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Old 2006.07.07, 08:39 PM   #1
fastXracer24
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Question I have no idea what a mini z is

I have recently quit xmods, and i was wanting to go to a mini z. I don't really know what to get or what they are could some one please help and explain to me what a mini z is and which one I should get?
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Old 2006.07.07, 09:15 PM   #2
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search forum, and read

Its a rc car that is same scale as an Xmod.... there are many Mini-Z... best bet is to search and read the forum tho...
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Old 2006.07.07, 09:21 PM   #3
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I think the one you choose has alot to do what you want out of it. Unlike the Xmods the Mini Z's are mostly rear wheel drive only, the MA 01 AWD car is the only one that comes with the AWD setup. For someone that came from Xmods it is most like the Xmods, with the AWD already in it. The racer series (MR cars like the MR01, MR02, and the MR015) are strong picks as well, as a rear drive car they drive well. Search around and read up on the threads here and you can learn more about them. I just covered the cars alone, as you can also get into the Monster's, Overland's, or even the F1 cars.

Drac beat me to it, anyway welcome to the forums.
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Old 2006.07.07, 09:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastXracer24
I have recently quit xmods, and i was wanting to go to a mini z. I don't really know what to get or what they are could some one please help and explain to me what a mini z is and which one I should get?
This is a big question butyou are in luck. A while ago I started to put together a brief description of all of the Mini-Z chassis. You can do some searching from here but this should get you started. Note, when I wrote this, I never got to the newest racer chassis the All Wheel Drive MA010, so this thing needs some tweaking. Enjoy...


There are four general classes of Mini-Z's; Racers, F-1, Overland and Monster. By far the racers are the most popular so I'll start with those.

There are currently four types of racers. The first generation (and my first Mini-Z) is the MR-01. It has been around for several years and can still be a competative racer. The steering is proportional. So when turning it behaves like a real car. A small turn of the steering wheel translates to a small deflection in the tires. If you have ever driven a really cheap RC car some of them only have 1-3 distinct turning positions. Any hobby quality RC car will have Propo steering.

Some of the distinct characteristics of the MR01 include a stacked battery configuration and a linked front suspension. It's a pretty good car but it has its limitations.

The second generation of racer is the MR02. Personally, I think this is still the fastest chassis even though there are 2 that have come after it. Significant improvements over the MR01 include an independent front suspension and a laydown battery configuration. Instead of stacking the batteries on top of each other on the sides of the chassis, all four AAA batteries are as low as they can be. This makes the car slightly wider but it handles way better because of the lowered CG.

The next generation is a hybrid of the MR01 and MR02...the MR015. It has the battery configuration of the MR01 but the suspenstion of the MR02.

I think the F-1's may have the most "cult" status of the Mini-Z's. They are much more difficult to drive than the racers and it's a lot easier to break parts. They are slightly larger and require considerably more driving skill. Actually, I don't know that it's that much more difficult to break parts on the F1. I used to race a very unforgiving track and the open wheel design left many drivers with broken steering knuckles. It doesn't happen as much with RCP (actually I haven't had it happen yet) but they can be fragile.

The Monster shares the same chassis as an overland. Until recently the monster was the only Mini-Z that I had not driven. Although the main chassis is the same, some of the drivetrain parts are different. As of the writing of this breakdown, I haven't really inspected the two chassis together.
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Old 2006.07.07, 10:15 PM   #5
builthatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoon
This is a big question butyou are in luck. A while ago I started to put together a brief description of all of the Mini-Z chassis. You can do some searching from here but this should get you started. Note, when I wrote this, I never got to the newest racer chassis the All Wheel Drive MA010, so this thing needs some tweaking. Enjoy...


There are four general classes of Mini-Z's; Racers, F-1, Overland and Monster. By far the racers are the most popular so I'll start with those.

There are currently four types of racers. The first generation (and my first Mini-Z) is the MR-01. It has been around for several years and can still be a competative racer. The steering is proportional. So when turning it behaves like a real car. A small turn of the steering wheel translates to a small deflection in the tires. If you have ever driven a really cheap RC car some of them only have 1-3 distinct turning positions. Any hobby quality RC car will have Propo steering.

Some of the distinct characteristics of the MR01 include a stacked battery configuration and a linked front suspension. It's a pretty good car but it has its limitations.

The second generation of racer is the MR02. Personally, I think this is still the fastest chassis even though there are 2 that have come after it. Significant improvements over the MR01 include an independent front suspension and a laydown battery configuration. Instead of stacking the batteries on top of each other on the sides of the chassis, all four AAA batteries are as low as they can be. This makes the car slightly wider but it handles way better because of the lowered CG.

The next generation is a hybrid of the MR01 and MR02...the MR015. It has the battery configuration of the MR01 but the suspenstion of the MR02.

