Revised my list of first add ons. For the new ones downloading a manual is a good idea to understand the layout of your car, there is a thread in the Members section with a link. I decided to put this here so more members can see it and use it. This is aimed at the racer series cars of Kyosho or Iwaver.
1. Lock nuts, The stock plastic ones strip out after one or two times you use them. With any Mini Z you will be removing the wheels to clean out the hairs and stuff that get wound up in the hub area.
2. Tires, I put tires here as most like to get these early on. With 10 being the softest and 50 being hardest, There are 8 and 15's in this mix, but I wanted to keep it simple.
3. Bearings, These go good at making a car more solid than the stock bushings, And these make a night and day difference in the way the car runs.
4. Rear plate, I list this at number four because it ties the rear pod to the chassis. A good plate would hold up better than the plastic one, and still good to have a replacement on hand to get you back into the game. These are specific to the chassis type, MM, RM, even the MR01 plate is different and the MM plate is shorter than the RM plate.
5. Suspension or Handling parts, Spring sets or steering bars your choice to tune your car however you like.
After this the in no particular order, alloy parts, ball diff, hotter motors, whatever you want to run would have a stable platform to work with.
This is a basic upgrade list for new Mini Z racers, but alot of the stuff can still be used for Overlands and Monsters or even the F1 cars. The most expensive item in this list is the bearings, I have included them because of the double shot improvement these make. So these are a must have in the basic upgrade list. The idea here is to have a good list you can use to upgrade your car and not break the bank, and yes number five is optional. Four can only be used on the racers, like the MR01 and the RML cars because of the lack of a rear shock it is all holding the rear pod on the car
It means first it makes the moving parts work smoother, and then it also supports the wheels better giving you a tighter more responsive feel over the stock bushings. I have seen some $5 bearing sets floating around, but I don't trust them that much. I have seen some of those cheap ones run once or twice before they fall appart. The Bearings in the http://shop.tinyrc.com/ I have used and are solid made. The dry bearings are about the best I have seen, the enduro bearings are good to but can be stiff at first because of the heavy grease used in them. These below are the shops bearings for the racers and F1's, They have the Olerland and Monster bearings too.
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