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Old 2008.11.12, 02:20 PM   #46
tudor_47
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I will offer you a different approach to the knuckles and tie rods,
use aluminum knuckles and a M2 "thread cutter" I do not have the correct english term for it now... anyway it is a small tool used to cut the threads on a screw. to make a M2 thread on the pin on the knuckle
This way you can secure the tie rod using a normal wheel lock nut. and it is easy to remove aswell. This is a easy thing to do and it is well worth the effort as the tie rods might need to come of a few times to get the correct front wheel toe.


with regards to the assembly instruction I do not think such exists....

And as Christian said we will all help out as best we can through this media.
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Old 2008.11.12, 02:33 PM   #47
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Using a die to cut threads is not as practical as using the "press-on" nuts. We have tried both and there simple is not enough material to thread a proper 2mm thread on the knuckle ( when rods are threaded they are 2.2mm in order to provide a good thread for a 2mm nut) so you end up with loose wheelnuts on the knuckles that rattle off quite often. This was the case with the TGR Sinister. Plus, by pressing plastic nuts on, you don't damage your knuckles and can still use them on your MR-02s!
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Old 2008.11.12, 05:47 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The car is very self explanatory Mike. Anything specifically you need to know, just ask away here

Here are some tips:
To install the motor, remove the left side of the motor pod. To secure the front tie rods, use a 2mm drill bit on some kyosho plastic wheelnuts and press them onto the knuckle steering pins. Apply a tiny drop of CA to keep them in place.

There really is not anything that can't be assembled by simply putting it together.
You're right. it is. The area that seems to not be right at least to me is attaching the motor pod to the chassis itself. No matter how I hold the pod it just doesn't seem to be the way it hooks up.
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Old 2008.11.13, 12:59 AM   #49
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mleemor60:
The motorpod is attached in the front 2 holes on the motorpod, the aluminium parts of it, if there still is a piece of T-bar sticking out of the motorpod it needs to be cut along the front of the 2 aluminium pieces that make up the left and right side of the motorpod.

The remaining t-bar that goes undernieth the motorpod is then positioned above the bottom of the chassies and the motorpod is attached from bottom using 2 countersunk screws that goes through the carbon and the t-bar into the aluminium of the motorpod.

I have put a picture of my P28 with the motorpod attached in my album, showing the underside of the chassies and motorpod to illustrate the text. check the album "P28"
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Last edited by tudor_47; 2008.11.13 at 04:04 AM.
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Old 2008.11.13, 07:54 AM   #50
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That is the shot I was looking for. It helps immensely with a starting point.
Thanks a lot
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Old 2009.03.23, 09:53 AM   #51
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What ever happened to the magazine reviews?
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Old 2009.03.23, 11:48 AM   #52
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Still working on it. Getting products reviewed in a major publication isn't very easy...
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Old 2009.03.23, 04:16 PM   #53
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^ True that. RCDriver hasn't gotten back to me in a while either.

Do you think they'll have our cars reviewed head-to-head eventually?
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Old 2009.04.07, 10:38 AM   #54
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Hi at all the racers,i've a question for all users of P28.
How did you can put the atomic servo saver RC18T on the servo S3154 ?
My problem is the pinion of the servo is to smaller for the servo saver.
In the album of tudor 47 there is a s3154 with the atomic servo saver...
Thanks for your answer.
Excuse my very bad english.

CORDIALEMENT,

CHABERT CHRISTIAN from FRANCE.
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Old 2009.04.07, 01:37 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chabou View Post
Hi at all the racers,i've a question for all users of P28.
How did you can put the atomic servo saver RC18T on the servo S3154 ?
My problem is the pinion of the servo is to smaller for the servo saver.
In the album of tudor 47 there is a s3154 with the atomic servo saver...
Thanks for your answer.
Excuse my very bad english.

CORDIALEMENT,

CHABERT CHRISTIAN from FRANCE.
HI
To get the servo saver onto the s3154 servo you will need to modify one of the original servo arms in the following way:
cut of the actual arm and then make sure that the outer diameter of the remaining servo arm(the part that fits the servo) is big/small enough to get into the servo saver.
Connect power to the servo to get it to centre and then put the original servo arm on the servo axle and then glue the servo saver part onto the servo arm, you should at this time insert some washers in the bottom of the servo saver as it i deeper than the white servo arm is tall.

when done the white servo arm will fit inside the black servo saver and the servo saver will now fit the servo axle perfectly...

I hope this makes sence!
/Johnny
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Old 2009.04.07, 03:57 PM   #56
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Thanks TUDOR 47 for your answer,i did it and it's perfect.

CORDIALEMENT,

CHABERT CHRISTIAN FROM FRANCE
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Old 2009.04.10, 01:25 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Using a die to cut threads is not as practical as using the "press-on" nuts. We have tried both and there simple is not enough material to thread a proper 2mm thread on the knuckle ( when rods are threaded they are 2.2mm in order to provide a good thread for a 2mm nut) so you end up with loose wheelnuts on the knuckles that rattle off quite often.
I have now been runningmy P28 for 6 months twice a week (atleast) and I have broken a servo and several bodies but the nuts on my steering is still firmly in place, they have been off the knuckles many times to set toe and it is still working perfectly. so using a threaded knuckle is a very good approach.
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