have to stop it now and then measure, and then continue the part till it fits the right tollerance this is a major pain in the butt and makes a 20 minute part take 2 hours to make... this is why it will be expensive, and very time consuming if you try to do it yourself you will eventualy give in and accept more tollerance . So you could have a economy, and elite version based on tollerance .

If I get my machine I can always make parts I need to sell parts so I can afford the beast. The parts from this machine can always be put on a lathe or mill for final specs and tollerances.
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