2014.01.16, 02:27 PM
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#1
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VE7FM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 629
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MA-010/MA-015 to MA-020 upgrade
Just wanted to let everyone know upgrading to the MA-020 front end isn't tough at all. To do it you will need the following parts:
MD201 Main Chassis Set
MD202 Front Suspension Arm Set
MD203 Front Upper Cover Bulk Set
MD204 Front Suspension Shaft Set
MD205 long axles (only required for wide front end)
You will also need 4 flat head screws and a set of mr03 front springs.
The MA-020 supports narrow and wide front ends just like the mr03. The chassis parts for both are included in the parts above. However to build a wide setup you will need longer axles (MD205). The standard MA-010/MA-015 front end is narrow and is made wide with huge offset wheels, with a proper wide front end huge offset wheels will no longer be needed.
EDIT:
I have now found a part # for the official front spring kit for the MA-020, it is MDW201
The MR03 springs do seem to work fine but might be a little bit long.(I am using the shorter/softer series already anyway)
Last edited by TheSteve; 2014.01.29 at 05:50 PM.
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2014.01.16, 08:29 PM
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#2
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MINI-Z BODY NUT
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: pa.
Posts: 5,028
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Thanks for info. I think i have those parts comming. So the chassis is different than old one? Did you run it yet?
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MINI-Z BODY NUT
DG DESIGNS - PN RACING - MANTISWORX
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2014.01.16, 09:58 PM
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#3
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VE7FM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 629
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Yes, the main chassis must be replaced, it is quite different in the front area. I did some test laps last night, will probably do more this evening. So far I like the feel of it but it really needs some damping. I was pondering the Kyosho inner tube shocks but they technically need custom arms, not sure if I could mod the ma-020 ones to work. The increased camber with suspension compression should be a wonderful thing in corners.
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2014.01.16, 11:02 PM
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#4
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VE7FM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 629
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Just did 200 laps of my test track. The front end is very smooth so far, I am liking it. My all time best with this car is a 6.10 seconds, a lap which was as close to perfect as I thought I could get with this car. Without any real tuning and just tossing it on track I got down to a 6.14 with the new front end. At this point I'd say that is a success as I know a little tuning will bring the lap times down further, maybe even below the magic 6 second mark.
For reference this car is 90mm narrow running an xspeed motor with the DS3 body. The fastest lap with a 90mm narrow HM mr03 with stock motor is 6.54. The fastest 98mm wide awd car lap is 5.62, fastest mr03VE lap is 5.56.
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2014.01.17, 07:29 PM
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#5
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MINI-Z BODY NUT
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: pa.
Posts: 5,028
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Thanks for update....just need the parts.
__________________
MINI-Z BODY NUT
DG DESIGNS - PN RACING - MANTISWORX
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2014.01.18, 01:42 AM
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#6
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VE7FM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 629
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Did a little tuning to the front and back of the car, went from a best lap of 6.10 to 5.93. This front end is much smoother and more consistent in the turns. Lowering it as much as I want is the biggest problem, I need shorter springs so they don't have as much preload on them.
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2014.01.18, 05:41 PM
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#7
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epic procrastinator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,216
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would you say someone who isnt really an AWD person (ie:me ) would enjoy driving this more than previous iterations? I'm on the fence right now and thinking of keeping all my AWD stuff to try one last time...
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2014.01.18, 07:14 PM
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#8
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VE7FM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 629
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Hard to say really. The AWD can be such a miserable car to drive. If you find a good setup though they are quite amazing. My primary awd converted to brushless is still my favorite MiniZ. I don't think this front end is a game changer for the awd, if you didn't like it before you probably still won't. The servo will never be as precise as an mr03 and if not tuned right the front end pulls something fierce over any and all bumps which can make it nearly impossible to drive(and enjoy). The real key is to use a gear diff in the front, no lube at all, it needs to be very free. A ball diff or 1way ruins the awd experience. Second is the rear suspension must be DWS or Atomic SAS, the stock original awd suspension was terrible. Third is the entire drive train must be very free, the car should easily coast.
