i've noticed that the MZR bearings eventually act strange when seeing axial load.
meaning, if the car is flat, the bearings will spin forever, but if the car is tipped, mocking the forces the wheels would see when cornering, they stick like glue...
i've done thorough shield-off cleanings, etc and nothing seems to solve this...
what bearings has anyone run that last a long time and have little drag?
a nice teflon sealed ceramic would be ideal maybe?
Also,
speaking of axial loads, it's a damn shame how the typical mini-z ball diff design kills thrust bearings...anyone have a solution for that? I mean i know why it happens, those bearings are simply not made to see the angle of force they are seeing, but still...
the MZR dry bearings are the best I have ever seen, and plan to order a new set for my 02 this week.
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the MZR dry bearings are the best I have ever seen, and plan to order a new set for my 02 this week.
i concur. without a doubt they can be the fastest bearings i've ever seen, period.
however, something happens at a certain point with some of them where when seeing a load axially, such as when turning, they slow up considerably. Now, even when they are 'slowing', they are still rather free, but i notice that other examples of the MZR bearings will act the same no matter what direction the load is coming from...
i'm just curious if they are compromising somehow after a time.
i have 3 installed sets of these things on all of my MR02's and now two NIP spare sets. i'm not knocking them, but i'd like to know if ceramic bearings would possibly outlast them with this condition.
Is it the bearing or is it the diff rubbing on the bearing house instead of the center of the beearing that moves freely? I've found the same with all bearings running a stock diff and other ball diffs. The K diff has been the best at spinning on the center of the bearing because of the design on the inside of the diff( the thread) and the opposite side that holds the wheel is tapered. I'd have to actually check this more closely.
One way I've checked is to hold the one side by the wheel and actually pressing on at the spokes towards the motor to see if it binds up. If it doesn't then it's good, if it does I usually run the diff with a little more play than normal or just switch it out. I've seen some people use small shims but to wide a shim will definataly bind on side loads.
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