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Old 2018.02.01, 09:51 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Thorvald View Post
Don't forget I'm talking Canadian $$$ lol. I also include the cost of the KO Radio ($370 Can for the RR right now).

The GL is nice but the stock ESC was horrible, the Swave sensored is much smoother (however it has teething issue too that will hopefully be resolved). So add another $150 Cdn approx for that.

It's nice to see the newer stock Kyosho cars have the rear damper included and a better motor mount but I'm sure people will still get the "upgrade" bug if they are new to Mini-Z.


I think it is a forgone conclusion, any hobby a man (and some women) gets into turns into a money pit lol!
I forget about the conversion... It can be fun to hop up the cars for a while, but when you dont have the time or the funds, and want to race, its more about getting a car on track and turning laps for the least amount of money with a good amount of competitiveness. I loved box stock racing, with only bearings, wheels and tires. Never had to wrench the car unless it got wrecked...

Its easy to focus too much on the parts on the car than what the setup is needed for the track. Try this part, try that part... Most tracks that I would go to, I would just get a good base setup, and just drive. Some of my better cars were very simple setups. Almost bare minimum, motormount (heatsinks), damper fluid/grease and springs. This is all that I would recommend for a new racer initially. If you an get a 48t motor, pack the differentials with grease, and just turn laps. As things break, upgrade them. Swingshafts and diff outdrives tend to go first. I would use alloy in rear, and stock in front for my stock class car, and full alloy in mod.

Transportation without a car racing RC is a little difficult. The good thing about the Mini-Z is everything can fit in a backpack if only running one car. I used to travel 2.5-3.5hrs each way for years via public transport every week. See what classes they run, and try to setup the car appropriately. If they are running modified cars, I think a motor around 48-50t would still be a good option to start with. If you have a lot of RC experience, then you may want more once you dial in the setup. Most important is getting on the right tires... if those are wrong, nothing else matters.
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Last edited by EMU; 2018.02.01 at 10:04 AM.
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