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2014.01.18, 07:19 PM
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#9
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epic procrastinator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,216
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I'm going to make the attempt...it can't hurt since it's a minimal investment to try something different. It could be the game changer for me.
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2014.01.18, 08:09 PM
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#10
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VE7FM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 629
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Once you get the parts you should head down here for a day(it is a long drive I know) and we'll do some tuning of your fleet. I'm nice and close to the Langley Costco and lots of other shopping so your wife can stay busy
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2014.01.18, 09:20 PM
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#11
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epic procrastinator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Whistler, B.C.
Posts: 2,216
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Ill likely pick your brain once it gets assembled...I finally convinced the wife to let me set up track in the living room and I can now build either 30 or 50cm so I can get practice for both gtg here or Surrey.
No doubt I'd love to lap at your house though...it'd be more likely once the winter is over.
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2014.01.18, 09:54 PM
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#12
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MINI-Z BODY NUT
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: pa.
Posts: 5,028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSteve
Hard to say really. The AWD can be such a miserable car to drive. If you find a good setup though they are quite amazing. My primary awd converted to brushless is still my favorite MiniZ. I don't think this front end is a game changer for the awd, if you didn't like it before you probably still won't. The servo will never be as precise as an mr03 and if not tuned right the front end pulls something fierce over any and all bumps which can make it nearly impossible to drive(and enjoy). The real key is to use a gear diff in the front, no lube at all, it needs to be very free. A ball diff or 1way ruins the awd experience. Second is the rear suspension must be DWS or Atomic SAS, the stock original awd suspension was terrible. Third is the entire drive train must be very free, the car should easily coast.
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So gear diff in front. Im assuming, ball diff in rear?
__________________
MINI-Z BODY NUT
DG DESIGNS - PN RACING - MANTISWORX
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2014.01.18, 10:38 PM
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#13
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VE7FM
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lfisminiz
So gear diff in front. Im assuming, ball diff in rear?
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Yes Sir.
You want to use the hardened buggy gear diff in the front, part # MBW002.
In the rear I use the buggy ball diff, part # MBW028.
I have added a proper thrust bearing to the ball diff and it has lasted countless hours of running with a brushless motor. You can even use the original gear diff in the front or rear of the AWD but they break very easily, especially with a good motor or impacts. I have yet to kill the hardened diff in the front as it has metal spider gears, the ball diff in the back can slip a little during heavy impacts.
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2014.01.18, 11:18 PM
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#14
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MINI-Z BODY NUT
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: pa.
Posts: 5,028
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Thanks for info. Want to rebuild mine over the winter.
__________________
MINI-Z BODY NUT
DG DESIGNS - PN RACING - MANTISWORX
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2014.01.29, 02:18 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSteve
The real key is to use a gear diff in the front, no lube at all, it needs to be very free. A ball diff or 1way ruins the awd experience. Second is the rear suspension must be DWS or Atomic SAS, the stock original awd suspension was terrible. Third is the entire drive train must be very free, the car should easily coast.
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That's very interesting... is this just critical for high-power setups?
My MA-010 is set up with stock sliding suspension front and rear with stock springs, very loose ball diffs at both ends (both will slip if motor is gunned while holding the wheels), it is 90mm wheelbase with 0-offset narrows all around, but with a slow PN 70T. Kyosho 30* slicks in the back with Atomic 40* slicks in the front and it was very well-behaved at the last meet (for the first time with this body). I have a Buggy hard diff lying around, but the ball diff feels well enough for me and maybe it's just that sub-optimal setup is less catastrophic at low power levels? Maybe you could have a look at it on the bench, take it for a spin and let me know what you think.
I always felt the S15 body was terrible for racing, but I think I finally got a non-roll-happy setup for this 70T AWD and my 60T MR-02, and the ultra-narrow body is advantageous in tight twisties.
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