2020.11.15, 10:15 AM
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#1
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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Vodafone Mercedes AMG GT3
Vodafone Mercedes AMG GT3
Materials:
Kyosho Mercedes AMG GT3 unpainted autoscale
Krylon Fusion Gloss Black
Krylon Fusion Gloss Popsicle Orange
Krylon Fusion Gloss Metallic Dark Copper
Molotow Liquid Chrome 2mm pen
Future Floor Polish
Pattos Vodafone No888A Bathurst12Hr 2019
Now that I've worked out how to the 'O' into paint well enough, I can adapt this to just about any color scheme. A good friend has team colors with Orange so worked this into a new color palette of Orange, Silver, Black for aero and a Bronze like color for trim. it may not be very evident at first but the front grille, lights, wheels, mirrors and wing stanchions are the dark Bronze. I like how this breaks up the black that would otherwise make the wheels visually disappear. I choose metallic Silver this time instead of the Chrome coat since the latter is so delicate. The metallic Silver however goes on VERY thin, almost like pouring water and created a bunch of leaks despite all the masking I did. To clean that up, I sprayed some of the paint on a board and brushed it on over the leaks and hopefully its not too visible a correction.
For the time being, I'm all out of this livery decals so it's on to the next one. I'll have to order a couple more later.
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2020.11.15, 10:21 AM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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In terms of process I'll show you how I take this livery.
1. base coat of color. I place the 'O' stencil on the base white.
2. the contrast color.
3. unwrap the present and hope for the best! You can see some of the paint bleed at the front end.
Last is to mask off or brush on the black trim. for vents, etc. I brush the paint on. For large surfaces that are easy to mask, I'll mask those off and spray on.
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2020.11.15, 02:27 PM
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#3
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bitPimp
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 668
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Amazing. You're not cutting masks on the car, are you? How often do you change your Xacto blade? I think maybe you missed your calling as a neurosurgeon.
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2020.11.15, 02:52 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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I have cut stencils on the body before. These, no. I lay them out, create the stencil, cut on a cutting mat and place on the body. Yes, I go thru a ton of xacto #11 blades. I bought a couple boxes of 100 a couple years back on eBay for a great price and burning thru those still.
The Washington Football team logo was by far the hardest stencil I've ever done on body.
The most tedious has actually been lettering on timing bridges. each letter by itself is not terrible but when you've got 10 down and 30 to go, it can get tiring.
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2020.11.15, 05:10 PM
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#5
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bitPimp
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 668
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So how do you pre-cut details like the outline around the headlight, or the ducting in the rear bumper? Just multiple small bits? I sometimes do a thing where I apply the masking tape, burnish the edge with a toothpick, remove it, trim at the burnish mark, re-apply to car.
Also, are you applying Future pre or post decal? Or both? And you're applying that with a brush, right?
Sorry for all the questions, I've just been trying to up my mask game, and about to dig into a drawer full of white bodies.
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2020.11.15, 05:29 PM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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The accent line on the headlight lens is hand drawn with the Molotow pen.
The ducting on the rear was done using a couple straight strips to get the lines I want and adequate coverage. If I want to contour with Tamiya yellow tape I cut about 2mm strips and then overlap mask over that. The Tamiya white tape is so easy to make curves but I have to rip it off so as not to take paint with it.
I brush Future on with cheap Testors paint brushes at the very end. The model pro's air brush it on but I find it goes on just as well by brush. I like to wait at least half a day before coats and never more than 3 or it can start to get hazy or lump up in places. It's really only there for minimal protection if racing as it's going to get banged up and if you shelf queen it, looks good and easy to wipe off finger prints.
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2020.11.18, 03:48 PM
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#7
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epic procrastinator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,216
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Great work...I especially like the use of Orange instead of the classic Vodaphone bright red.!
I've been trying to visualize how to do my own stencils but luckily I'm doing them for a large scale RC.
Do you lose much "tackiness" peeling/moving your stencil from your hobby mat and placing on the body?
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2020.11.18, 03:58 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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Only real issue I have is the cutting mat has been cut so many times, micro flakes of the mat stick to the tape. The mat is about 20 years old though...
Bought it my first year in college for studio design courses. Before I start a new set of stencils, I scrape the mat clean as much as practical. No real issue with loosing tackiness if your only transferring once or twice. The harder part at times is peeling up a stencil in a way that doesn't deform the stencil.
Last edited by arch2b; 2020.11.18 at 04:36 PM.
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2020.11.18, 07:40 PM
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#9
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bitPimp
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 668
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Ever try using a piece of glass to cut on? A long time ago I used to cut Rubylith masks for printing and silkscreening, and cutting on glass (the light table) was always the cleanest.
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2020.11.19, 02:28 PM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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Would not the glass dull the blade far faster?
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2020.11.19, 02:40 PM
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#11
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bitPimp
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 668
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Hard to say. With a cutting mat, there's that grey area between pushing hard enough to cut the thing you're cutting, but not breaking the "surface tension" of the mat, vs. pushing hard enough that you're slicing through the sliceable part of the mat. With glass, you get a feel for the resistance, and you don't push as hard.
I also find I break fewer tips with glass than cutting mat. Sometimes with a mat, I'll have a brand-new blade, and on the 2nd or 3rd cut, the tip will get stuck and break off.
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2020.11.28, 08:52 PM
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#12
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Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 35,480
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I did re-order this livery decal set and just waiting for them to arrive sometime in the next week or two. I am really contemplating doing a Black/Silver combo. Torn really. I like the idea of Ice Grape/Silver, or Lagoon Blue/Silver. I love the Jungle Green/Silver but I've been using Jungle Green a lot lately. I'd love to do a Grey tone adaptation with Black/Vintage Grey in which the White graphics would I think compliment it well. If I had thought that one through to the end, I could have had all the deals Grey tone as well to take out all the color.
I use Red Pepper, Popsicle Orange and Jungle Green a lot and have never used Ice Grape or Lagoon Blue yet.
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