The Reflex spur's have very little cross section so the gear has less thickness or width than the dif balls do. You can actually make your own lightweight spurs minus the hokey LSD part with a piece of 200 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. Just sand the gears on both faces until all material other than the dif ball area has been removed. I have never found any loss of durability in the gears by doing this. If I am running anything other than a 70T I leave the gear a little thicker to absorb the torque increase.
The Reflex spur's have very little cross section so the gear has less thickness or width than the dif balls do. You can actually make your own lightweight spurs minus the hokey LSD part with a piece of 200 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. Just sand the gears on both faces until all material other than the dif ball area has been removed. I have never found any loss of durability in the gears by doing this. If I am running anything other than a 70T I leave the gear a little thicker to absorb the torque increase.
Hokey LSD part?... Hahaha... PN LSD has been my go to spur since 2010 I wouldn't necessarily call is hokey....hahaha
Grant, It's hokey in the sense that the every day driver wouldn't feel the benefit or any discernible difference between a standard 64p and an LSD 64p....at least that's the way I would read and understand that.
__________________
I wonder what rocket scientists say to their coworkers when one of them doesn't get it?
Today I tried a slightly thicker Tamiya silver 2mm e-clip, it cleans up a lot of the slop & does not seem to inhibit smooth, consistent diff operation ..... seems like a winner
Grant, It's hokey in the sense that the every day driver wouldn't feel the benefit or any discernible difference between a standard 64p and an LSD 64p....at least that's the way I would read and understand that.
Well put Cowboy. Thanks. In truth I still run them in one class for the additional loss of rotating mass but I install it backwards so it can't lock. It has proven to be a very durable part.
I am also using the PN LSD spur gear and found that it is easy to get dust stick on diff ball and need to rebuild. The diff ball hole on this gear move outward on the spur gear and the diff disc can only cover half of diff ball. Is there any way to reduce dust from getting into the ball diff? Thanks.
It has been awhile for this thread. I just got one of these for the first time, and admit I am confused. Does the narrower opening point towards the front of the car? It seems I should be able to figure it out, but it gets turned around in my head. Also, here is the info from Kenon's site:
Option 1 Limited Slip holes 6 balls
Option 2 Regular ball holes 6 balls
Option 3 all 12 bllas installed. (Anyone know if this is Effective? Is there a reason to run 12 balls?)
Save grease V Grooves. (What does this mean?)
Thanks for the help sometimes PNs set up info is a bit cyptic.
I run my PN LSD gear with the stamped gear# (52, 53, etc) facing out towards the wheel/tire as opposed to facing in towards the adjuster nut. I also run 6 balls in the oblong holes using Kyosho High Durability Diff Grease pt#KYO96510. This was the recommended method from PN when I built my first 64p ball diff. Hope this helps.
I run my PN LSD gear with the stamped gear# (52, 53, etc) facing out towards the wheel/tire as opposed to facing in towards the adjuster nut. I also run 6 balls in the oblong holes using Kyosho High Durability Diff Grease pt#KYO96510. This was the recommended method from PN when I built my first 64p ball diff. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the help Bobby, my other normal PN spurs are as you describe, and the numbers go out and the larger lip goes to the inside. This spur has no numbers (that I've found yet at least) and there is the same lip on both sides. I usually run my diffs dry, but I might give the diff grease you mentioned a try. We are hoping to run a long day on Sunday and finish up the last 2 tracks of HFAY.
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