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Old 2017.01.25, 08:32 PM   #31
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Thanks for the feedback. I will try a few different alloy tie rods and see what feels best. I am reluctant to use the plastic, I know that I have broken so many at the wrong times although I like their performance the best.
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Old 2017.01.25, 09:58 PM   #32
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Hi,

Thanks for the feedback so far. Plastic is the way to go. We've been using it for close to six months and no issues. We run the cars with touring cars sometimes. We've had some very bad hits. Never a problem with the toe bar.

Keep building. Would love some more independent feedback!
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Old 2017.01.25, 10:07 PM   #33
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BTW, Kevin designed a brushed motor mount. Should be ready for pickup this Friday. Will need to build another test mule and see how well it works. We are curious as to the handling differences it will make.

On a related note, also testing shorter version high speed stability kit with corresponding shorter wheelbase. Initial testing is extremely positive.
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Old 2017.01.26, 05:45 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinister_Y View Post
BTW, Kevin designed a brushed motor mount. Should be ready for pickup this Friday. Will need to build another test mule and see how well it works. We are curious as to the handling differences it will make.

On a related note, also testing shorter version high speed stability kit with corresponding shorter wheelbase. Initial testing is extremely positive.
Both of these development aspects interest me to say the least.

A quick question about the Atomic threaded kingpin....I thought I had a set in my bag of tricks but it turns out they were sold with an MR03 chassis in the past. I was wondering what specific function the threaded aspect of the kingpin serves and can it be reproduced with a different long kingpin and shims+e-clip to get the closure?

Thanks,

D

Edit: why don't we use any grease/oil on the damper plates? The instructions say not to yet don't explain the reasoning.
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Old 2017.01.26, 09:30 PM   #35
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Hi,

I have titanium versions which are 2mm longer than the Atomic version coming. However, there is a delay due to Chinese new year. **Supposedly** the factory had finished 1/2 of the batch of new custom bits for the KMD-FR01 including that part before the holiday started. It will have to wait until after Feb 9th for business to resume, then ship, etc..

Also, please note that the Atomic kingpins are no longer available from Atomic. I was going to buy them out, but they don't make it anymore.

For now, I would advise if you have some reflex racing (long) or other brand, they would work but you'd need to shim and then put an e-clip as you've noted.

The reason for the threaded top is simply ease of adjustment. You want enough tightness to remove slop but not too much or it will impact handling especially turning (as it creates friction for the steering movement if too tight). I know as it's happened to me before. It's a pain in the arse to keep having to add or remove shims, but it can be done.
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Old 2017.01.26, 09:48 PM   #36
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Thanks for the explanation. I'm having difficulty locating the atomic part myself. Thought that I had a set from my years racing for atomic, but I must have gave them away at the track.
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Old 2017.01.27, 12:00 AM   #37
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Like the manual says if you're in a pinch you can use a ball end and a long countersunk screw. That is what we are using ona couple of cars.
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Old 2017.01.27, 11:12 AM   #38
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I do have a couple reflex extra long kingpin so I'm happy that my thoughts on e-clip and shim is workable.

I hope everyone following realizes how dedicated Shawn and Kevin are to this project. After a quick issue dealt with through email I was thoroughly impressed at their speedy responses.

With that level of support I'm confident that this is money well spent and I am looking forward to continuing my support by spending on developing projects.

Thanks again guys.
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Old 2017.01.28, 01:50 PM   #39
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so another stumbling block...I've misplaced my 2mm tap and have to buy another set.

Which pitch style is the preferred tap for mini-z?
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Old 2017.01.28, 03:30 PM   #40
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I believe Shawn already tapped all of the nessary screw holes before the chassis were sent out so you should be able to install all of the machine screws without the need to buy a new tap.
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Old 2017.01.28, 04:58 PM   #41
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My F1 knuckles were not tapped for the Atomic axle shafts. From my experiences I'm not adept enough to fake tap it with a screw....
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Old 2017.01.28, 09:28 PM   #42
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Oh yes they will need to be tapped as well. So you will need a 2mm x 0.4 tap. So the pitch is 0.4mm. If you have the stock kyosho F1 knuckles you can use those in the mean time. However they will pop out of the toe bar more often than our knuckles because the stock knuckles have sorter pins.
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Old 2017.01.28, 09:36 PM   #43
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Yah, sorry. I tap all parts that take machine screw before shipping / putting into stock except knuckles. I will start to do that. Thanks for mentioning. Thanks for the kudos. It sounds cheesy but really we love F1 and want it to be fun again and fast.
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Old 2017.01.28, 09:56 PM   #44
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It wouldn't have been a problem if I hadn't misplaced my own gear. Thanks for the tap advice...it's on its way
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Old 2017.02.14, 02:36 PM   #45
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Just wanted to know how the builds are going so far and updates? I also wanted to share this video, I'm currently the fastest in the one 28 racing world series for the F1 category. We now have four guys running the KMD-FR01 chassis at our track. The cars are taking a beating but still holding up and much faster then the Kyosho F1's. More guys at our track are going to be building their cars soon so we are looking to have more feedback soon. Here is the video link to my fastest lap https://youtu.be/zhSdV4wTm7w
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