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Old 2018.11.28, 12:49 PM   #1
sake138
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new setup

okay so i just got my mr03 and I'm looking to do a few upgrades to run in stock class. hobby shop is setting up a rcp track now. I have tires and t plate on the way. Anything else i should look into?
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Old 2018.11.28, 01:24 PM   #2
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What are the rules, if any one what it permitted?

For stock, the basics would be bearings, tires really. Lock nuts, alloy 4th steering gear, CF t plate are a bonus but not required. My stock class car for our club racing still retains all the stock plastic bits except for nuts, bearings and specified 70T motor and a solid B main placement (top 1/4).
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Old 2018.11.28, 01:28 PM   #3
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as of now looking like stock class. I'm new to mini z and I'm going to be helping set up. I use to do 1/18th and still do 1/8th. currently have everything you listed in my cart minus the 70t motor.
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Old 2018.11.28, 01:43 PM   #4
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I would keep the stock motor the way it is, until you figure out exactly what the class rules will be. Just gear up to an 8 or 9t pinion depending on the track size and what regulations are in place for gearing.

Depending on body, I would get an MM2 mount. Some Kyosho 15k and 30k grease for the differential internals, kingpins and dampers to calm the car. MM2 is compatible with many 94-98mm bodies, and includes a disc damper. If the class permits aftermarket disc dampers, you might want to consider one instead.

Other than that, its more about ensuring that everything is fit together as well as it can be, with no binding and proper tolerances. Often the rear left wheel adapter needs to be sanded .2-.5mm where it touches the bearing to allow the rear left wheel to be tightened fully.

If your knuckles start binding, you can flip the kingpins, so the kingpin travels with the knuckle. You can just clip the tip after its flipped to increase ground clearance. This alone will also calm the front end marginally.

Most important would be to get a variety of tires at first, to see what works best. For stock motors, try the PN Soft or Kyosho 20d radial in the rear, and a PN firm or medium front or Kyosho 30. There are a few variants of the Kyosho 30, and each has a different grip characteristic. Tires are 80-90% of the setup once everything is working properly in the car (no binding and properly dampened).
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Old 2018.11.28, 01:52 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info. The owner is setting up now and asked for me to set up the stock class for now and then go from there.
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Old 2018.11.28, 02:27 PM   #6
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Our club moved to 70t motor simply because 8-10 minutes Main was causing issues with sports, sports 2 series cars. 70t is the next slowest motor that runs a lot cooler than the Kyosho Stock motor. You can check out the Washington DC gtg sub form for our stock class rules. They have a proven success in a club and retail store after many years of fine tuning. You can take or leave the motor change. Just suggesting... find what works best for your group with least investment necessary.
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Old 2018.11.28, 03:15 PM   #7
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The Kyosho stock class, is one of the best forms of RC racing in any scale. The PN 70t motor is not necessarily faster, but does run cooler as arch said. One issue with it is that the bearing holder on the shaft side is marginally larger than the Kyosho motor, so the gear adjustment shim needs to be reamed out on the inside. And on some motors, the bearing/bushing protrudes further towards the pinion, and the mount needs a little clearancing as well for a full seat. Otherwise, it is a better option to the Kyosho for longevity of racing.
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Old 2018.11.28, 03:39 PM   #8
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Important to properly clearance the spacer of the LM with a 70T. Otherwise it tends to make the pod easier to break.
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Old 2018.11.28, 04:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arch2b View Post
Important to properly clearance the spacer of the LM with a 70T. Otherwise it tends to make the pod easier to break.
Byebye had issues putting his bushing 70t motor in the mount, I had to dremel the mount for it to sit fully right where the axle bushing is. The bushing was hitting the mount and not allowing it to sit inside the mount, but at an angle. This change removed some of the binding he had in the motor, and with a 9t pinion instead of the 8t, had him come up to speed where before he was down on speed a bit due to poor gear mesh and too low of a gear.
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