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Old 2011.12.06, 11:37 AM   #1
greenepa76
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Post for common issues and fixes for Mini-z buggies

Hey everyone, I love the release of these new buggies, but there are some problems that will start tallying up so I thought I'd post about some early noticeable issues if it has not already been done so.

1. I've had the servo/steering linkage pop off so many times already. This requires some disassembly of the front end to reattach. I run the Optima version with the large spikes on RCP with the front tires taped on the inside bead since they seem to be the only ones that come off if not secured. The linkage pops and you loose steering when you tag an RCP side barrier hard enough coming out of a hairpin. I haven't had it pop off through large sweepers yet since the servo and steering linkage is not at full lock.

2. Front dog bones wearing out too quickly at the outer steel shaft area. As with any r/c using dog bones, these wear so quickly and are under the most stress because the outer joint cross pins are encountering the extreme steering angles and up/ down movement of the suspension. I wore these out so quickly, that I ended up drilling the dog bone to accept carbon fiber rods inserted to be used as crosspins. I'm sure steel pins would also work, but I've used the carbon pinned side inserted towards the diff gear shaft.

I've also added little bits of foam inserted into the half shaft in the diff gear side to help keep the dog bones " pushed" out so that the outer pins stay interfaced with the outer axle shafts, where the wear occurs most on the plastic pins. This "loading" of the dog bones is used on full size 10th scale cars also, but sometimes they use rubber o rings instead to keep them from floating in and out causing premature wear or violent locking and possibly breakage of the axle shaft at the slot. On my Optima version, I noticed at full steering lock, the crosspins would come slightly out of contact with the slot they interface with causing accelerated wear and possibly shearing off the pins when they are worn down.


I hope Kyosho releases some sort of update/ addendum for this or universal joints to alleviate this issue for those that cannot afford to buy option parts. I foresee it happening more and more often as the miles build on these and more powerful motors are used. I've got my Optima and Lazer version completely stock at the moment and use these a few times a week. So far, these two items are the ones that seem to stand out the most affecting performance and durability. Please post what you can to help the rest of the new owners out there.
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Old 2011.12.06, 11:45 AM   #2
ScoobyPete
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I have an issue with my Lazer buggy, is anyone else getting a much faster speed in reverse than forwards?
I've tried to reverse the EX10 and that just gives you a pause when pulling away

Why didn't they put the optima front bumper on the Laser? It would save damage to knuckles and linkages. That's gonna be one of my 1st purchases for the lazer.
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Old 2011.12.07, 04:45 AM   #3
oXYnary
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Mine wouldn't even go in reverse at first. It turns out the expo was off from the factory on my radio.

Do you have another radio you can try?
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Old 2011.12.07, 04:53 AM   #4
ScoobyPete
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I have tried 2 Ex10 helios, both have the same result. Haven't tried a KT18 yet but cant see that making much diff, Other option is to get hold of an ICS cable. Wont be able to do that till the 18th though
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Old 2011.12.07, 04:54 AM   #5
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I can see this being a popular thread. I've had all the issues listed. I did however find that turning the gain down on the steering through ICS did help with the steering popping out issue.
Also the lazer tyres come off the rim just looking at them! i have now glued mine up.
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Old 2011.12.07, 05:39 AM   #6
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did you get anywhere with the Forward./ Reverse on the ICS Kryten?
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Old 2011.12.07, 05:29 PM   #7
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I think I found something that might help reduce play some in hubs (which may help slightly with dogbones overextending). The front and rear hubs have a bit of side play on the a-arm. If you can find some like .2mm thickness shims, it might help reduce it (not too thick as you don't want to bind it). Is the suspension pin 2mm? So like ID 2mm hole .2mm thick shims.

Might also help with even more exacting steering as there isnt as much play.

Edit: Here is what I found. The align would be the best fit, but finding that part number is hard, you can get it in the 450se hardware kit, but your buying extra stuff you don't need.

Tamiya 9805758 Washers 2x6x0.5mm
HIROBO #2506-001 FLAT WASHER 2X6X0.4T
Kyosho kp 1-w2000604 Washers M2X6X0.4
ALign w10020-1 2 X 3.6 X 0.2mm (4per pack)

Last edited by oXYnary; 2011.12.07 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 2011.12.08, 02:57 PM   #8
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Shameless plug here:

use some of the Reflex Reverse kingpin set-up springs inside the diff cups to push your dogbones out. These work much better than O-Rings.

I'll post a little article of a Buggy Build on the site soon. I'll try to get it done next week.
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Old 2011.12.10, 12:08 PM   #9
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I can confirm that the RR reverse KP setup springs are perfect for the dogbones.
I use the black ones.

The steering rods pops out easily when you snag a barrier. This is a thing I would like to see a better solution for.
I know something have to give, but i would think the servo saver are up to the task.
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Old 2011.12.10, 07:22 PM   #10
oXYnary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oXYnary View Post
HIROBO #2506-001 FLAT WASHER 2X6X0.4T
Kyosho kp 1-w2000604 Washers M2X6X0.4
ALign w10020-1 2 X 3.6 X 0.2mm (4per pack)
Welll.. I just found out Align doesn't sell those separately. Have to buy as part of a tail assembly. I'm going to attempt to research some more here and see if I can find anything else. The .4 still would help though as the inner front arm attached to the bulkhead, there is about .5mm of play back and forth. Just unsure if a 6mm outer diameter is going to bind.

EDIT: Here we go.
Kyosho 695013-10 2x4x0.2mm Shim Set - Pure 10 EP (Not sure how many)
Thunder Tiger PV0787 Washer 2x3.7x0.5 E325 V1/V2 (10)

Ultimate has that Kyosho part in stock.

Last edited by oXYnary; 2011.12.10 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 2011.12.16, 10:56 AM   #11
greenepa76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Shameless plug here:

use some of the Reflex Reverse kingpin set-up springs inside the diff cups to push your dogbones out. These work much better than O-Rings.

I'll post a little article of a Buggy Build on the site soon. I'll try to get it done next week.
I guess I'll try the springs once these foam inserts wear out a bit.
Can't wait for the article, but what happened to all the other articles you guys had on site? Looks like half of them are missing.
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Old 2011.12.21, 03:12 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by greenepa76 View Post
2. Front dog bones wearing out too quickly at the outer steel shaft area. As with any r/c using dog bones, these wear so quickly and are under the most stress because the outer joint cross pins are encountering the extreme steering angles and up/ down movement of the suspension.
To address the issue, upgraded Dogbones are coming 1/2012; and Universals(CV) in or around 2/2012
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Old 2012.02.21, 04:01 AM   #13
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Has anyone figured a way to keep shock shafts from bending so easily? Thats my biggest complaint so far. Especially since I cannot buy them separately versus a whole shock.

I wish Kyosho or an aftermarket company would offer a big bore conversion, so that shafts diameter wouldnt be so small (and you could have dual seals in the shock versus the one alone they have now which allows the shaft to wiggle and leak slowly all over).
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