I just bought a Ferrari 360 Modena. It is dramatically faster using even the 6 tooth pinion than my Porsche GT3 using the 7 tooth pinion. The Ferrari is a recent model for Kyosho and I bought it from a dealer who received it from Kyosho very recently. The Porsche I bought was older stock.
Could there be improvements in the cars over time that account for the speed difference or is this normal variation?
I have to say I love the wider track of the Ferrari and the wide rear tires. I'm upgrading the Porsche with new rims, wider tires, differential, and bearings. Sort of a shame because I should start with the faster stock car.
From our early observations racing about a dozen cars with stock motors, there seemed to be one motor that was noticeably stronger than the others. My guess is that the stock motor is either a) made with poor quality control, and therefore has wide production variances and/or b) sourced from different factories. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Even still, that one motor didn't quite match up to an X-speed. I also think that you find fewer performance variations among the a group of x-speed motors.
some bodys are lighter than others though... and lighter means less wieght for the motor to make go fast!
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Obviously batteries matter rather a lot, too. The wide stance is deceptive--the car really does stick to the floor in the corners so it is easier to drive the car faster.
Can you point me to a post or link with instructions on cleaning the motor?
Well i'm thinking u just need to put a little bit of oil on both end of the motor to make it run better, assuming u have never done that. Or if it needs a rebuild:
1. remove motor wires from motor leads buy unscrewing the two screws on the opening of the PCB (little circuit board that has an opening near the back).
2.take off the pinion of the motor. (the motor should be completely free from the Z.
3.Now press a hot soddering iron the on the two soddering jobs u can see on the outside of the motor can that hook to the capacitators on the endbell. (little tan cirular things on the plastic piece on top of the motor, they look like advil pills kinda).
4. Once you have de-soddered those wires from the outside of the motor can take a small screw driver and undo the 2 metal tabs that hold down the endbell (endbell=little plastic piece on the top of the can)
5.Now gently remove the armature buy gently pulling the endbell out of the can which should bring the armature with it (armature=little metal spindel looking thing with copper wire wound around 3 arms)
6.Pull out the 2 brackets in between the motor magnets and then free the magnets from the can.
7.Now take a small brush whatever u need to sweep away dust dirt whatever u may find in there.
8.When you are putting the armature back into the can make sure that the two brushes on the inside of the end bell don't bend when you put the arm through them and into the end bell or u'll have to buy new ones.
9.Keep both sides of your motor where u see the armature end lubed with any light lubrication (I use 3 in 1 oil).
man too much trouble for me... i normally wouldn't open a motor unless i know the brushes are really worn down...
my cleaning method... purchase motor prep spray... (which is usually available at your lhs)... use tubelike straw and attatch to spray nozzle... spray into motor (through the square holes)... directions on the can say.."disconnect all electrical power sources before using. apply nenerously with actuator close to the surface. use handy extension tube for hard to reach areas. allow motor or component to dry completely before reconnecting power source."
well i'm in violation of the last sentence... since i run it when there's still some amount of spray in the motor... i do this because it helps spin out the dirt when it runs...
after it dries... put a couple of drops of bearing oil on both sides of the motor where you can see the armature...
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