I think the F-1's may have the most "cult" status of the Mini-Z's. They are much more difficult to drive than the racers and it's a lot easier to break parts. They are slightly larger and require considerably more driving skill. Actually, I don't know that it's that much more difficult to break parts on the F1. I used to race a very unforgiving track and the open wheel design left many drivers with broken steering knuckles. It doesn't happen as much with RCP (actually I haven't had it happen yet) but they can be fragile.

The Monster shares the same chassis as an overland. Until recently the monster was the only Mini-Z that I had not driven. Although the main chassis is the same, some of the drivetrain parts are different. As of the writing of this breakdown, I haven't really inspected the two chassis together.
def should add that the mr02 has a servo saver vs. the mr01 ; )

that is a big plus for many drivers.

to the new guy, you will find out more than you will ever need to know about these cars by browsing this forum as well as browsing the forum shop to see what is available.

definately be patient with these and you will be pleased for sure vs. the xmods.
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Old 2006.07.07, 10:25 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by builthatch
def should add that the mr02 has a servo saver vs. the mr01 ; )

that is a big plus for many drivers.
Good point. I think that's worth mentioning to a new driver. I'll include that in the next version.
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Old 2006.07.07, 10:27 PM   #7
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HammerZ pretty much hit it on the nose, except for the AWD being MA-010 .

For me the big question has to be where do you want/plan to drive it? Along with what you want out of it? Big difference between a Z for racing at a LHS or club on RCP or other track surface and one for tooling around the garage or basement on concrete.

If you have any formal racing aspirations I would recommend a MM (mid mount) MR-02 and a good set of tires.

I like the AWD and it would be a pretty good choice for general all around fun, but they can get expensive especially if you want one to be competitive at the track, and they do break with hard driving. BTW Spoon you need to add the AWD to your list.

If the only place you have to drive is the street or parking lot you might want to start with an Overland, good prices and great all around fun but not a race car, and don’t throw away your Xmods.

Speaking of the little devil’s going from an Xmod to a Mini-Z is something like going from hot rods to the race track. Apples and oranges, much of what you learned hopping up Xmods is best temporarily forgotten when moving to a Mini-Z.
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Last edited by LBRC; 2006.07.07 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 2006.07.07, 10:30 PM   #8
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Good point. I think that's worth mentioning to a new driver. I'll include that in the next version.
oh, Spoon, i didn't mean to come off bossy hehe, i shouldn't have typed it incomplete like i did, i mean't I def should add lol

but yeah, it would be a good addition now that you mention it!

good short summary BTW.
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Old 2006.07.07, 10:37 PM   #9
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Apples and oranges, much of what you learned hopping up Xmods is best temporarily forgotten when moving to a Mini-Z.
boy, ain't that the truth! i've been helping a local kid out with his xmod by offering soldering services for these little upgrades and fixes he is doing to it. The info that is passed around about the xmods, like, the theories and ideas behind most of the 'performance' mods are way off base in many ways and should definitely be left to the AM crowd when any transition is made to mini-z.
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Old 2006.07.08, 06:58 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by builthatch
oh, Spoon, i didn't mean to come off bossy hehe, i shouldn't have typed it incomplete like i did, i mean't I def should add lol

but yeah, it would be a good addition now that you mention it!

good short summary BTW.
No sweat, I didn't even think twice about it. It's a good point to make.
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Old 2006.07.08, 11:54 AM   #11
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I came up to Mini-Z after Xmods as well, and I'm very happy with my Overland. Not sure if this was covered, but GET A HIGH QUALITY SCREW DRIVER! You will destroy all the hardware with that little one that comes with an Xmod. Mini-z's have tighter tolerances.
And if you go with an Overland, you can use Xmod lift kit tires for extra grip. Note: you may have to shave the wheel wells to make them fit.
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Old 2006.07.08, 12:03 PM   #12
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I came up to Mini-Z after Xmods as well, and I'm very happy with my Overland. Not sure if this was covered, but GET A HIGH QUALITY SCREW DRIVER! You will destroy all the hardware with that little one that comes with an Xmod. Mini-z's have tighter tolerances.
And if you go with an Overland, you can use Xmod lift kit tires for extra grip. Note: you may have to shave the wheel wells to make them fit.
i am not into xmods, however, i do use the xmods option tool kit for my mini-z and it's fabulous. i made the smallest driver of the three into a flat head for various tasks. the file, tweezers, drivers, reamers, etc all are great pieces for the price. the free spinning top is nice, and the plastic body is nice to prevent any rx signal shorting mistakes for rookies.
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Old 2006.07.08, 02:27 PM   #13
fastXracer24
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Hey thanks guys. I hope to get to know some of you guys as I experience
my mini-z. I have chosen to get a MR-02. I have a garage so I can drive it there. But unfortunately I don't have the money yet to get one. In the mean time I will read the forums and try to learn what these mini-zs are all about!
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